Sunday, June 28, 2009
SUMMER SCHOOL FOR GARDENERS!
Monday, June 15, 2009
'Corliss Clips' ... Summer '09


Corliss Clips
Summer 2009
A collection of seasonal articles...
offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert
"REMODELING OUTDOOR ROOMS"
by Deb Lambert
By now, I’m sure you’re familiar with the term “garden rooms.” This is simply a way of dividing the home landscape into a series of outdoor living spaces. Although these areas, or “rooms,” may serve distinctly different purposes, there needs to be a “flow” between these spaces, along with gentle transitions. You may decide upon a unifying theme, such as country informality or classically formal; however, the delightful fact remains that it needn’t be just one thing or the other. It is entirely appropriate to indulge yourself by pursuing several favorite design schemes, within the landscape, and rooms make it possible.
As with any landscape project, and maybe more so with this one, it’s important to start with a plan. Consult with the family, before putting pen to paper, so everyone has a “say” in the proposed use, arrangement and style of the various rooms. Play or sports areas, swimming pools, garden ponds, decks and patios are some of the manmade features that either exist, or are in the planning stages. The same is true for vegetable plots, backyard orchards, dedicated rose beds and butterfly gardens. These, too, may be features already present, or still in the talking/planning stage.
Existing hardscaping (walks, walls, arbors, etc.) may be something you work around, “tweak” to fit the “new look” or change completely. Lastly, natural features, like areas of ledge, protected wetlands or a magnificent stand of hardwood trees, are “givens” that will greatly effect the overall plan. With other “givens,” there may be a bit more flexibility. While shade cast by buildings is a permanent feature, shade from your own trees is a more fluid thing... removing lower limbs and/or judicious thinning, can result in much-needed direct sun or, perhaps, lighter shade.
Topography, or the “lay of the land,” is pretty basic. “It is what it is,” with certain exceptions... we can affect change by terracing hillsides, digging down to accommodate garden ponds or adding soil to ledge crevices, for the cultivation of suitable rock garden plants. Soil type is another somewhat flexible “given.” Clay or sandy soils can can be improved and sometimes varied enough, with additives (compost, peat, gypsum or sand, depending on soil type), to support desired plants.
Few of us are fortunate enough to be starting with a clean palette, when it’s time to “paint “ a new landscape picture. Let’s face it, we call it “remodeling” when we make improvements in an older house. When we make significant changes and improvements in the surrounding landscape, we could reasonably refer to this process as remodeling, as well. Just because an existing landscape is a rather haphazard arrangement of separate areas, doesn’t make them any less important. What it does mean, is that it’s time for a landscape review that reexamines and rates the importance or necessity of these areas.
Camouflaging less attractive features, highlighting the best of what exists, softening hard lines, incorporating new spaces and doing all this with an eye toward the cohesiveness of the whole picture, takes creativity and more careful planning than that required for the “blank slate.” But, it’s a challenge and one most gardeners embrace, as they design their ideal outdoor living space. It is time to at least start thinking about remodeling outdoor rooms.
Once you’ve determined what stays and what goes, you’re ready for the add-ins. Whether planting to screen and beautify an existing pool area, or trying to make the compost pile less of a focal point, most of us are impatient to implement proposed new features... perhaps a cutting garden, bird sanctuary, grape arbor with seats, chef’s gourmet garden, goldfish pond that attracts frogs and turtles, a shady reading nook or contemplative oriental garden. Focus on what’s most important and be realistic about available space.
Be aware that pathway layout is the primary way we move visitors through the landscape. Having a path disappear around the “walls” or enclosure of a garden room, leads the naturally curious around the corner. Add to this the sound of a gurgling fountain, chattering birds as they bathe, the incredible fragrance of David Austin English roses, the coolness of a shaded bower or a glimpse of precisely clipped boxwood walls... all enticements that combine to lure even the least curious visitor to enjoy every aspect of your landscape.
While we New Englanders are resigned to about six months of no foliage on our deciduous plant specimens, we certainly strive to make the most of the growing season. Color is a relatively accessible element, as we “paint” the walls of garden rooms or the structures, within. Climbing roses will readily arch over the “doorway” of a wooden arbor. Certain climbing roses, as well as some taller English rose varieties, lend themselves to pillar culture (an old-fashioned practice that deserves renewed attention)... A pair of pillared roses will effectively frame a garden room entrance.
Climbing vines, like clematis, honeysuckle (Lonicera), wisteria, trumpet vine (Campsis) and Silverlace vine (Polygonum) are all suitable candidates to flow across arbors, creating shade and abundant colorful blossoms, some of which offer a nectar source for butterflies and hummingbirds - yet another source of color and entertainment! Of course, annuals and perennials offer armloads of colorful spring and summer blooms, making them ideal for inclusion in a cutting garden. Surrounding such a garden with a blue-green wall of “blue” hollies (Ilex meserveae) presents the perfect backdrop for these flowering plants. This same area goes on to become a wonderful winter feature. Just be sure to include several male plants to cross-pollinate the female hollies; that is, if you want those red berries!
Many of the Japanese holly varieties (Ilex crenata) are ideal as low edging or medium hedges, to encircle a garden room. They are of tidy habit and a minimum of pruning will keep them looking crisp enough for even a formal treatment. Common boxwood (Buxus sempervirens, to 15’ high) and columnar boxwood (B. sempervirens ‘Fastigiata’ , much narrower, to 12’ high) are ideal where higher walls are needed. These dark green, broadleaf evergreens tolerate shearing and remain a constant in the winter garden.
Sometimes, especially for informal settings, one need only hint at a “wall” for the garden room. A well-placed trellis, low fieldstone wall, a line of ornamental grasses or wide perennial border will do quite nicely. For a sumptuous, old-fashioned dividing wall, choose from Hydrangeas that range from the four-foot ‘Annabelle’ (H. arborescens), ‘Big Daddy’ and ‘Endless Summer’ (both H. macrophylla), to the 6-8’ ‘Pink Diamond’ and ‘Limelight’ or the 10’ ‘Tardiva’ (all H. paniculata varieties). An existing fence may form one wall of a room, as might an existing hedge. Easy-care landscape roses are another alternative.
A few well-placed butterfly bushes (Buddleia) will keep these beauties busy, summer through early fall. As a supplement to plants that attract birds and butterflies, offer a clean source of water, mount nesting and roosting boxes, hummingbird nectar feeders, butterfly boxes and offer a small, but constant, supply of wild bird food. Not only will birds add beauty and song, but they’ll stay around to control garden insects.
Remember the cooling, soothing sound effects of rustling ornamental grasses and tinkling wind chimes, as you furnish those garden rooms. Consider the subtle hues of wood, stone, brick, pavers and bark mulch as you balance complementary and contrasting blossom colors. A large grape-covered arbor is a room, by itself... a cool, shaded retreat which, with a little pruning, provides grapes for snacking. Have fun remodeling those rooms!
Staff Photos ©CBI 2009
Text ©CBI/DJL 2009
Friday, May 1, 2009
'Corliss Clips'... May 2009
May 2009..... Vol. 7, No. 5
A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert
• Lawns can still be established, although delaying too long means ever-increasing competition, as weed seeds germinate. Select a high-phosphorus fertilizer, to stimulate strong root production, for seed or sod lawns.
• Because the cold, wet spring should delay crabgrass seed germination, you can apply crabgrass preventative until mid-May (at the latest) and still have a good result. Be sure to choose the product appropriate to your situation, be it a new or established lawn.
• Products containing corn gluten will halt seed germination organically, in lawn and garden areas. Just remember that this is a non-selective solution - not to be used when seeding (check labels for time delays... example - apply now, seed in the fall).
• Contact-kill broadleaf and vining weeds with liquid or granular controls. Many of the granular products include a high-nitrogen lawn food. If weeds are not too prolific, dig them out, before they produce more seed... maybe the family will help(?)!
• May is ideal for a second application of high-nitrogen lawn food. Explore all the options. Usually, longer-lasting organic foods are applied less often, negating concern over slightly higher price points. Feeding the lawn by nourishing the soil makes sense!
• As soils finally warm, apply Milky Spore Disease (Bacillus thuringiensis or “B.t.”) for long-term Japanese Beetle control, following reapplication schedules.
• Soil preparation for flower and vegetable gardens should include organic granular fertilizer, rock phosphate (or superphosphate, 0-20-0) and pelletized lime, worked into the soil at the rate of 5# of each per 100 square feet. Add dehydrated cow manure at 25# per 100 square feet and generous amounts of peat or compost, for moisture retention and improved soil structure. Add garden gypsum to improve heavy clay soils.
• Asparagus beds are established now, with organic granular fertilizer and plenty of organic material, employing the trench-method.
• Cool-weather crops, seed potatoes and onion sets are planted early in the month.
• Carrots, beets and other root crops are sown, early to mid-May. With a safe frost date of Memorial Day, May 15 is the earliest date for planting such tender crops as beans. Most flower and vegetable seedlings, once hardened-off, are set out closer to May 30. Look into such devices as spun row covers, to extend the growing season.
• Explore the incorporation of organics and safer control measures, into your home gardening program. Keep an open mind, when reviewing new research which indicates that we may be guilty of over-cultivation (especially rototilling), destroying naturally-occuring bacteria and mycorrhizal fungi, integral soil-building components. As we become wiser and better-informed about the health of this planet, we begin to alter the way we’ve always done things - it’s an exciting time to be a gardener!
• Small fruits, such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, grapes and rhubarb can be successfully established anytime now. Don’t skimp on organics, like compost!
• Add beauty and food to the home landscape with fruit trees. Dwarf and semi-dwarf specimens are perfectly scaled for backyard culture, making maintenance and harvesting much easier tasks. Many require another variety for cross-pollination.
