'Corliss Clips' Blog

'CORLISS CLIPS'/February 2012/Page 1

2012-02-01T04:30:00.000-05:00

(Winter comes to Ipswich, MA)

Corliss Clips
February 2012 ......Page 1

February To-Do List

Enjoy the winter
Feed the birds
Read seed catalogs
And think spring!

While this winter has been unusually mild and

almost devoid of snow cover, the following

views are quite familiar to those of us who've

experienced a typical New England winter.

Rating Your Winter Landscape

“The Emperor has no clothes” or, for the purposes of this discussion, your deciduous shrubs and trees have no leaves... which makes February an ideal time for a landscape reality check. Is it really all that it can be? An honest assessment, about the beauty of your own winter landscape, may reveal some glaring needs.

While almost any landscape is presentable under a fresh layer of snow, it’s the January thaw and snow-less periods during winter that highlight what may be lacking. It seems the most attractive gardens, particularly in winter, are those that merge deciduous and evergreen plant material, in a pleasing blend. This natural contrast is not really that original... we pay homage to the mixed woodlands of New England, in striving to incorporate such diverse elements within our home environs.

(A bay, held firmly within winter's icy grip)

('Blue Princess' Holly/Photo©S.W. Haddock, Jr. 2006)

When you select a deciduous specimen for your landscape, think beyond lush blooms and seasonal foliage. While such factors are certainly important during the growing season, what will that plant add to the winter scene? Does it have a pleasing winter outline, interesting bark texture, striking stem color, or persistent fruits?

Let’s start with winter fruits and berries. Nothing brightens a drab winter garden like the scarlet fruit of winterberry, a deciduous member of the Ilex (holly) genus. And nothing delights non-migratory songbirds, especially mockingbirds, more than the winterberry. One male plant will pollinate several adjacent females, to ensure berry set. Prefer evergreen holly? With the same pollination requirements as above, the ‘Blue’ hollies (Ilex meserveae spp. ) offer scarlet berries, against deep bluish-green, glossy foliage.

Above: A wooden adirondack chair, amid mixed shrubs
and evergreens, creates a tranquil winter scene.

Above: Seaside scenario... A lobster trap,
Gloucester fisherman and lighthouse replica
are suitable for a bay-side garden, which takes
on a new dimension under a fresh blanket of snow.

Above: Several spruces, along with deciduous shrubs,

provide focal points and shelter for feeding birds.

(February continues on Page 2)

©DJL/CBI 2012... Unless otherwise accredited, all photos/this page, ©CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/February 2012/Page 2

2012-02-01T04:25:00.000-05:00

Corliss Clips
February 2012 ...... Page 2

More winter fruit...
For the sake of this discussion, we’re concentrating on those fruits that linger well into the winter, sometimes until early spring. And nothing fits this description better than certain members of the genus Viburnum. Years of cultivating the following three species, has taught me the value of these plants in a well-planned landscape. They all possess showy, flat panicles of white each spring, maple-like foliage, burgundy fall color and red fruit that begins to color up in late summer/early fall, and which may persist until earliest spring.

Over the course of many seasons, European Cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus), American Cranberrybush (Viburnum trilobum) and V. trilobum ‘Wentworthi’ have produced with such abundance that berries not eaten by backyard birds, during the winter, were devoured by returning migratory songbirds in earliest spring. Suspended from bare branches, like so many dried raisins, these berries are an essential food source for robins, catbirds and other fruit eaters.

The best photo I ever took, was after an early spring storm, when each cluster of remaining fruit was encased in ice, glistening like rubies. And talk about color... add in a few marauding cardinals and you have a true winter spectacle. While the above specimens average 8-15’ in height, you may find the ‘Bailey Compact’ form of Viburnum trilobum (5-6’ high & wide) more in scale with the smaller suburban landscape.

No mention of winter fruit would be complete without considering the tenacity of certain flowering crabs to hold onto their fall harvest - all the way through winter. Malus encompasses such bearers of persistent fruit as ‘Cardinal’, M. sargentii, M. sargentii ‘Tina’ and ‘Sugar Tyme’. Not quite as decorative as lingering viburnum fruits, these tiny crabapples are a muted spot of color, offering valuable sustenance to the birds and, by extension, providing us with color “on the wing.”

Stem Color & Interesting Bark
Red and yellow twig dogwoods attain brilliant stem color, which lasts from fall through early spring... exactly the splash of backyard color for which we long on a gray winter’s day. Cornus alba ‘Bud’s Yellow’ and crimson stemmed ‘Elegantissima’ may be personal favorites, at 6-8’, but look to more compact forms, such as C. alba ‘Bailhalo’, at 5-6’, for the smaller garden.

The graceful, verdant stems of Broom, or Cytissus, are a surprising oasis of green in the middle of winter. Our native witch hazel has interesting branch structure and odd, brown nutlike fruits, relished by birds. Birch (Betula) bark may be brilliant white, with maturity, or may be an exfoliating variety that ranges from tan to white. (Exfoliating: The sloughing off and peeling back of older bark reveals attractive, sometimes startling, inner layers for remarkable color contrast.) Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum), Stewartia, Plane Tree (Platanus), Katsura (Cercidiphyllum), Seven-Son Flower (Heptacodium) and Diablo Ninebark (Physocarpus) are all prized for their handsome exfoliation habits.

The Golden Weeping Willow (Salix alba ‘Tristis’) has a golden-hued trunk, seen to full advantage in winter. Oaks (Quercus) develop wonderfully rugged, craggy bark, with age. I once grew a Blue Beech, or American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) whose charcoal gray, fluted, “muscled" trunk was a fine winter accent.

Last, but not least, the evergreens...
Broadleaf evergreens offer glossy, green foliage all year, with some sporting eye-catching leaf variegations. Some, like the ‘P.J.M.’ Rhododendron and many Euonymus hybrids, are blushed with burgundy until early spring.

Needled evergreens provide deep green, silvery, bluish or golden year ‘round foliage... making them particularly important in winter, as their deciduous counterparts stand amongst them, awaiting next season’s foliage. From the precise pyramidal habit of the blue-green Blue Point Juniper, to the fairly irregular form of the Japanese Black Pine, there is a plethora of needled beauties in a wide array of textures, colors and shapes, from which to choose. And the birds will thank you as well, for many of these specimens will provide shelter, nesting sites and even food sources.

The long and short of it...
In the end, it’s quite hard to neatly pigeonhole any of these plants into any one category. There’s a blurring of the lines, when we attempt to do so. The basic structure, or “bones,” of a garden must be based on not only a well-conceived plan, hardscaping and structural elements, but also on the very structure of your plants. Consider ornamental grasses, as you seek variety and texture.

Remember, as we gardeners in Zone 5 are well aware, winter is a long, often colorless, proposition. The good news? It’s well within our purview to make those gardens shine, most especially during the depths of winter. Sharpen up that pencil, walk your landscape, daydream from the window and visualize next winter’s scenic view. (February continues on Page 3)

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/February 2012/Page 3

2012-02-01T04:20:00.000-05:00

Seed Catalog Dreams... Summer's Sweet Harvest!

Corliss Clips
February 2012 ....... Page 3

Sowing Pea Seeds

Seed Starting...
Certain seeds, like petunia and geranium, are notoriously slow to germinate and progress toward maturity at a veritable snail’s pace. A quick check on the seed packet, in the seed catalog or with the garden center staff, should reveal which seeds require an early start.

Flamboyant Poppies

Containers: Plastic trays, fitted with inserts are ideal and allow each plant an individual compartment in which to mature. Some plants benefit from transplanting, once or twice, getting progressively stronger. For these, broadcast in a flat and transplant when the first “true” leaves appear (first set are generic looking seed leaves). Handle seedlings by the leaves, to avoid crushing delicate stems. Peat cubes, pellets and pots, along with small plastic pots, round out the container selection, which is based upon your own preferences. Soil: At least for the first phase, choose a soilless seed starting mixture of peat, vermiculite and perlite. Later, transplant to a light blend, which includes all of the above, in addition to an organic base (usually decomposed bark). Finely milled sphagnum moss is ideal for lightly covering the
sown seeds, lessening the chance of damping-off.

Pole Bean Seeds

Water: Tepid water, allowing the filled inserts to absorb water from the bottom until the top surface is dampened - drain excess water from the tray, immediately. As seedlings progress, light, topical watering may be preferred. Light: With very few exceptions, light is not critical for germination, but bottom heat is... which is why many of us place our covered seed trays (I lay folded grocery bags across them) atop the fridge and let the “free” heat circulate up around them, to hasten germination. Keep them lightly damp and check frequently, uncovering the flats and moving them to a light source, as germination commences. Thereafter, a sunny, south-facing window (near a source of bottom heat, if possible) will suffice, as long as the trays are turned 180º each day, to prevent leaning and stretching. Alternatively, a hooded fluorescent fixture, equipped with grow bulbs, wide spectrum or cool white bulbs (a combination of 2 different types usually works well) should be maintained at a distance of 3-4" above seedling tops. Raise the fixture as seedlings progress, maintaining the same distance. February’s delights live within the pages of seed catalogs - glossy, technicolor dreams of possibilities for a brand new growing season.

Dianthus Seeds

Bottom Heat: Thermostatically controlled heating mats and windowsill strips are widely available to hasten the germination of seedlings or the rooting of cuttings.

That’s a quick, thumbnail approach to seed starting. The garden center staff is just a phone call away, should you have cultural questions or product inquiries. The seed racks await your perusal! (February newsletter continues on page 4...)

All Photo Credits, on this page... ©National Garden Bureau

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/February 2012/Page 4

2012-02-01T04:15:00.000-05:00

Valentine's Day Reminder... February 14th!

Corliss Clips
February 2012 ......Page 4

Remember, the birds can still use an assist, so keep a good supply of seed and suet on hand - it's a long while before insects and natural food sources become available to those feathered friends. Take an outing to your favorite garden center, to stock up on the essentials. Your shopping list might look something like this...

Shopping List...
for those Backyard Birds!

√ Premium seed blend
√ Safflower seed for cardinals
√ Black oil sunflower seed
√ Thistle seed for the finches
√ Suet cage and extra suet cakes
√ Droll Yankee tube feeder
√ Dehydrated corn for squirrels
√ Birdbath heater

Give the gift of gardening, this year.
A gift certificate will set your Valentine
to dreaming of spring, and all the wonderful
plants that would be just perfect for their spring gardens.