• Pruning, not shearing, of needled evergreens can be done now, to take advantage of the spring growth flush. Otherwise, wait until new growth hardens-off, in late July.
• Rhododendrons, azaleas and other flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon as blossoms fade, since next year’s buds are set about six weeks after flowering. Fertilize at the same time, to encourage heavier flower set for next season.
• Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs should be fed as soon as flowers fade, while foliage is intact, to strengthen bulbs for next year.
• Feed your landscape with the appropriate fertilizers. Good organic or highly organic blends are offered by the Espoma Company... Plant-tone® (general-purpose) and Holly-tone® (for acid-tolerant species) are two popular choices. Supplement with superphosphate or rock phosphate, for all flowering and fruiting plants. Be sure the soil pH is optimum for the plants you cultivate and adjust with lime to raise the pH, or with an acidifier (aluminum sulfate, garden sulfur, cottonseed meal, etc.) to lower the pH, as needed.
• Keep young pines more compact by cutting “candles” halfway back.
• Winter moth, cankerworm, gypsy moth, birchleaf miner and Asiatic lily beetle are some of the early-season pests that need addressing... check with staff for safest control options.
• Freshen up planting beds with a top-dressing of new bark mulch or compost - not deeper than 2-3”, total. Keep mulch from contacting stems, trunks and branches.
• Resist the impulse to bring home lots of new plant specimens, unless, of course, you’re working from a practical plan. Such plans must take into consideration all the “givens” within your home landscape. Ask questions and do a little research, before finalizing your plant choices. You’ll save time, effort and money with proper planning.
• Consider adding a new focal point to an established garden. An arbor, with or without benches, is the perfect way to introduce a cozy, “garden room” feel, especially when covered with the abundant fragrant blossoms of a climbing rose.
MOTHER'S DAY...for gardening moms!
Mother’s Day is a great time for living gifts. Trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, annuals, herbs and hanging baskets are just some of the choices. Garden ornamentation, like statues, birdbaths and benches are ideal for gifting. Garden books, wildlife guides, garden tools, decorative pots, watering cans and wonderful gardener gifts await your selection... Corliss Bros. gift certificates can be ordered by phone (978-356-7284) and are a thoughtful option for experienced gardeners, who wish to make their own selection.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
'Corliss Clips' ... April 2009
April 2009..... Vol. 7, No. 4
A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert
"THE CORLISS GARDEN SHOW"
WITH DEB LAMBERT?
What do you get when you combine an Ipswich Garden Center, Newburyport radio station and a Yankee gardener? “The Corliss Garden Show" with Deb Lambert, presented Sunday mornings from 8-10a, on WNBP, AM 1450. Yes, garden talk is alive and well and, starting on March 29th, local.
In uncertain times, folks take great comfort in hearth and home and, of course, in their gardens. Gardens provide sanctuary from the world’s cares, as well as a place to grow one’s own food. Always a popular topic, gardening is experiencing a phenomenal rise in popularity, once again. And here, on the North Shore, gardeners have long preferred to remain loyal to local merchants and services. Which is why, adding a local radio component makes perfect sense.
Call 978-462-WNBP (9627), on any given Sunday, and receive thorough, in-depth answers to your garden questions. Timely tips, product recommendations and general advice... all based on a shared concern for this North Shore environment. Garden conversation is not a lost art, as you’ll discover Sunday mornings, from 8-10a, when you tune in to “The Corliss Garden Show" with Deb Lambert on WNBP, 1450 on your AM dial.
Hamamelis x intermedia ‘DIANE’ (Diane Witchhazel) 10-12’H x 10-12’W. Lightly scented copper-red flowers emerge in late winter. Yellow-orange-red fall foliage.

Azalea mucronulatum (Manchurian Azalea) 6’H x 5-6’W. Bright lilac-pink flowers before foliage emerges.
Magnolia stellata ‘ROYAL STAR’ (Royal Star Magnolia) 10-20’H x 10-15’W. Light pink or white buds open to white, double flowers with 25-30 petals. Fragrant. Upright, densely branched. Shrubby when young. Rounded habit. Hardy.
Magnolia loebneri ‘LEONARD MESSEL’ (Leonard Messel Magnolia) 15-20’H x 20-25’W. Pink buds opening to showy fuschia pink star-like flowers. Upright branching, rounded outline.
Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia) 10-20’H x 10-15’W. Slow grower, broad, shrubby habit. Fragrant star-shaped white flowers. Long lasting blooms in early spring. Sun or part shade.
SUBHIRTELLA ‘PENDULA’ (Weeping Higan Cherry) 20-25’H x 15-20’W. Impressive in bloom with large double pink flowers arranged in clusters. Mounding pendulous branches. Can be maintained as a smaller tree with regular pruning of upright shoots. Does best in a fertile, well drained soil. Top grafted.
Pieris Dorothy Wycoff 5-6’H x 4-6’W. Deep pink buds during winter. Blush pink to white flowers in spring. Compact.
Pieris Cavantine 3-4’H x 3-4’W. Unusual upright green buds which open to a white explosion of blooms. A dense butterball of dark green foliage. Tough and hardy. Does well in full sun.
Pieris Valley Valentine 5-6’H x 5-6’W. Deep red flower buds turn to deep pink flowers. Shiny, dark green foliage.
Echinacea 'Virgin' combines a very compact habit, double row of petals, sweet fragrance, and long bloomtime. Perfect for garden or vase. Although it's showy, it is a coneflower so it will take poor soil and drought conditions. This may be the ultimate white coneflower.• Time to clear away the ravages of winter and dive, head-first, into a brand new season of gardening. Hopefully, you’ve raked up last fall’s leaves and debris and swept up any lingering sand and road salt. Remember to apply garden gypsum (fall & spring) to these roadside areas (@10-15# per 100 sq.ft.) to mitigate salt damage.
• As soil dries sufficiently, rake lawns to remove thatch, make spring applications of lawn food, lime, gypsum and crabgrass preventatives, as needed. Choose from traditional “step” lawn programs and look into organic alternatives, as well. As soils warm, grass seed will readily germinate - try to establish early growth, before weeds start to compete. Be certain that any lawn products you apply will not disrupt germination. As always, consult the staff for recommendations. For large lawns, consider renting a power dethatcher, seed-slicer or aerator for optimum results. Lawn mowing should commence when blades are 2 1/2-3” high, removing 1/3 of the length with each cutting.
•Before new growth is initiated on large, overgrown rhododendrons or privet hedges, they can be pruned back into old wood, 1-2 feet from the ground. Always prune on a sharp diagonal angle, just above dormant buds. Combine this with an application of balanced organic fertilizer, such as Plant Tone®, and rock phosphate. These plants will respond with fresh, strong, new growth. Admittedly, patience is also necessary, while you wait for sizable plants; however, personal experience with such renewal pruning has made me unafraid to tackle such projects. Another option is the more measured approach of pruning back 1/3 of the growth, as soon as blooms have faded, over the course of three seasons. This allows a gradual renewal, the retention of some foliage and continued bloom. Be sure to feed these specimens also, to encourage re-growth.
•While tree wrap prevents winter sun-scald on tender, young trunks, leaving it on too long can be detrimental. Moisture becomes trapped beneath the wrap, leading to potential disease and borer problems.
•When pruning back dried perennial stems and cleaning the beds, pay special attention to iris. The eggs of iris borer overwinter in old foliage, so limit future infestation by proper disposal of this material.
•Do spread finished compost throughout the landscape, as an effective mulch or soil additive. Do recommence building and maintaining an active compost pile, for continued use during the growing season. (Never compost diseased plant portions.)Alternate layers of green, nitrogen-rich materials (such as grass clippings) with brown, carbon-rich items (like autumn leaves and perennial stalks). Sprinkle a little soil and lime between layers, employ a compost activator (I prefer Neptune’s Harvest Liquid Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer® - follow compost dilution) or sucrose-based activator. Add water, as needed, keeping in mind that sun, air and water are essential in the composting process. Periodically turning the pile, or installing perforated PVC pipe across the pile center, will keep your compost properly aerated. Do not compost diseased materials.
•Soil is the basic building block, the foundation upon which the successful landscape depends. Nourishing the soil with such additives as compost, leaf mold, peat humus, composted manure and organic fertilizers will introduce and help sustain healthy ratios of beneficial micro-organisms. The increased presence of earthworms is an indicator of your success in soil improvement. You should find a healthy population of worms wherever trowel meets soil...you’ll reap the further benefits of their castings and aeration. Professional or DIY soil tests will indicate where additional nutrients and lime are required. Garden gypsum and/or sand will help to improve soil drainage. Remember that cultivating or walking on overly-wet soil can destroy its structure.
•As soon as soil has dried sufficiently, till under winter rye planted last fall. In this way, there is time for it to break down as “green manure,” before this season’s vegetable crops are planted.
•Often, early to mid-April is ideal for planting garden peas and sweet peas - as long as soils have begun to warm and are not saturated. Usually, mid-April is also ideal for planting potato and onion sets... as before, use your judgement - this is New England!
•Seed starting continues, with fast-growing crops like tomatoes needing only 4-5 weeks before transplantation outdoors. May 30th is our traditional frost-free date, although hardiest vegetable and flower specimens are often planted around mid-May. Be sure to harden-off all seedlings by exposing them to increasing amounts of sun and wind, over the course of 7-10 days (watch night temperatures)... again, same advice as above! I still bear the scars of bedding plants, undergoing their hardening-off period one long-ago, mid-May, whose tops were severely nipped back by a late frost... beware!
•Plan a kitchen garden that includes a sampling of mixed greens, lettuce, cukes, tomatoes, herbs... it makes summer meal prep a breeze, with unsurpassable, just-picked flavor. If space permits, plan a formal herb garden... great visual impact, attractive to beneficial insects and a terrific culinary asset. If space doesn’t permit for either of these enterprises, a collection of attractive pots, located in full sun will serve. Use well-drained potting soil, feed every 10-14 days with liquid, organic fertilizer, water as needed and enjoy nature’s bounty well into the fall. Even decks, balconies, patios and hanging planters will expand the horizons of small-yard (or no-yard) gardeners. Many trailing or vining edibles and ornamentals will lend themselves to trellis culture, so don’t be afraid to “grow up!”
•Pruning - Cut back winter-killed tips and cut out any winter-killed canes from all roses. “Landscape” roses, including shrub and ground-covering, usually require only a little shaping each spring. Climbers flower most heavily on old wood, so no hard pruning until after this first flush of blooms. Tea (including many of the English roses, such as ‘David Austin’ - with tea rose heritage) and floribunda roses benefit from annual spring pruning, cutting back to 18 inches, just above dormant buds. As always, combine with granular rose food and rock or superphosphate for optimal growth and flower production. Many summer and fall flowering shrubs benefit from a spring pruning, without loss of flower buds. Spring bloomers are pruned immediately after flowering (within 4-6 weeks), or you risk losing next season’s blooms. Straggly yews and other needled evergreens can be tidied up, before new growth emerges.
•Spring feeding of the entire landscape, based on the individual needs of each specimen, is recommended... even if you fed late last fall - the results are well worth the effort. Stronger, healthier plants are better able to withstand such stresses as heat, insects and disease.
•Shop early for the best selection of fruit trees and small fruits, such as grapes, blueberries, raspberries and strawberries. The small fruits, especially, are relatively easy to establish and maintain. At harvest time, cover some plants with bird netting for family consumption and leave a few for the backyard birds.

How can one resist the showy dinnerplate blooms, borne atop these stately dahlia plants? How marvelous, that with just a little effort, we can overwinter these tubers, enjoying them for years!
•Spring flowering bulbs should be fed with bulb food or a balanced, complete organic food, as flowers fade. As foliage dies back, nutrients are utilized in the formation of next season’s flower buds. This is the most important time to feed an established bulb bed. The next best time, is as bulb foliage first emerges in spring.PACKED WITH TREASURED FAVORITES, NEW HYBRIDS
AND LOTS OF GREAT INFORMATION!
Stop by for your copy, and while you're here, check out
our ever-expanding plant inventory. Our store is
brimming with everything a gardener could desire...
from the innately practical, to the extremely ornamental!
Espoma Organic® Lawn Food 7-2-2...All Natural Organic! Specially formulated from all natural ingredients and enhanced with Bio-tone®; a patented blend of beneficial microbes that help promote faster greening, deeper roots, and better soil structure(30 lbs. covers 2,500 sq. ft.).
Espoma Organic® Weed Preventer 9-0-0 Naturally Prevent Weeds! Made from corn gluten meal, an all natural by-product from the manufacturing of cornstarch. Children and pets safely can play on the lawn after the application. (25 lbs. covers 1,250 sq. ft.)Ask about the 4-step all-natural Espoma lawn program... are you seeding or over-seeding this spring or fall? We can tailor a program to accommodate your specific lawn requirements.
Earth-tone® Natural Pesticides ~ Disease, insects, or weeds - Earth-tone natural gardening solutions are effective answers to the gardener's toughest problems.Organically Balanced Tones ~ Complex blends of long lasting natural organic ingredients enhanced with Bio-tone® beneficial microbes to provide your garden with the balanced meal it deserves. Holly-tone and Plant-tone are must-haves for the all-natural landscape. To fine-tune that feeding program, consider adding Garden-tone, Flower-tone, Bulb-tone, Rose-tone, Tree-tone and Tomato-tone to your spring, summer and fall regimen.
We recommend Bio-tone® Starter Plus 4-3-3 for enhanced root development. By now, you've probably learned about the benefits of introducing beneficial bacteria, humates and mycorrhizae, for enhanced root development... at planting time, as well as for established specimens. This bio-active plant food is an all-natural organic. Available in 4 and 25 lb. bags.
Rock Phosphate 0-3-0. All natural. Pelletized for easy application. Contains 3% available and 24% total phosphate. An outstanding supplement for enhanced rooting, as well as increased blooms and fruits. In 8 and 35 lb. bags.
Greensand 0-0-0.1 A mined mineral, rich in the soil conditioning element Glauconite. Long sought after by organic gardeners... conditions soil, aids with overall plant heath and strengthens plant plant defenses against stress (heat, cold, drought) and disease. Contains 6% total potash. 0.1% available immediately. Rich in trace elements. In 10 and 36 lb. bags.
Soil Perfector®Successful plantings require a soil structure consisting of approximately 50% solids, 25% pore space for air, and 25% pore space for moisture. While this may be common in undisturbed forest areas, it is not the general rule for homeowners today, whose topsoil has often been stripped away.
Many homeowners have heavy clay soils, which lack adequate pore space for air and can lead to poor drainage, reduced root growth, and greater susceptibility to environmental stress. Others have dry sandy soils, which lack adequate pore space for water which can lead to excessive drainage, as well as a loss of nutrients from the root zone.
Soil Perfector is made from a naturally derived, ceramic mineral that is kiln-fired at temperatures in excess of 2000º F. This process creates a durable, lightweight granule containing thousands of tiny storage spaces that hold the perfect balance of water, air and nutrients for an improved soil structure.
All natural soil conditioner. •Permanently improves clay and sandy soils. •Add to all potting mixes and soils. •Prevents compaction and promotes root growth. •One time application. Won’t break down. In 27 lb. bags.
Directions ~
Preparing Flower & Vegetable Beds...
One 27 lb. bag covers 10 sq. ft. Spread a 1” layer of Soil Perfector across the entire bed (2”
layer for severely compacted soils). Work into the top 6 inches of soil with a shovel, rake or
rototiller.
New Individual Plants...
Dig a hole at least twice the diameter and slightly less deep than the root ball of the plant. Mix
1 part Soil Perfector to 3 parts removed soil. Follow planting directions and water thoroughly.
Container Gardens...
Line the bottom of the container with 2 inches of Soil Perfector. Fill the container with 1 part
Soil Perfector to 3 parts potting mix for improved aeration and drainage.
Existing Plants...
Using a spading fork around the drip line of the plant, rock and twist the fork to open cracks and crevices as deeply as possible. Fill the cracks with Soil Perfector. For large trees, dig narrow trenches 18 to 24 inches deep starting between the trunk and the drip line and extending out into the surrounding soil. Dig at least 5 trenches in a wheel spoke pattern. Fill the trenches with Soil Perfector.
Got Voles? While we're on the topic of "Soil Perfector," let's talk about a fairly common problem this spring. With the deep, constant snow cover of this past winter, both moles (feeding exclusively on soil insects, grubs and earthworms) and voles took advantage of the situation and tunneled extensively throughout lawn areas, but voles who are vegetarian, opted for invading beds and borders - causing much damage under cover of winter.
How to Identify Voles ~
Voles are small mammals that measure between 4-8.5” from head to tail. Often called field mice (look rather like mice, with stubby little tails), these creatures destroy trees, shrubs, and other plants by gnawing on their trunks or eating their root systems. To check if you have voles look for 1-2” wide burrows and quarter size holes around your plant. Also look for 1/8-3/8” gnaw marks around plant stems that are formed at various angles. Rabbits gnaw marks are much wider, smoother and occur at 45º angles. If your plant is leaning over and drooping, lift its root system from the ground to see if the roots have been eaten. If many of the above symptoms are present, then you probably have voles.
What is Soil Perfector?
Soil Perfector provides a permanent physical barrier to voles. Soil Perfector is made
from a naturally derived, ceramic mineral that is kiln-fired at temperatures in excess
of 2000o F. This process creates a durable, lightweight, abrasive granule that voles
are naturally discouraged to dig through. Soil Perfector is non-toxic and will not
physically harm the voles. Furthermore, Soil Perfector will not break down or degrade
in the soil so one application is all you ever need.
Directions ~
New Plantings...
Dig a hole 6-8” wider and 1” deeper than root ball. Line bottom of hole with 2” of
Soil Perfector. Place plant into hole. Form 3-4” solid band of Soil Perfector around
plant. Fill remainder of hole with soil and mulch top with 1-2” layer of Soil Perfector
from drip-line to crown.
Existing Plants...
Dig a 1’ deep, 3-4” wide trench around plant drip-line. Fill trench with Soil Perfector.
Replace existing mulch with 2” layer of Soil Perfector from dripline to plant stem.
Planting Bulbs...
Dig a hole 2-3 inches deeper than specific depth recommended for bulb. Line the
bottom of the hole with 2-3” of Soil Perfector. Set bulb in hole. Fill remainder of hole
with a minimum of a 3” lining of Soil Perfector. Backfill the remainder of the hole with
a mix of 50% Soil Perfector and 50% previously removed soil.
Protect Your Plants From Vole Damage
• Provides a permanent physical barrier to voles. • All natural, non-toxic. Safe to use around pets & children. • Won’t physically harm voles or other wildlife. • One easy application that won’t break down or degrade. • Also prevents compaction & promotes root growth so plants establish quickly.
Messenger – the science behind a beautiful garden.Messenger is a gardening breakthrough that turns on your plants immune system! Your plants will not only be stronger and healthier, but produce more fruit, flowers and foliage.
The active ingredient in Messenger is from a family of naturally occurring proteins called harpins. In nature, harpin proteins are produced by bacteria that cause plant diseases. Plants have a special ability to “sense” harpin proteins. It’s like an early warning system that alerts the plant when it’s under attack from something that will cause a disease (because when a bacterial pathogen is around, so is a harpin protein). When a plant senses harpin proteins, it activates its own natural responses to help fight off the attack and stay healthy. Just as our bodies respond to an infection, you can think of this as the plants version of an immune response.