Timely reminders...
•Are your garden tools ready for 2012? Clean, remove rust, oil metal surfaces, paint or linseed oil the handles... replace handles, if necessary.
•Clean pruner and lopper blades with mineral spirits, to remove dried sap or pitch. Use steel wool to remove rust. Sharpen blades and oil all moving parts.
•As forced bulbs begin to sprout in that cool, dark spot in the cellar, start to bring them upstairs where they’ll provide a much-needed glimpse of spring, over the next few weeks. If it’s still too early, at least check them for water.
•Got wood ash? This spring, scatter this potassium-rich resource around lilacs, roses and other specimens that thrive in a sweeter than normal soil.
•To keep those indoor plants healthy and thriving, provide humidity trays beneath the pots and group them together to share the increased humidity. Feed with Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer® every 2-4 weeks. Inspect for insects and disease and treat with one of the safer controls, if needed.

Forecast: Winter Continues...

As always, a special thanks to the Corliss Bros.
staff for the excellent photography:
File photos ©CBI 2012

Stay with us for a brand new season of gardening! New introductions, new hybrids... 2012 is shaping up as a most exciting season. Meanwhile, keep up with that armchair gardening - it’s time well spent!

Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery
31 Essex Road (Rte. 133) Ipswich, MA

978-356-5422

February 2012 'Corliss Clips'
- finis -

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/January 2012/Page 1

2012-01-01T04:00:00.000-05:00

Corliss Clips

A Newsletter for Fellow Gardening Enthusiasts

January 2012..... Page 1

The Joys of January

If perusing seed catalogs, tending to
the backyard birds and caring for in-
door plants is not enough to occupy
you during this winter-enforced dor-
mant season, consider the joys of in-
door bulb culture.

Amaryllis

Truly the queen of all indoor bulbs, she is worth the time and patience she requires to thrive in your castle. Choose carefully: A firm, top-size bulb will yield 1, 2 or perhaps 3 flower stalks, with four flowers atop each. Pot: A standard depth terra cotta pot, about 2” larger than the bulb diameter, gives better stability than plastic and its porosity is beneficial. Soil: Well drained potting soil, but not a lightweight, soilless mix, further adds to the stability - in bloom, these are top-heavy flower displays. Depth: Leave about 1/3 - 1/2 of the bulb exposed, above the soil surface. Light: East or filtered south sunlight is ideal, with an average room temperature of 60-65º. Lower temperatures, especially at night, lengthen the bloom period. Water & Patience: After the initial watering (soak clay pots before use), water when dry to the touch. Remember, the average wait for flowers, is about 2 months, once potted... this is where patience comes in. After flower buds appear, keep soil moderately moist, being careful not to over-water. Re- blooming: After blossoms fade, cut stalks to within 2” of the bulb top. Leave the long, strap-like foliage intact. Keep the pot in full sun, moderately moist and apply a water-soluble, organic fertilizer (Neptune’s Harvest®, etc.) every 2 weeks.
(continued on Page 2)

And so ends another holiday season... Guests have evaporated, along with the champagne. Paper party hats are in the recycling bin. The undecorated Christmas tree stands at attention in the snow, providing shelter for backyard birds. Glass ornaments are nestled in their boxes, waiting in the attic for next Christmas. A fire crackles in the wood stove, while you gaze out at a winter landscape that looks like a Currier and Ives print. From the big, comfy chair, you ponder all those New Year’s resolutions you made last night. Finally, your attention is drawn to a stack of 2008 seed catalogs and you settle back to begin a most enjoyable winter season of armchair gardening... May we all enjoy good health and a year filled with gardening successes!

(continued on Page2)

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/January 2012/Page 2

2012-01-01T03:45:00.000-05:00

Corliss Clips
January 2012.......... Page 2

(continued from Page 1)
Outdoors: After danger of frost, gradually introduce your bulb, pot and all, to a sunny position and partially bury the clay pot in the garden soil for stability and moisture exchange. Continue the same watering and feeding schedule, throughout the summer. The royal rest: At summer’s end, the rest period for our queen of bulbs begins. Leaving the amaryllis foliage intact, slip the bulb from the pot, shake off the soil (alternatively, tip the pot sideways) and let it rest in a cool, dark, dry area for 2 months. Happily ever after: After this, trim dead leaves just above the bulb’s neck, give the roots a trim (trimmed roots immediately send out branching root structure, into the new soil) and pot up, as outlined, earlier. With all that stored up energy, your amaryllis should re-bloom in about 2 months. Like I said, amaryllis is well worth the time and patience required... she’ll present a window display fit for a king - or queen!

Paperwhites
Less hardy than fall-planted, spring-blooming garden specimens, paperwhite narcissus bulbs are a wonderfully easy way to brighten and fragrance those dull winter days. Planting: Anchored (leave top half of bulbs exposed) in a bowl full of small pebbles or marbles and grown in water that extends up to base of the bulbs, multiple paperwhite bulbs in a decorative, ceramic container provide an impressive show. Alternatively, pot them in shallow bulb pans in well-drained potting soil - bring the soil level just above the “shoulders” of the bulbs, and position the tips about even with the pot’s edge. Timing is everything: It takes about 4 weeks from planting time, for your paperwhite bulbs to bloom. The first two weeks, foliage is produced and during the next two weeks, buds are forming. Therefore, if you start bulbs every two weeks, you’ll have a constant flower show, right through the winter. Squirrel some away: Store extra bulbs in a cool (40-55º/not in the fridge), dark, dry place and you’ll be ready for those sequential plantings. Light vs. dark: The first two weeks of the bulb forcing process should be carried out under cover of complete darkness... OR, in a bright, south-facing window. Confused, yet? Re- search this one and you will be confused, as you’ll find home growers recommending both! The reality is, that most folks, including myself, have had success with either method. Try both, during the first two weeks, and see what works best for you. After the initial two weeks, a bright room, east window, or filtered south sun, is ideal.

Cooler room temperatures will prolong the flowering period. Recycling: Actually, Narcissus tazetta originated in the Mediterranean region (currently, the majority of bulbs are shipped in from Israel) and is listed as hardy only down to 35º (perennial in Zones 9-11). Here, in the north, most folks toss them in the compost bin, after flowers fade; however, nothing ventured, nothing gained. I know a gardener who grows her paperwhites in soil, cuts back the spent flowers, continues to water and apply liquid fertilizer and, come spring, plants the bulbs in clumps in a very protected area. As the foliage dies back, food is stored away in the bulbs. Eventually they re-flower, although not usually until the second year. I’ve also heard of gardeners storing away bulbs (in a cool, dark place), after a little liquid feeding, with foliage intact. They report that the bulbs re-bloomed a year later. For fragrance, abundant bloom and cultivars in white, yellow and bicolors, paperwhites are just what we need to chase away those winter blues.

Backyard Analysis
As weather, footing and time permits, walk through the home landscape, checking for potential hazards. Wild winter storms and fluctuating temperatures can lead to split trunks, dangling limbs and misshapen evergreens. While you can probably attend to tying or guying up small evergreens and trimming small limbs, leave any major chores for your certified arborist. As footing permits, arborists generally have more time during winter to attend to such unexpected problems. Some may even offer a winter discount. Dormant fruit and shade trees are not subject to invasion by disease and insects, this time of year, making winter ideal for pruning.

Check for deer damage and that of other critters, as well. Mice, voles and rabbits may chew on tender young bark, girdling tree trunks. Deer netting, hardware cloth guards, or perforated plastic trunk guards, should be sufficient to halt such damage. There are many commercial products, using natural scent deterrents and oils, to discourage deer and other damaging backyard visitors.

And your last bit of analysis involves casting a critical eye about your winter landscape. Be honest. Is there a good balance of deciduous and evergreen material? Have you included plants that provide a splash of color, either through persistent fruits or vibrant stem color? Exfoliating bark? Great hardscaping and focal points? No? Back to the armchair for a serious plan. (continued on Page 3)

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/January 2012/Page 3

2012-01-01T03:30:00.000-05:00

(black oil sunflower seed)

Corliss Clips
January 2012...... Page 3

(thistle seed)

For the birds: Are your reasons altruistic or have you ulterior motives, when it comes to feeding the birds? In other words, are you offering wild bird food simply to help those backyard birds survive the winter? Or, are you tempting songbirds with well-stocked feeders just to view them from the comfort of your warm home? It probably doesn’t matter, and most of us are feeding birds for both reasons - either way, the birds win! Preparing the feast: Start with plenty of suet. Birds need the warmth and insulation against the wet and cold, that fat provides. Offer commercial suet cakes, raw suet or homemade recipes.

(striped sunflower seed)

What seed should we offer? Black oil sunflower, striped sunflower, safflower seed and thistle. Basic blends include such staples as cracked corn, black oil sunflower, striped sunflower, and golden millet. Premium blends usually contain the aforementioned basics plus varying amounts of peanuts, white millet, safflower and thistle seed.

(safflower seed)

“You get what you pay for” is quite true when it comes to wild birdseed. “Cheap” mixes usually include red millet and milo, picked over and thrown out by songbirds. The clientele for these “cheap eats” usually consists of pigeons and the least desirable members of the Rodentia family.

(premium seed blend)

Who likes what? If you want one type of seed that will please everyone, choose black oil sunflower. All the birds approve of this one and its high oil content helps insulate birds against the cold. Striped sunflower is equally popular, is higher in fiber than the oil type, but much lower in essential oil... split 50/50 with the black oil sunflower, or offer it in one of the many commercial seed blends. Safflower is a medium, hard-shelled white seed and is relished by cardinals, blue jays, mourning doves, towhees, woodpeckers, grosbeaks, chickadees and nuthatches.

(a basic seed blend)

The small, black thistle seed is enjoyed by all finches, redpolls and pine siskins. Cracked corn appears in most of the mixes, since most birds eat at least just a little, mainly as a digestive aid. To attract the widest variety of birds, choose one of the better quality blends, sure to please the most finicky of backyard birds.

What feeders are best? For ground-feeding birds, like cardinals, white-throated sparrows and mourning doves, choose a platform feeder - raised up, off the ground, on a low pole. With a wooden frame and screen bottom, seed stays relatively dry and birds are safer from predators. Try just offering safflower or a safflower/thistle blend, neither of which is attractive to squirrels.