Messenger is an environmentally friendly product that has been awarded by the EPA, endorsed by the National Gardening Association, the American Rose Society, the National Chrysanthemum Society, and the National Home Gardening Club.
Defend From Within! ~
Messenger can be used on all types of plants growing indoors and outdoors, including edible fruits and vegetables right up to the day of harvest. As with any product, always read and follow label instructions before buying or using this product.
Follow these simple guidelines to get the most from your Messenger application:
Begin applications early in the plants life. Just like a healthy lifestyle, beginning early and continuing through maturity yields the biggest benefits.
Apply every 3 weeks, or at least once a month. Applications at key events (bud formation, flowering, fruit set and sizing, ripening, etc.) are especially effective and magnify those plant processes.
Plants respond best if they are actively growing when treated. Applying Messenger in the morning before the hottest parts of the day is best. Plants treated when they are dormant or under severe stress from heat, cold, or drought may not respond as well.
Mix with water as directed on the packet instructions. If tank mixing with other products, always mix Messenger first. Fill sprayer at least 3/4 full of water, mix Messenger completely, mix other products, and finish filling with water.
Spray right away. Apply product within 4 hours of mixing for best effects. Reseal nused product in opened packets to minimize exposure to air and moisture and use within 3 weeks.
Apply as a fine mist to the leaves: A pump-up sprayer or garden mister is most efficient. Think "heavy dew" to get good coverage, but if Messenger is running off the plant, you're wasting material. 1 gallon of spray can treat up to 1000 square feet or 25-50 roses or tomato plants. A watering can will also work well, but you won’t be able to cover as many plants. Root drenching is effective, but it is the least efficient way to apply Messenger.
Never throw mixed leftover product away…it’s a waste! There is always a plant around that could benefit…apply leftover material as a root drench to your houseplants.
Don’t neglect the basics. Messenger is not a substitute for good gardening practices – maintain proper fertility, soil quality & vitality, watering, and the use of other control measures when needed.
A quality essential to the survival of these poor little Croci, struggling up through forgotten twigs, cut up and left behind last fall, by some careless gardener (aka 'GardenAuthor'). Persistance... A quality much admired in tough, New England gardeners, preparing for a brand new season.
FIRST AIRING OF "THE CORLISS GARDEN SHOW" ...
A STEP BY STEP VISUAL PRESENTATION
OF BUILDING RAISED BEDS.
Longtime, experienced gardeners and regular students
of the "Saturday Sessions" workshops, Peter and Billie Anne,
have generously agreed to film this sequence and
have done so in time for our April issue.
Peter refrained from using pressure-treated wood, because of the safety implications, especially when cultivating edible crops. Box dimensions are 4 feet by 8 feet. Height is 20", or 22" with the mitered top edge, which is strong enough to lean on, while reaching across the bed.



















These flexible PVC hoops are perfect for draping plastic, harvest fabric or bird netting over the beds... extending the growing season and protecting crops from various pests. One can only imagine the productivity of two such beds this summer... much success to Peter and Billie Anne during this brand new growing season! And thanks again for the hard work and photographic record! Feel free to follow Peter's plans for a sturdy, well-built raised bed of your own.Birds are billing and cooing, right in plain sight.
And, they're shopping around
for some pretty upscale housing!
And just take a peek at the armloads of color
from these great silk imposters...

to enjoy the remainder of early spring's stark beauty,
when driving around these New England environs...
as he emerges from his food bin. Nobody told him
you're only supposed to remove the treats,
not dive in and hunker down.
you may discover a turkey vulture floating on the
air currents above your home, with two others,
not in this particular shot.
Elect yourself to the Gardening Hall of Fame(can you say "hyperbole?") and wear proudly
the shirt that makes it so!
preferring a picnic lunch to all that gardening activity.
From 'GardenAuthor' and all the staff of Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery ~ A Happy Spring, Happy Growing Season and very Happy Easter! Consider a Corliss gift certificate for that special gardener... they'll remember your thoughtfulness for years to come!Raised Bed Photos: ©Peter 2009
Certain photos and text courtesy manufacturer's website.
Some photos courtesy ©CBI 2008
Tree & shrub text: 2009 Corliss catalog
All other photos & text ©Deb Lambert 2008/2009
Newsletter ©CBI/DJL 2009
Sunday, March 1, 2009
'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ MARCH 2009
March 2009..... Vol. 7, No. 3
A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert
As we plan a successful new season of gardening, with a Nor'easter depositing the first flakes beyond the windowpane, let's ignore that growing blanket and turn our attention to attractive new candidates for the home landscape. Here's a little something to cure those late winter blues, alleviate your spring fever and get you out of that recliner... maybe get you dancing?
Twist-n-Shout™Common Name: Endless Summer® Twist-n-Shout™ Bigleaf Hydrangea]
Meet the newest addition to the Endless Summer® family. Like the two previous introductions, this reblooming lacecap hydrangea produces flowers on new and old wood... making it perfect for tough New England winters... no more non-blooming macrophylla hydrangeas for you, with loss of overwintering buds. For those of us who follow such things, the added excitement is that Twist-n-Shout was developed by Dr. Michael Dirr of the University of Georgia... a veritable rock star of the plant world, whose widely respected research and shared information form the basis of many a gardener's or plantsman's opinion ("Manual of Woody Landscape Plants," etc). Parentage is Hydrangea macrophylla 'Lady in Red' and Hydrangea m. 'Penny Mac'.
Here are the details ~ Prefers partial shade. Flowers all season long, with repeat blooms. As with other hydrangeas, blossom color varies... pink blooms in alkaline soil/blue blooms in acidic soil. Watering: keep soil moist. Feeding: slow release fertilizer in spring, no feeding after August 15th. Height & Spread: 3-5' / 3-5' Other: Attractive large green foliage, turning burgundy red in autumn. Has a rounded overall shape. Zone hardiness: Zones 4-9.
Hydrangea macrophylla Endless Summer® Twist-n-Shout™ ~ truly a new plant to get you dancing with anticipation... something about which we gardeners can all "twist and shout!"
Last year's predecessor: Blushing Bride[Botanical Name: Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blushing Bride' (PP17, 169)
Common Name: Endless Summer® Blushing Bride Hydrangea]
Endless Summer® The Original[Hydrangea macrophylla 'Bailmer' (PP15, 298)]
(Thanks to Bailey Nurseries/Endless Summer™ Hydrangea
sites for photos and details.)
Hardy in Zones 5 – 9, growing 8-16" high. This grass thrives in full sun and well-drained, moderately moist soil. From breeder Bruno Carpentier comes this hybrid with solid green arching leaves that take on orange and red tones in the autumn adding even more interest. The colder it is, the more color you get!
Ornamental grasses bring amazing substance and texture, enhancing other plants and contributing a beauty all their own. Now that you're about to "twist and shout" this winter day away, at the thought of that new hydrangea, bask in the heat of this fiery new grass, sure to add spice and pizazz to any landscape.
Time to put the finishing touches on those
garden plans and landscape designs.
And time to start gardening, in earnest...
•Right plant/right place ~ Available light, soil type, drainage, exposure, topography... all must come under scrutiny, whether you're planning new gardens, major renovations or simply planting a single specimen. Do not set yourself up to fail. Be honest in assessing your proposed planting site. Example: Your new lilac will not thrive in the sour, low-phosphorus soil of that semi-shaded spot by the garage... choose another plant. That lilac you've been coveting, needs full sun and well-drained soil, with a higher pH than many of your landscape plants require... annual applications of balanced fertilizer, rock phosphate or superphosphate and pelletized lime (or wood ash) are usually indicated for that lilac to flourish.
•Soil Testing ~ Whether it's a lilac, rhododendron, shade tree, vegetable garden, lawn or flower border, soil fertility and pH (acidity/alkalinity) are determined by a soil test. Soil test kits for the home gardener will provide a good indication about such factors in your landscape and you can make necessary adjustments, according to the results, based on the requirements of the plants you plan to cultivate. Plants already under cultivation, not performing to their full potential, will benefit from adjustments made, based on such soil tests. For more complete, advanced testing, consider sending samples to your local County Extension agent. In this area of New England, our best resource is UMASS (University of Massachusetts, Amherst), Department of Plant and Soil Sciences ~ just click on that link for their website and complete list of services, fees and instructions.
•Planting procedures ~ Once you've determined that the site is appropriate for the proposed plant, garden, lawn, etc., and you're willing to provide whatever yearly maintenance is necessary for success, the next logical and most important step is planting procedure. For complete instructions, whether you're installing balled and burlapped plants, or container-grown specimens, click on this Corliss Bros. site. Click on the Corliss catalog cover (catalog pdf will download), then scroll to page 31 for the correct procedures. One of the most common reasons for plant failure is planting too deeply... closely followed by over-mulching (also, direct contact between mulch and trunk) and improper watering techniques. Always ask before installation, if you're at all unsure!
•Plant Selection ~ While planting of woody ornamentals occurs from early spring through November, and selection remains strong throughout the season, there are instances where the widest variety selection exists in the spring... fruit trees, small fruits (raspberries, grapes, etc.) and, to a lesser extent, dogwoods, birch, Japanese maples and dwarf and unusual conifers. The widest selection of roses occurs in mid-May, which is also when annuals and hanging baskets are widely available. Late March/early April finds the sales yard starting to fill up with woody ornamentals and perennials starting to populate the bedding department. As with all outdoor endeavors in New England, everything is weather-dependent, so a generous dash of patience goes a long way!