(thistle tube/finch's favorite)

Wooden or metal feeders, with a large reservoir, are equipped with large perches or landing areas, suitable for larger birds like cardinals. You may want to select a model with weighted perches, adjustable to preclude squirrel feeding.

(sunflower tube/for all small birds)

Small, clinging birds do well with the tube feeders, some of which sport weighted perches or heavy wire mesh that keep the squirrels at bay. Look to the "Squirrel Buster" line of feeders to foil squirrels, as well as "Heritage Farms" hopper-style feeders with adjustable, weighted perches. You'll also find that "Audubon" feeders with various spinning mechanisms or collapsible perches help deter those little furry, gray architects. We have hanging and pole-mounted baffles and even wire cages to protect against squirrel damage, while allowing small birds complete access.

(birdbath with heater=open water all winter)

Keep them busy! Attach dried ears of corn to one of those “whirlygig” squirrel feeders. It may be frustrating for them, but it sure is entertaining for us. Besides, it keeps squirrels occupied and away from feeders, at least for part of the day. Water! So important to your backyard birds’ survival. A thermostatically controlled birdbath heater or heated birdbath will ensure an open source of water all winter long. Just clean and refill as needed.

(Ilex verticillata 'Jolly Red'/Winterberry)

Winterberry: Did you remember to plant winter fruits for the birds? If not, add some next spring! It will brighten up that winter landscape and provide your birds with a valuable food source. (continued on Page 4)

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS'/January 2012/Page 4

2012-01-01T03:15:00.000-05:00

Corliss Clips
January 2012 ...... Page 4

It’s January... do you know where your Christmas tree is? Hopefully, it’s lashed to a fence, adjacent to the bird feeding station, providing songbirds with shelter from winter storms and marauding hawks. Roll pine cones in a peanut butter/cornmeal/birdseed mixture, and hang them in the tree for an extra treat. Suspend a suet cake in a sturdy suet cage. String and hang garlands of cranberries. Cut tree boughs make good winter protection for perennials, but the early snow cover is probably sufficient, this year. Finally, next spring, grind the remains of that tree and spread it around the landscape as mulch... all great lessons in backyard recycling!

Holiday Plants, After the Holidays...

Poinsettia
•No drafts/warm
•East or filtered south sun
•Tepid water
•Keep lightly moist, on a humidity tray.
•After colorful bracts have faded, trim stem back to 3-5” above soil surface, above a leaf node.
•Feed with water-soluble, organic fertilizer every two weeks.
•Set out in filtered sun, after danger of frost/back inside in September.
•After 2 months of short days/long nights, your plant should bloom.

Cyclamen
•Cool window
•West or east light
•Tepid water
•Lightly moist
•Humidity tray
•Feed monthly, until dormancy
•After flowers fade and foliage yellows, keep dry in a cool, dark spot.
•In 2 months, after foliage has dried, repot in a 1” larger pot, with top half of tuber above soil
•Start watering in fall when new leaves appear - if they don’t, begin watering in October.
•Hey - it’s worth a try!

Christmas Cactus
•East, west or south sun
•Tepid water
•Dry between waterings/humidity tray optional, but beneficial
•May bloom sporadically till spring/turn pot frequently
•Feed monthly with water-soluble, organic fertilizer
•Set out in filtered sun, after frost
•Bring back inside, just before a killing frost/has almost always budded at this point
•Provide about 2 months of short days/long nights for re-blooming

Stay with us for a brand new season of gardening! New introductions, new hybrids... 2012 is shaping up as a most exciting season. Meanwhile, keep up with that armchair gardening - it’s time well spent!

A special thanks to the Corliss Bros. staff for the excellent photography: photos©CBI 2012

Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery
31 Essex Road (Rte. 133) Ipswich, MA

978-356-5422

January 2012 'Corliss Clips'
- finis -

©DJL/CBI 2012

'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ DECEMBER 2011

2011-11-27T02:00:00.000-05:00

Corliss Clips
December 2011

Our Special Holiday Issue

LOST... Add holiday preparations to the hustle and bustle of daily life, and some of the joy and spirit of the season, seem to get lost. We modestly offer you this solution...

FOUND... Christmas in the country... living or fresh-cut trees, greens, lights, decorations, bows, ribbon, gifts for everyone on your list - especially those gardeners! Let’s explore...

The Plan...
In the spirit of the season, we’ll endeavor to share the warmth, goodwill and cheer that this holiday season brings. We’ll also endeavor to share some unique gift ideas, for your favorite gardening enthusiast. I hope you enjoy this expanded edition. So, pour a mug of hot chocolate, settle back in the big comfy chair and ponder your December.

Let your mind drift, as you anticipate decking the halls, trimming the tree, cooking homemade treats and the shining eyes of rosy-cheeked children, about to discover where the wrapped gifts are stashed. Before you break free from this preholiday, zen-like state, let’s initiate a game plan. Given the unpredictable nature of New England weather, it’s logical to embellish the outside of our abodes, before facing whatever the wintry winds of December might blow our way. Even the most enterprising gardener will appreciate the wide array of fresh wreaths and greens, colorful dogwood stems, berries and cones awaiting inspection at the garden center - after all, you can only swipe so much from your backyard, before it’s noticed!

Before heading into the Christmas shop, you’ll want to choose the “star” of that holiday show...