•Seed Starting ~ Most seed packets will list the number of weeks required, from sowing seed to transplanting outdoors. For instance, tomatoes need only about six weeks. Our "safe date" for transplanting is May 30th, though most years mid-May is OK... beyond danger of frost. Therefore, late March to mid-April (I prefer only a 4-6 week indoor start... much longer, and plants tend to be leggy and take longer to adjust outdoors) is actually ideal for starting tomatoes, marigolds and other fast-growers. Take advantage of light, seed starting blends, milled sphagnum, full-spectrum plant lights, heated seedling mats, peat pellets, trays fitted with inserts and clear domes for that greenhouse effect. Plan to harden-off your seedlings (allow about a week) before transplanting outdoors - gradually exposing them to stronger light and wind (beware those chilly nights, however!). Scroll down to "Vegetables" for more timing.
•Cuttings ~ Take cuttings from stock geraniums and pot them up, after sturdy roots develop. Rooting hormone and bottom heat (the same heating mat that encourages seed germination) will hasten the rooting procedure. Your stock plants will benefit from the pruning and reward you with fuller growth and more blooms. Your rooted cuttings, set out in late May or early June, will beautify beds and containers all summer, at considerable savings!
Trays and inserts, often with a shallow dome,are commonly used for seed starting. Your seed
mix blend should be light and fast-draining...
usually a blend of milled peat, perlite and
vermiculite. I like to cover seeds with milled
sphagnum, to cut down on "damping-off."
This seed starting kit utilizes Jiffy 7® peat pelletsas the growing medium - convenient, space-saving
units. Like peat pots, they break down in the soil,
once transplantation is complete.
Finally! At long last! Manufacturers must have heard the pleas of gardeners, everywhere. While an unvented, shallow dome is satisfactory for only the briefest time, we now find a substantial dome that provides the necessary height for growing seedlings, or to accommodate cuttings that are slow to root-in. You can turn any 22" x 11" plastic tray into a miniature greenhouse. No more trying to prop open the base for ventilation, since two separate vents on top easily dial open to various settings.
Provide essential light - more reliable than sunny windows, with you turning the trays 180º everyday. Simply raise the light fixture on its own pulley system, as the seedlings grow, maintaining a distance of 3-4" between bulbs and seedling tops. Your seedlings will be stockier and healthier, eliminating stretching and one factor that contributes to the dreaded "damping off." (Temperature, overwatering, leaving water in the base of the tray, overly-heavy seed starting mix and improper feeding techniques are other contributing factors.)
These are the full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs, available in 2' & 4' lengths, that approximate the natural daylight under which seedlings will thrive, once planted outdoors. Your light fixture (a shop light, with reflector sides works well... or the unit above) should be run for 12-14 hours per day, during daylight hours. Those seedlings and/or cuttings still need a dark, rest period at night, since we're trying to replicate nature's normal cycles.
•Starting Begonias ~ These tubers need a generous head start. March is ideal. Planted shallowly, in peat pots filled with a light potting mix, kept lightly moist and fed (only after roots start to develop) in morning sun (or filtered PM sun, or under grow lights), Begonias will be ready to set out in filtered shade, come late May.
•Bulb selection ~ In addition to Begonia tubers, you'll find other summer bulbs offered during March and April... canna, calla lily, anemone, gladiolus, dahlia, lily, among others. These are bulbs (actually tubers, corms, rhizomes or true bulbs) that are not winter or frost-hardy, are planted after danger of frost and lifted for winter storage in the fall.
•Check stored summer bulbs ~ Be sure they are still disease and insect-free... use bulb dust, if necessary - discard any rotted bulbs. Continue to keep them cool and dark until planting time. Most can be planted directly into the garden by mid-May. If dahlias are sprouting too quickly, you may need to pot them and grow them along in a sunny window, pinching back periodically for increased fullness. Transplant outside in late May and enjoy earlier blooms than ever!
•Indoor plants ~ Are breaking dormancy. It's time to resume a feeding schedule and an ideal chance to repot, if needed... perhaps readying them for a summer vacation, come late May. Check for any evidence of insect activity and control, if indicated. Often, spider mite becomes very problematic at this time and needs to be addressed, before it spreads or worsens.
•Pansies ~ Pansies, Violas, Johhny-Jump-Ups... hardy little relatives of the genus Viola that thrive in cool, and even quite cold, weather. The first spring color encountered at garden centers and a reliable signal that spring has almost sprung! They may weary during the heat of summer, but usually catch their "second wind," during the cool days of fall.
•Dormant Oil/Lime Sulfur ~ This combination product is sprayed in November, and again in March, when temps are around 40-45º for the control of insects, eggs and many diseases... probably the most important application, serving to smother these over-wintering problems, allowing us to start the season relatively free from last season's troubles. Fruit, shade and flowering trees will benefit from such precautionary applications, as will small fruits, flowering shrubs and roses. Scale insects, mite and aphid eggs, as well as peach leaf curl, black spot and powdery mildew are among the insects and diseases controlled. In addition to a thorough application on trunks, branches and stems, spray the surrounding soil... especially important around roses.
•The Big Cleanup ~ Rake and sweep away road salt and sand from roadside lawn and garden areas. Follow with your second application (the first is in late fall, as a preventative) of gypsum (this is the curative app.), at 10-15# per 100 sq.ft., to neutralize the affects of that salt. Remove winter mulch from perennials and roses. Pick up winter debris - leaves, twigs, branches - from garden and lawn areas.
•Last-chance winter pruning ~ Before fruit trees break dormancy, and while you can see the overall outline, make those important pruning decisions... shaping, thinning, removing water sprouts and suckers... if the job is too large, contact a Massachusetts certified arborist (or, the equivalent in your state). Prune grapes, as needed, before the sap starts to rise. Cut July-bearing raspberry canes to the ground (only those that bore last season... you'll see the little calyxes remaining). Prune any large limbs from pine or spruce, so wounds heal quickly, without insect or disease invasion. Likewise, the removal of large wood from shade or flowering trees (avoid tip pruning that would remove existing flower buds). Prune away any, and all, dead wood from trees and shrubs.
•Feeding ~ As soils start to warm and dry, probably late March, begin fertilization of trees, shrubs, hedges, fruits and perennials. Weather-dependent, first feeding of roses is late March/early April, as many receive their spring pruning, to remove winter-killed canes and overly-long stems. Organic, granular fertilizers, such as Plant-Tone and Holly-Tone (in combination with superphosphate or rock phosphate for flowering and fruiting specimens) are lightly tilled into the soil at the dripline, preferably just before a soaking rain. For established, deep-rooted trees, use the bar-feeding method - 1# 0f organic fertilizer & 1# of rock phosphate per inch of trunk caliper (trunk diameter, at waist-height). Deliver into a series of 4-6" deep holes, punched into the soil, around the dripline. What's a dripline? Feeder roots are located right beneath branch tips... the area from whence rain drips from the shrub or tree. We'll talk more about subsequent feedings, next month. If needed, lime to sweeten soil and gypsum to improve drainage, are applied at this time, as well.
•Lime ~ Lilacs, roses and other sweet-soil candidates are limed in spring, to raise pH to preferred levels. Lawns are limed now, as well (50# per 1,000 sq.ft.). In doubt? Perform a simple soil test to determine quantities. Lawns with poor drainage will also benefit from a first application of gypsum.
•Vegetables ~ Plan to incorporate large quantities of compost and/or other organic materials. You may need to wait until soils dry sufficiently, before adding these materials. Soil worked too soon, while still wet, is harmed by too-early cultivation and the texture is adversely affected. Soil should be friable. Friable? Squeeze a handful of soil, run your thumb across it and watch it crumble apart. If it stays in a wet clump, it's too soon to work in those soil amendments. This is true for any soil you propose to cultivate. Same test before planting pea seeds! If soil remains wet and cold, the traditional mid-March planting date for peas must be delayed. Onion sets, shallot sets and spinach are also planted, as soils dry and start to warm.
During March, we give an indoor start to broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, lettuce and peas. This is the month, also, for transplanting broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery and lettuce. Things to consider? Raised beds warm up sooner in spring, their height making planting and maintenance easier on the gardener. When space is limited, trellis vining veggies and/or grow them in containers.
•Compost ~ Reactivate those bins and piles! Harvest finished compost and till it into fallow beds, as soils become friable. As you gather winter debris, cut down perennial stems and gather stray autumn leaves, begin building new reserves, adding compost activator to hasten the process. As the days get longer and the sun stronger, the cycle begins anew! As always, alternate layers of wet, green material (nitrogen-rich) and dry, brown material (carbon-rich). The correct amount of moisture, aeration and heat (135-160º) leads to fast turn-around time for finished compost. Useful tools for compost management (OK, they're fun, as well, and a great gift for the gardener who has everything!)? A compost aerator tool, along with a compost thermometer, are great aids in maintaining a well-regulated, efficient compost pile.
•Birds ~ Mount birdhouses for spring broods. Returning migratory birds, as well as local songbirds who've not yet selected nesting sites, will soon take advantage of spring-mounted housing. The variety is amazing... houses and nesting shelves, especially designed for wrens, chickadees, bluebirds, robins, owls, wood ducks and so many local backyard favorites. It's still important to offer supplemental food sources, until natural food sources and insects are widely available, once again. During the nesting season, up to 90% of their diet consists of insects. Offer a little seed during the warm weather, if you wish... just enough to keep them in the area, for your enjoyment. They'll eat your garden insects, raise their young and provide hours of entertainment. Don't forget that clean source of water, for bathing and drinking!
•Water Conservation ~ Harness the rain! Install a rain barrel beneath your downspout and use this water in the landscape... recycling at its best.
•Last call for tool maintenance ~ Are your hand tools, long-handled tools and cutting tools all cleaned, sharpened and oiled? Including the wooden handles? Power equipment, like mowers and rototillers, should be serviced and may need a tune-up... are yours all set? Last call, before the season is upon us and technicians are too busy to take care of yours, upon short
notice!
•Edging Beds ~ A time-consuming, but necessary, chore. Be sure your bed edger is sharpened and ready to go, as soon as lawn and garden soils have dried sufficiently to accept foot traffic, without damage to soil structure.
•Spreading Bark Mulch ~ Chips, shredded, hemlock, mountain blend, valley dark... the choice is yours. Spread about 3" deep around trees and shrubs, or 1-2" deep around annuals and perennials, mulch will retain moisture, gradually break down into the soil (adding valuable organic matter) and retard weed growth. Cocoa hulls, buckwheat hulls, river stone and bark nuggets are among the bagged materials that will perform the same landscape functions. Never allow your preferred mulch to come in contact with the trunk, stems or crowns of trees, shrubs or bedding plants... always maintain a margin of bare soil around the base of each plant. Consider applying a product containing Treflan® or corn gluten, before topdressing with fresh mulch, around established plants or new plantings, but not in areas where you plan to sow seed, as these products will halt germination of all seed, not only weed seed.
•Lawns ~ As mentioned in earlier segments, once spring cleanup to remove leaves, debris and any road salt/sand accumulation is complete, lime and gypsum can be applied, if indicated. Looking ahead, April is a good month to apply your first feeding of the season.
Don't be too hasty if that first application includes a crabgrass preventative, as soils must warm sufficiently, first. If you abide by the calendar, rather than by specific spring weather conditions (each year varies, of course, and we New Englanders remember many a year where spring is almost nonexistent), your pre-emergence crabgrass control will have leached away, no longer providing much of a barrier, if any, to halt crabgrass seed germination. Remember, there are pre-emergence controls that halt all seed germination and some that allow you sow grass seed (at a higher price point). Look into corn gluten (does not differentiate between crabgrass and your grass seed), a nice safe choice around pets and children.
Take advantage of spring savings on 4-step lawn programs. Going organic? More and more folks are, these days... kinder to the family and gentler on the environment. The Espoma Company produces some fine lawn products, as does Organica®, with their 4-step all organic lawn program that can be tailored to fit your specific requirements... let us help you design your own organic program.
If power dethatching, and/or aeration, are indicated, allow soil to dry sufficiently before attempting this chore. There are some spring seasons that just remain so wet, that it's better to wait until fall, to avoid damaging the lawn. Also, turf should be established for about three years, to be tough enough to withstand these vigorous procedures. To maintain soil integrity, and lessen the chance of damaging soil texture, avoid even foot traffic if soils remain excessively wet.
Oh, yes... moles. What to do? It's too early to apply grub control, including milky spore disease (which takes a while to become established, anyway). Meanwhile, you may be finding mole or even vole (they eat roots and plants, and are primarily vegetarians, unlike moles who are insectivorous) tunnels, throughout lawn areas. Skunks, possums, raccoons and other hungry critters may show up at nocturnal lawn parties - true, they rid your lawn of the beetle grubs, but what messy, destructive guests they are! The granular Mole Max® or liquid Mole Max® are simply two forms of castor oil that drive away such critters, leaving you to deal with any grub problems on your own time table.
•A Plan of Attack ~ At the risk of sounding almost hyperbolic about pest and disease control, it is in your best interest, and that of your entire landscape, to develop a plan... to become proactive, before the growing season is upon you. Based on problems encountered over the past several seasons, as well as commonly-occurring nuisances, develop a preventative plan of pest management ~ Dormant-season applications to start the season clean... Messenger® harpin protein to boost the immune system before plants are under attack by fungus organisms... naturally-derived Serenade® to halt the spread of many diseases, in an environmentally-sensitive manner... keeping plants healthy and well-fed, better able to stave off insect and disease assault... always turning, first, to the most effective/least aggressive solution to any problem... turning to nature for answers and solutions, wherever possible - products derived from beneficial bacteria, natural fermentation processes, soap (potassium salts of fatty acids) and food-grade oils, to name a few. For slugs and snails, turn to products containing iron phosphate, rather than metaldehyde (poisonous granules, particularly attractive to dogs, often with deadly results). And lastly, taking direct advantage of nature and target specific pests, by releasing natural predators such as beneficial nematodes and wasps, lacewings and ladybugs.
Got a Big To-Do List? If you're a gardener, especially in New England, you're in good company! Just take it one step at a time... it's all in the breathing! Don't get overwhelmed, this early in the season. Set up a sensible, time-squenced plan and stick to it... at least until nature sends you a curve ball, in the form of uncooperative weather, new diseases or unfamiliar insects. Delight in chores completed - rejoice in communing with nature and the peace you find in the garden - the sun on your back and the March wind in your face. There's not much room for pessimism in the garden... reality, yes - pessimism, no.
A little optimism will stand all of us in good stead, as we commence the brand new growing season. Find a spot for that 'Twist-n-Shout' Hydrangea, plant a 'Green Jewel' Echinacea, Gaillardia Commotion 'Tizzy' [more Echinacea & Gaillardia talk, next time] or get fired up over that new fiery-hued grass, Hakonechloa 'Nicholas'. Now, get out there and enjoy 2009 in the garden! [Maybe after the snowstorm?]
~ finis ~
©CBI/DJL 2009
Sunday, February 1, 2009
'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ February 2009

February 2009..... Vol. 7, No. 2
A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert
Before we inspect the 2009 "Year Of" entries, examine this season's AAS winners, contemplate timely garden activities and trudge across what is hopefully the last full month of winter, let us bask in the warmth and glow of this timely holiday. Valentine's Day conjures visions of lush roses, fragrant bouquets, heart-shaped boxes of chocolates and fancy greeting cards. While it may be a day to share with your sweetheart, it's also a time to express one's affection for friends and relatives ~ and perhaps to present a little gift of appreciation. As we wrap up this February edition, you'll find a few suggestions for such tokens of esteem.
But, there is much garden acreage to cover, before we conclude this particular issue. First, as instructor of Corliss Bros. "Saturday Sessions," I'm pleased to announce that classes will be back in session during the month of March. What better way to spend a month of Saturday mornings, than honing those horticultural skills, in preparation for the 2009 season?
Come join us, at Corliss Bros Garden Center & Nursery, for our March classes...
Sat. 3/7/09 ~ "Propagation 101" ~ The what, when, where and how of starting your own plants from seed, layering and cuttings. Increase your appreciation of this economical, absorbing phase of gardening, and reap the rewards!
Sat. 3/14/09 ~ "Your Spring Checklist" ~ Feeding, pruning and prevention. Mapping out the best strategies for a successful, stress-free season. A general landscape primer for early spring. We'll highlight the safest options.
Sat. 3/21/09 ~ "Edible Landscaping" ~ We'll concentrate on home orchards and small fruits, covering location, planting, cross-pollination, feeding and maintenance.
Sat. 3/28/09 ~ "Your Spring Lawn" ~ Raking, dethatching, aerating, feeding, controlling and preventing weeds and insects... what you need to know to maintain healthy, green turf. Organic options are top priority!
Classes are held from 9-10 AM, in our on-site classroom, at Corliss Bros Garden Center & Nursery/31 Essex Road (Rte. 133)/Ipswich, MA 01938. Reservations are recommended, as class size is limited. To reserve a place in any, or all, of our March workshops, call 978-356-5422. Alternatively, email your info, preferred class and number of attendees to gardenauthor1@verizon.net
Now, while we're thinking spring and considering all things green and growing, why not investigate what the National Garden Bureau (NGB) has in store for us, this season. This is an annual kick-start to the season, which I am only too glad to highlight.
NGB has proclaimed 2009 the Year of Nicotiana and the Year of Greens. While this is only a brief glimpse into the subject at hand, clicking on National Garden Bureau will yield very complete fact sheets on both categories... lots of history, variety details and cultural info!
Nicotiana is an old-fashioned favorite, grown in many a grandmother's flower garden. Prized for stature, fragrance and hardiness during the heat of summer, this annual readily self-seeds, so you'll almost always have a few "volunteers" from year to year. "Big and beautiful" may still work for large-scale beds, but suburban gardeners have come to appreciate the recent hybridization, which has yielded plants of smaller stature and fuller growth habit... just perfect for smaller gardens, borders and containers. And the color choice? Well, it's just amazing!
Year of Nicotiana
For full sun to very light shade, in a well-drained, moderately fertile site, Nicotiana lends color, beauty and fragrance to flower borders and containers. As cut flowers, or to attract butterflies and hummingbirds, these are versatile annuals.
In the 1970's, we were delighted to embrace the the lower, fuller habit of the semi-dwarf 'Nicki' series, at 16-18" in height. This year, as we celebrate the wide variety of heights and forms of flowering tobacco, we look to the 'Avalon' series for a rainbow of color and full, low plants, perfect for pot or border... described as "very dwarf," at 10" high. ('Avalon' is one of the new hybrids from Nicotiana x sanderae.)
Nicotiana 'Saratoga Mix'
Nicotiana 'Perfume Mixed'
Nicotiana 'Tinkerbell'spectacular scenery of a good, old-fashioned
New England winter.
the ordinary becomes extraordinary and we have a new
appreciation, a fresh perspective on the beauty that
surrounds our winter abode.
of rare backyard visitors, like this juvenile
Cooper's Hawk.
Photo: ©CBI 2009Like frozen cascades, the icicles arch upward,
before rippling down to the earth below.
A salt water bay lies frozen in time, awaiting
the sweet release, as incoming tide and strengthening
sun jostle aside these salty blocks, in anticipation of
spring's arrival.