The cut tree - Every year, Corliss offers exceptional values on lightly sheared cut balsam trees. Also exceptional is the quality of the premium cut balsam and Fraser Firs. Recycle cut trees as bird shelter or remove the boughs for winter mulching of tender plants. Hands-free shopping, as you view all sides of these beautiful, suspended trees...

Nordmann Fir

Norway Spruce

Dwarf Alberta Spruce

(Resident Spruce Inspector)

The living tree - A great family tradition... a living “journal” of Christmas-Past, enjoyed by generations to come. Planting sites should be open and sunny, allowing enough space for the mature size of these living Christmas trees. Choose from the glossy-green Nordmann Fir (matures at 40-80’ tall by 20-30’ wide), Fraser Fir(30-40’ high by 20-25’ wide), deep green Norway Spruce (40-60’ by 25-30’ wide) or the slow-growing Dwarf Alberta Spruce (well-suited for containers, small landscapes and conifer gardens). And new this season, is the ‘Baby Blue Eyes’ Spruce. With its smaller size (10-15’ high by 10’wide) and striking blue needles, this spruce is ideal for screening, mixed plantings or as a specimen. Deer resistance adds to its appeal.

Prepare the planting hole, keeping soil unfrozen in a garage until planting time. Stuff the hole with salt marsh hay and cover with plywood. After enjoying the tree indoors for 5-7 days, plant in its final location, following recommended planting procedures.

Oh, and while you’re out in the garden center, surrounded by the pungent smell of balsam and pine, take stock of the aforementioned fresh greens and wreaths. Here’s a sample of what you’ll find...

Foreground: a variety of greens, berries and branches,
perfect for creating arrangements, swags, roping or
whatever your inner designer can dream up!
Background: Kissing Balls... for porches, doorways
or lampposts.

Red and Yellow Twig Dogwood & the soft
gray of lichen-covered branches.

Fragrant Balsam Boughs

Blue Spruce Tips

Native White Pine

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)

Boxwood

A Feast for the Birds.....
He tilts his black-capped head and fastens an eye on me,
“Is the diner open for business, yet...Chick-a-dee-dee-dee-dee-dee?
The birds’ town crier, in a bluejay suit, issues his clarion call,
Soon, flocks of birds come drifting in, waiting on the wall.
Feeders filled, suet cages packed, the water’s fresh and clean,
Winter’s feast will last until the trees have once again turned green.
Safflower for cardinals, thistle for finches and sunflower for all,
Roosting boxes and bird houses give shelter from the squall.

‘Tis the season to introduce a friend
to the joys of backyard birding!

Decorative birdbaths ~ perfect for gifts!

Bird feeders of every description... tubular,
platform, squirrel-foiling, suet cages,
hummingbird and oriole feeders... another
great gift idea?

How about an acorn feeder?

Birdbath with thermostatically controlled heater,
provides open water all winter long.

All birds need extra fat and energy in the cold, wet
New England winter. Sturdy cages keep suet in place
and available for those backyard songbirds.
(OK, I've never seen a cardinal on one - he evidently
wandered onto the "set.")

When it comes to our feathered friends, the housing
market has remained strong, despite the current economy.
Good for your backyard friends, or as a thoughtful gift for
a fellow bird enthusiast.

Enjoy the warmth of holiday plants... complete your decorating with fresh Poinsettias, Cyclamen, Christmas Cactus and Norfolk Island Pine. And, don’t forget the Amaryllis and Paperwhite Narcissus bulbs!

Amaryllis... still a good variety to choose from ~
boxed or loose... large and jumbo, in a nice
assortment of vibrant colors.

Norfolk Island Pine... an indoor plant that makes
a nice little Christmas tree and is a handsome
addition to your indoor collection.

Christmas Cactus and Cyclamen are perfect for cool
windows, with early or late sun.

Poinsettias in the traditional, velvety red. While
Poinsettias need moderate moisture and a draft-free
zone, these are some our "great pretenders" that will
thrive in any light or temperature... and please, hold
the water. Perfect for your interior decorating!

Let's move to the Christmas Shop, for a few ideas
and a little inspiration.....

A wide assortment of ornaments...

Truly unique pieces!

Wheelbarrows and garden carts top off this
particular Christmas Shop display... they make
an exciting gift for that special gardener.

These kissing balls can be packed away and enjoyed
for many years to come!

Ribbon of every color and type imaginable...
indoor, outdoor... by the yard, if you're feeling
creative. Or, opt for a custom-made bow, from
one of our designers.

Plain silk Christmas trees, ready for our lights
and ornaments. Or, maybe you'll discover something
like this beauty... all ready to go home!

Luscious-looking faux berries adorn silk wreaths.

All sorts of evergreens are represented in this
silk wreath collection... perfect over a fireplace,
or for spots where fresh greens would dry excessively
and present a fire hazard.

More silk impostors... buy them once and
decorate with impunity (and abandon, too!)
for seasons to come!

Sprigs of faux berries add height, color and
interest to any indoor arrangement.

Before the cut trees are suspended for easy viewing,
kissing balls swing in the breeze,
awaiting your inspection.

No words are necessary, as you scroll through
examples of the handsome wreaths produced
by our talented designers.