☃☀☃☀☃☀☃☀☃
Juxtapose all this frozen winter glory with visions
of a brand new gardening season and all that
it holds in store. Why, it's enough to cool the
brow of any gardener who's fallen prey to
spring fever!
For a little inspiration, let's see which plants
were selected as the 2009 AAS Winners...
(The following 4 photos courtesy of
All-America selections ~ click for more
cultural details and descriptions.)
Viola F1 'Rain Blue and Purple'In the south, it blooms in fall & winter ~
in the north, in spring & summer. Like a cool
blue pool, plants spread 10-14" wide, which make
them ideal for hanging baskets and urns.
Eggplant F1 'Gretel'Pure white fruit with tender skin, even when
harvested beyond the ideal size of 3-4" long.
The 3x3' compact bush is suitable for garden
or container culture.
Melon F1 'Lambkin'Rind is thin and flesh is sweet, white and juicy,
with fruits maturing at 2-4 pounds. Earlier than
most gourmet melons... a good keeper, under
refrigeration. The vigorous vines yield heavily.
Squash F1 'Honey Bear'Each one-pound fruit is perfect for baking and serving
in the half shell. The large bushes are 2-3 wide x 4-5' high,
without any vining habit. Tolerance to powdery mildew means
increased yield, especially toward the season's end.
And although we've rolled out the ice carpet,
on this wintry day, I suggest using the front door of
the retail store. Soon enough, the hustle and bustle
of spring will fill the air, as well as the rear parking lot
and bark mulch piles.
as some of us enjoy a little noonday perambulation.
we see the beginnings of transition... lots of bare walls, empty
pegboard and freshly-painted shelves awaiting
the spring '09 merchandise.
viewing these tools, makes one yearn for the
warmth of the sun and the feel of rich, dark soil.
and vegetable seeds. This display has since been completed
and now awaits your perusal... planning your spring gardens ~
a rather pleasant way to spend your "down time." Come now
and avoid the crowds! And don't forget the wild bird supplies!
NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED...
Corliss Bros... garden storage with style!)
Bird Feeding ~ Continue to offer an open source of water, as well as seed and suet. You'll enjoy the song and plumage, but more importantly, help those backyard birds survive the remainder of this frigid, snowy winter. As we travel toward late winter/early spring, our supplemental feedings are especially important, as natural food sources are dwindling and insects have yet to emerge. It's a good plan to continue feeding until leaves unfurl and you notice the presence of aphids and other early hatchers. Consider offering fruits and raisins, as robins and other returning fruit eaters search the landscape for sustenance. Offer seed more sparingly during the growing season, as nesting birds consume a diet that is up to 90% insect-based.
Bird Housing ~ While fall is generally the best time to mount new bird houses, winter to early spring is certainly appropriate. Fall-mounted housing is usually spoken for in early spring by local songbirds, who also relish the convenient shelter from winter storms that such housing provides. As migratory birds return, they'll be on the lookout for housing, as well, and will readily accept your newly-mounted nesting sites.
Before we leave the topic of backyard wildlife, let's see what's going on in the typical suburban garden, this time of year. Black oil sunflower seed and top-grade seed blends will yield the best show in town and you'll reap the rewards, with an eclectic avian display.
engage in a bit of ground-feeding... he and his cohorts
major in black oil sunflower and safflower seed.
various sparrows, as well as juncos. (This took a
bit of patience!)
Anyway, I know they're clever, annoying, opportunistic and often viewed as "pure evil" in gray fur suits, but the truth is that they're just trying to survive. While we employ baffles, weight-balanced feeders and other methods to keep these marauders from the birdseed, it actually makes sense to offer them alternative food sources, which keeps them away from the feeders (somewhat!) and busy with their own stations.
Now, back to the rest of that to-do list...
Forcing spring ~ Spring fever? Cut a few forsythia, quince or crab branches, crush the bottom 4-6" of each stem with a hammer, place in a vase of water in a brightly lit area (not full sun) and let the indoor warmth force open those tightly closed buds... enjoy a taste of spring. If you potted up a few Dutch bulbs last fall and they're still in a dark, cool spot (35-40º) for rooting, keep checking for the first signs of top growth. When they're ready, bring those potted bulbs up to the warmth and light (not full sun, so they'll last longer) of the house and enjoy your early spring flower show. After blooms fade, keep watering, apply liquid fertilizer and when temperatures moderate, plant the cluster of bulbs outdoors in a sunny, well-drained spot (leave foliage intact), adding a handful of bulb food or superphosphate in the process. Forgot to force extra bulbs? From mid-Februaury on, you'll find greenhouses and garden centers offering potted bulbs, ready to bloom in your living room.
Indoor Plants ~ Keep houseplants free of dust and dirt, by syringing or wiping leaf surfaces. As we get closer to spring and plants become more active, step up your feeding program. The longer days of mid-February to March, awaken semi-dormant indoor plants, so this is a fine to time to commence a regular feeding program. Try an organic, non-burning feed like Neptune's Harvest® liquid fish and seaweed blend to initiate strong, steady growth. Keep a watchful eye out for insect and disease activity - control where necessary. Continue adding water to humidity trays (over-sized, stone-filled saucers beneath your houseplants) on a regular basis, as cold weather and heating systems still account for dry air... plants need a steady source of humidity.
Herbs ~ Many herbs are slow to germinate, so seeds could be started anytime now, for indoor culture or the kitchen herb garden, later. Root or stem cuttings are another quick, economical way to start new herb plants. Use nothing stronger than insecticidal soap for insect control.
Summer bulbs ~ Dahlias, glads and other summer "bulbs" (many are actually tubers, rhizomes, corms, etc.) are snoozing away in your cool basement. Be sure they're still dormant and free of fungus activity, which can spread quickly. Cut out any rot, discard rotted bulbs and dust the remainder with a good fungicide, such as sulfur. Tuberous begonias should be started in peat pots during March, so they're ready to be set out in May. If dahlias sprout prematurely, pot them up, water, feed and cut stems back, periodically, as they produce new growth. You'll have strong, healthy, full plants to set out, come May, and will enjoy a longer season of color.
Indoor Bulbs ~ Amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus bulbs continue to provide color and fragrance to interior landscapes all winter long. As amaryllis blossoms fade, cut back faded flower stalks, just above bulb tops. Keep them watered, fed and in a moderately bright window until May. Treat them like houseplants and enjoy the long, straplike foliage, until you set them outside for the summer. Continue watering and feeding during their summer "vacation." Bring amaryllis into the basement late August/early September for a cool, dry, totally dark (no artificial light, either) rest period that lasts until about mid-November. Trim away dead foliage, repot, if indicated, and bring them upstairs to start the cycle all over again. Paperwhites grown in soil can be grown on until spring and planted in a sunny, well-drained site. You can also set out spent bulbs grown in stone and water, come spring... the survival of either is rather ify, especially those grown in stone, but they occasionally survive and will rebloom eventually (sometimes two years later)... "nothing ventured, nothing gained!"
Garden Tools ~ Are you harboring dirty, dull, neglected, rusty garden tools in that shed? Cleaning, removing rust and sharpening all those digging and cutting tools will ease your first garden chores of spring. Oil all moving parts and wipe down wooden handles (including wheelbarrow handles) with linseed oil to prolong the life of these tools.
Power Equipment ~ Watch for, and take advantage of, any earlybird specials for maintenance and tune-up of power mowers, rototillers, etc. This way, when or if spring finally arrives, you're ready to go!
Wood Ash ~ A great source of potassium (strengthens overall plant growth, especially effective against disease), which begins to raise soil pH, upon application. Lilacs, roses and other specimens preferring a neutral to slightly alkaline soil, will benefit from spring application of this valuable resource.
Seed Starting ~ Certain seeds, like petunia and geranium, are notoriously slow to germinate and progress toward maturity at a veritable snail’s pace. A quick check on the seed packet, in the seed catalog or with the garden center staff, should reveal which seeds require an early start.
Containers: Plastic trays, fitted with inserts are ideal and allow each plant an individual compartment in which to mature. Some plants benefit from transplanting, once or twice, getting progressively stronger. For these, broadcast in a flat and transplant when the first “true” leaves appear (first set are generic looking seed leaves). Handle seedlings by the leaves, to avoid crushing delicate stems. Peat cubes, pellets and pots, along with small plastic pots, round out the container selection, which is based upon your own preferences and past successes.
Soil: At least for the first phase, choose a soilless seed starting mixture of peat, vermiculite and perlite. Later, transplant to a light blend, which includes all of the above, in addition to an organic base (usually decomposed bark). Finely milled sphagnum moss is ideal for lightly covering the sown seeds, lessening the chance of damping-off.
Water: Tepid water, allowing the filled inserts to absorb water from the bottom until the top surface is dampened - drain excess water from the tray, immediately. As seedlings progress, light topical watering may be preferred.
Light: With very few exceptions, light is not critical for germination, but bottom heat is... which is why many of us place our covered seed trays (I lay folded grocery bags across them) atop the fridge and let the “free” heat circulate up around them, to hasten germination. Keep them lightly damp and check frequently, uncovering the flats and moving them to a light source, as germination commences. Thereafter, a sunny, south-facing window (near a source of bottom heat, if possible) will suffice, as long as the trays are turned 180º each day, to prevent leaning and stretching. Alternatively, a hooded fluorescent fixture, equipped with wide spectrum grow bulbs, should be maintained at a distance of 3-4” above seedling tops. Raise the fixture as seedlings progress, maintaining the same distance.
Bottom Heat: Thermostatically controlled heating mats and windowsill strips are widely available to hasten the germination of seedlings or the rooting of cuttings.
That’s a quick, thumbnail approach to seed starting. The garden center staff is just a phone call away, should you have cultural questions or product inquiries. The seed racks await your perusal!

..... we dream of spring's sweet breeze, its lush hues and all the potential it offers. This is the time for measuring, sketching and researching all those garden plans, so we can stride, fully prepared, into a brand new season of gardening.
If you have gardening friends and relatives, equally enthused about backyard gardening, what better Valentine's Day gift than a gift certificate to their favorite garden center. As they engage in a little armchair gardening, while waiting out the winter, how they'll appreciate your thoughtfulness!
While a trip to the garden center, with its bird feeders, bird supplies, fresh seeds, seed starting supplies and new tools can banish those winter blues, lack of time or bad weather may intervene between now and Valentine's Day, so Corliss Bros. has simplified the gift-giving process...or fax us at 978-356-1370
Mailed to you or direct to the recipient!
From the staff of Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery,to local patrons ~ a reminder... It's back to school!
Join us for March "Saturday Sessions,"
as you prepare for spring.
And to all the gardeners who look forward
to these monthly newletters,
"THINK SPRING!"
HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY!
©CBI/DJL 2009
Photos: ©Deb Lambert 2008/2009 (Other than those previously accredited.)
Thursday, January 1, 2009
'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ January 2009
January 2009..... Vol. 7, No. 1
A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert
Although it's become increasingly difficult to read the sign over the door, we're actually grateful for this snow cover. Increased soil moisture, protection of root structure and foliage - all beneficial to our dormant gardens and landscape specimens. Besides... it offers opportunity to indulge in winter sports, backyard birdwatching and photography... and a bit of exercise, while clearing walks and driveways, is a healthy bonus (for those of us with big shovels and strong constitutions).
at Corliss Bros. ~ 31 Essex Rd. Ipswich, MA
All is quiet on the shed front... not much demand
at the moment, but that will change, come spring.
don't forget to check the icicle display, just beyond
our picture windows.
intent on browsing the seeds racks, looking at bird feeders
or just getting an early start on spring gardening.
on their way in to work. (GardenAuthor's faithful
sidekick, Lucy-Maude, on her way in to "work.")
NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED...
High on almost every gardener's January agenda, is the the care and feeding of backyard wildlife. Providing supplemental food and offering an open source of water, will enable all those wild guests to better survive the rigors of winter.
Heated birdbaths and birdbath heaters are thermostatically controlled and provide that most basic element. Birds can derive water from snow, but this is tedious work, requiring they expend valuable time and energy seeking moisture. Even a shallow, black, flexible, livestock feed pan - filled once or twice a day - placed in a sunny spot, will keep water open long enough for the songbirds to satisfy their thirst. Remember, during cold, open spells of winter weather, there are no open sources of water and no snow... so, consider offering water, at least.
Why, just this morning I spied what looked like a short, stocky grackle (our big grackles are long-gone) - it's either a Rusty Blackbird or Brewer's Blackbird... more research required. For the past several days, a diminutive, female Ruby Crowned Kinglet has been darting 'round the feeders - first observed last February, later joined by the male.
Whatever you feed, choose wild bird seed wisely. Select mixtures without red milo and grains (inexpensive "supermarket" brands are usually bulked up with these cheaper fillers), to discourage less desirable birds and rodents (the type without bushy tails - ugh!). Black oil sunflower is fine all year 'round, particularly in winter. The high oil content helps to insulate feathers against the cold rains and snows of winter, as does suet. Feed straight sunflower or quality blends, high in oil sunflower content.
Safflower, thistle seed, peanut hearts, sunflower kernels, golden or white millet, striped sunflower and black oil sunflower are key ingredients in a top-quality mixed seed. Most of these components are available separately, as well... investigate the avantages of offering such specialty foods... safflower for cardinals, thistle for house finches, peanut hearts for chickadees, etc. Corliss Bros. has a huge assortment of feeders, to accommodate any bird preference and the great seed with which to fill them... year 'round!
•Cool window
•West or east light
•Tepid water
•Lightly moist
•Humidity tray
•Feed monthly, until dormancy
•After flowers fade and foliage yellows, keep dry in a cool, dark spot.
•In 2 months, after foliage has dried, repot in a 1” larger pot, with top half of tuber above soil
•Start watering in fall when new leaves appear - if they don’t, begin watering in October.
•Hey - it’s worth a try!
•No drafts/warm
•East or filtered south sun
•Tepid water
•Keep lightly moist, on a humidity tray.
•After colorful bracts have faded, trim stem back to 3-5” above soil surface, above a leaf node.
•Feed with water-soluble, organic fertilizer every two weeks.
•Set out in filtered sun, after danger of frost/back inside in September.
•After 2 months of short days/long nights, your plant should bloom.
Christmas Cactus
•East, west or south sun
•Tepid water
•Dry between waterings/humidity tray optional, but beneficial
•May bloom sporadically till spring/turn pot frequently
•Feed monthly with water-soluble, organic fertilizer
•Set out in filtered sun, after frost
•Bring back inside, just before a killing frost
•Provide about 2 months of short days/long nights for re-blooming
Less hardy than fall-planted, spring-blooming garden specimens, paperwhite narcissus bulbs are a wonderfully easy way to brighten and fragrance those dull winter days. Planting: Anchored (leave top half of bulbs exposed) in a bowl full of small pebbles or marbles and grown in water that extends up to base of the bulbs, multiple paperwhite bulbs in a decorative, ceramic container provide an impressive show. Alternatively, pot them in shallow bulb pans in well-drained potting soil - bring the soil level just above the “shoulders” of the bulbs, and position the tips about even with the pot’s edge. Timing is everything: It takes about 4 weeks from planting time, for your paperwhite bulbs to bloom. The first two weeks, foliage is produced and during the next two weeks, buds are forming. Therefore, if you start bulbs every two weeks, you’ll have a constant flower show, right through the winter. Squirrel some away: Store extra bulbs in a cool (40-55o/not in the fridge), dark, dry place and you’ll be ready for those sequential plantings. Light vs. dark: The first two weeks of the bulb forcing process should be carried out under cover of complete darkness... OR, in a bright, south-facing window. Confused, yet? Re- search this one and you will be confused, as you’ll find home growers recommending both! The reality is, that most folks, including myself, have had success with either method. Try both, during the first two weeks, and see what works best for you. After the initial two weeks, a bright room, east window, or filtered south sun, is ideal.
Truly the queen of all indoor bulbs, she is worth the time and patience she requires to thrive in your castle. Choose carefully: A firm, top-size bulb will yield 1, 2 or perhaps 3 flower stalks, with four flowers atop each. Pot: A standard depth terra cotta pot, about 2” larger than the bulb diameter, gives better stability than plastic and its porosity is beneficial. Soil: Well drained potting soil, but not a lightweight, soilless mix, further adds to the stability - in bloom, these are top-heavy flower displays. Depth: Leave about 1/3 - 1/2 of the bulb exposed, above the soil surface. Light: East or filtered south sunlight is ideal, with an average room temperature of 60-65º. Lower temperatures, especially at night, lengthen the bloom period. Water & Patience: After the initial watering (soak clay pots before use), water when dry to the touch. Remember, the average wait for flowers, is about 2 months, once potted... this is where patience comes in. After flower buds appear, keep soil moderately moist, being careful not to over-water. Re-blooming: After blossoms fade, cut stalks to within 2” of the bulb top. Leave the long, strap-like foliage intact. Keep the pot in full sun, moderately moist and apply a water-soluble, organic fertilizer (Neptune’s Harvest®, etc.) every 2 weeks.
Want butterflies, hummingbirds and various other flying jewels to frequent your yard? Plant it and they will come! Periodicals, like "Birds and Blooms," and many books on the subject, await your perusal in our book shop. They'll outline the plants required and steps needed to create a real backyard sanctuary. Plan a trip to a local butterfly house this winter ~ children of all ages will be amazed and inspired to start their own butterfly garden.
Backyard Analysis
As weather, footing and time permits, walk through the home landscape, checking for potential hazards. Wild winter storms and fluctuating temperatures can lead to split trunks, dangling limbs and misshapen evergreens. While you can probably attend to tying or guying up small evergreens and trimming small limbs, leave any major chores for your certified arborist. As footing permits, arborists generally have more time during winter to attend to such unexpected problems. Some may even offer a winter discount. Dormant fruit and shade trees are not subject to invasion by disease and insects, this time of year, making winter ideal for pruning.
Check for deer damage and that of other critters, as well. Mice, voles and rabbits may chew on tender young bark, girdling tree trunks. Hardware cloth guards, or perforated plastic trunk guards, should be sufficient to halt such damage. There are many commercial products, using natural scent deterrents and oils, to discourage deer and other damaging backyard visitors.
And your last bit of analysis, involves casting a critical eye about your winter landscape. Be honest. Is there a good balance of deciduous and evergreen material? Have you included plants that provide a splash of color, either through persistent fruits or vibrant stem color? Exfoliating bark? Great hardscaping and focal points? No? Back to the armchair for a serious plan.
Photo: ©CBI 200831 Essex Road (Rte. 133) Ipswich, MA
www.corlissbros.com
978-356-5422
January 2009 'Corliss Clips'
- finis -
©DJL/CBI 2009
Photos (other than those labeled): ©Deb Lambert 2008/2009
Monday, December 22, 2008
'Corliss Clips' Extra / Holiday Gift Ideas... Part 2









makes a great gift and allows that favorite gardener
to select their own present. They may just save it to
purchase nursery stock next spring!
If you started here, just click to see what gift ideas
you missed over at 'GardenAuthor'.
©Deb Lambert/CBI 2008
