A Visual Feast for All
Only yesterday, we inhaled the unexpected warmth of an Indian summer. Today, a sudden snow squall reminds us that winter’s at the door. The holidays are almost upon us, with rounds of visits, warmth and cheer. Awoken from our dreams of summer past, we ready ourselves and our abodes for the festivities. Fresh greens, roping and swags are twined through banisters, arched over entrances and hung on doors. Twinkling white lights and velvety red bows strike just the right festive note.

Like a picture-postcard, the facade of an old colonial home is simply, but effectively, decorated. Verdant balsam wreaths, with bright red bows, grace every window. By evening, a single candle illuminates each one. Potted spruce, decorated for the holidays, usher guests to the front door. A glance at the garden shed reveals a handmade grapevine wreath, sporting twigs of winterberry, pine cones and assorted natural decorations. A whirring of wings and flurry of activity indicates the bird feeding station is open for the winter season. Hand-strung cranberry garlands, pine cones packed with a seed and suet mixture... even the birds will partake of a holiday feast. There really is something satisfying in providing holiday treats for our feathered friends, as well.

But, I digress... we were about to ring the doorbell. Open swings the door and the home exhales its holiday breath - a sweet, yet savory, fragrance that is a mere hint of the good things to come. As the golden light spills from the door, across the porch, we glimpse a festive interior. An undercurrent of fragrant balsam, from the tree, enhances the whole experience. The fact that some of the indoor greens, wreaths and roping are actually silk (some the newest “pretenders” are identical to the real thing), may escape you. They’re safer and easier to work with indoors and are recycled from year to year, which makes your initial investment a wise one. Many artificial greens are rugged enough for outdoor use. Add natural decorations, like pine cones, and sprigs of real or artificial berries and no one’s the wiser.

While selections grow and become more varied, from year to year, both natural and artificial greens have one other thing in common... if you wait too long, they’ll be gone! So, while it’s fun to engage in this little holiday scenario, get thee to the garden center for the best decorating choices of this short season. Cut trees, fresh greens and wreaths, ribbon by the yard or roll, bows, sprigs of berries, cones, lights, candles - everything to complete your holiday home awaits your selection at the garden center... indoors and out!

Always in good taste...

If gifts for gardeners top your list,
Corliss is definitely your one-stop shop.
Remember, gift certificates are just
a phone call away... 978-356-5422

Just another word about living Christmas
trees ~ a fine family tradition.....

May your backyard gardens stand upright and strong,
May your family and friends stay snug and warm.
As we rest from our labors, may we take the time
To enjoy our surroundings and let nature shine!
Wishing you all the joys of this holiday season!

Follow the postings, over at "GardenAuthor" during December, for lots of creative and unusual gift ideas for all those gardeners and backyard naturalists. From gloves, hats and bird feeders, to compost bins, wheelbarrows and garden tools, we'll be perusing the possibilities...

Here's wishing you Happy Holidays,
a Happy New Year and a successful
growing season in 2011!

Note: The above is a reprise from 2009, so some of our current selections will vary from those depicted. However, it does give an accurate feeling of the indoor and outdoor ambiance of the garden center. As for that heavenly pungent balsam fragrance? You'll just have to drop by!

Text: ©DJL/CBI 2009
Photos: ©CBI 2007/©Deb Lambert 2008

Winterizing the Landscape & November Gardening

2011-10-27T04:05:00.001-04:00

No pretty pictures this time, just lots of in-depth

information to put your gardens and lawns to bed

for the winter dormant season ahead...

Fall Planting ~ Although fall is an ideal planting season, he who hesitates will have to wait for spring. Most of the remaining stock will be whisked away into winter storage, quite soon. While planting can be successful until the ground freezes, provide supplemental waterings and winter protection measures, as needed.

Feed ~ What? Feed in November? Your landscape appreciates a big Thanksgiving feast, as much as you do... so, no excuses if you haven’t had time this fall. I’ve often fed as late as Thanksgiving and with spectacular results. Do not feed roses and perennials with a complete fertilizer like Plant-tone (lime, gypsum, greensand, kelp meal and rock phosphate are OK/but leave this for mid to late November on roses & perennials) at this time, or they may break dormancy, losing hardiness.

The rest of the landscape will respond next spring to the food stored away this fall. Plant-Tone®, an organic slow-release fertilizer, combined with rock phosphate, kelp meal and greensand is lightly tilled into the soil (follow package quantities) at the dripline, preferably just before a soaking rain. If feeding acid-loving plants, substitute Holly-tone for the Plant-tone. Pelletized lime to sweeten soil and garden gypsum to increase drainage are applied at this time, if indicated. Wood ash* is a valuable resource, with a 5-gallon bucket equaling a 50# bag of lime... spread cautiously to avoid raising the soil pH to extremely high levels.* Roses (6.5-7.0 pH), lilacs (6.0-7.5) Rose of Sharon (6.0-7.5) and many spireas (6.0-7.5) are examples of plants needing a sweeter soil than many of our backyards are providing. For most of us, an annual fall liming keeps the pH at the right level for such plants. A home soil test kit, or one performed by UMass through their Amherst soil lab (http://www.umass.edu/soiltest/), will provide the definitive answer about your soil pH.

Feeding trees located in beds ~ scatter the appropriate amount of complete, balanced fertilizer (Plant-tone or Holly-tone, depending on the pH needs of each specimen) at the dripline... a little inside and beyond that dripline, at the rate of 1# per inch of caliper (trunk diameter at waist height). If trees are located in lawn areas, punch a series of 4" deep holes using a crowbar around the dripline, filling each with fertilizer. Follow above advice for type and quantity. To enhance rooting, and to boost flower and fruit production, supplement with rock phosphate at the same rate, utilizing either of the appropriate application methods listed above. Repeat in spring for optimal results.

New information from local universities indicates that fall feeding of shrubs and trees can occur anytime in the fall, starting as early as late August/early September... growth will not be stimulated, nor will plants be thrown off their upcoming winter dormancy. Again, roses and perennials are not fed until spring. On plants sensitive to warm fall temperatures, like vines, Buddleia and Caryopteris, wait until late November for feeding or pruning, as they may respond by trying to force out growth.

Garden Gypsum ~ This often overlooked product not only improves drainage, but is an important weapon as you combat the effects of road salt on lawns and gardens, adjacent to roadways. This fall, apply a preventative application of garden gypsum, at 10-15# per 100 square feet. Gypsum works in two ways... it ameliorates salt damage associated with road salt (and dog urine, as well) and keeps working its way through the soil, improving drainage... a better drained soil allows the salt residue to pass to deeper levels, below where root systems will be negatively impacted by salt. (In addition: Pelletized lime, at 5-10# per 100 sq.ft., will help alleviate the acidity associated with road salt.) The second, curative application of gypsum, is spread next spring (same rate) after cleaning these roadside areas of sand and salt. And don’t forget that gypsum, applied to gardens and lawns spring and fall, will greatly improve drainage.

Lawns ~ For lawns, a combination of winter turf food, lime and gypsum results in a thick, vibrant turf next spring. Pelletized lime changes the pH most quickly, within 6-8 weeks, and is fairly dust-free, but is only for use in a broadcast spreader... running it through a drop spreader will often result in damage, as the the pellets are like tiny pebbles. Granular (consistency of sugar) or pulverized lime (like flour) takes much longer to raise the pH (8-10 months for granular/6-8 months for pulverized), but applied in the fall either will work their way into the soil via cracks which open up over winter, with successive freeze/thaw cycles.

Take further advantage of the cracks and crevices that open up, courtesy of that freeze/thaw phenomenon. Slice-seeders and frost-seeding are viable options. If you delayed fall seeding, missing the ideal Labor Day to mid-October time frame, all is not lost. With plummeting temperatures, soil temps are beginning to drop, resulting in very limited seed germination from this point on. Grass seed sown now, will not be harmed by the cold and snow of winter, but will wash around and germinate unevenly next spring, necessitating overseeding at that time.

Using a slice-seeder now, running it in a crisscross pattern across the lawn, does allow for late seeding. Seed falls into the crevices, stays in place over the winter and germinates early next spring, as soon as soils have warmed sufficiently and conditions are just right. Frost-seeding works in much the same way, only without having to rent the slice-seeder. After the ground begins to freeze, sow your grass seed... usually during December, just watch the weather. As the soil thaws and refreezes, tiny spaces and cracks begin to open up. The seed you've sown starts working its way into these crevices, remaining in place and germinating next spring, as soil warms... probably before you'd be out there reseeding next season. If you've really procrastinated, seed can be sown atop an early snowfall and will work its way into the soil, laying dormant until spring. Any of the above methods work and may provide just the late-season lawn reprieve for which you were searching. One other late-season solution? Sod! Soils are still warm enough to promote rooting in, a process further encouraged with starter fertilizer.

Another word about gypsum, when it comes to lawns with poor drainage ~ apply for three consecutive years, twice a year (spring & fall), then once per year, thereafter... forevermore, since this keeps the gypsum present, continually working its way through the soil. One more point? Garden gypsum opens up clay soils and binds together sandy soils.

Keep Raking ~ Keeping the lawn free of fallen leaves allows the sunlight and air circulation to assist you with lawn disease prevention. A final mower height of 1 1/2-2”, means that grass blades will not bend over, providing disease entry points. All in all, a great combination for the over-wintering lawn.

Moisture and anti-desiccants ~ Keep a close watch on the November rainfall and supplement, if needed. Any plant that begins winter in a dehydrated state, will suffer accelerated damage. Normal transpiration, when combined with strong winds and freezing temperatures, will cause excessive damage and die back, if not death. Plants facing their first winter are particularly susceptible to winter desiccation, as are broadleaf evergreens, like azaleas and rhododendrons.

A further aid for conserving moisture within stems and foliage, is the application of an anti-desiccant, such as pine-resin based Wilt Pruf® or Wilt Stop®. Again, newly-planted specimens, along with broadleaf evergreens, are prime candidates for this extra winter insurance. A dry November day, with 40-50º temperatures, is ideal for application. Spray upper and lower leaf surfaces, to protect all the stomata from moisture loss. Follow all package directions, as some needled evergreens should not be treated, or may require a time-specific application.

Young fruit, ornamental and shade trees have extremely thin bark, through which moisture is lost. These, along with rose canes, benefit from the moisture conservation of Wilt Pruf®. A second application of an anti-desiccant can be applied to any sensitive plants, above the snow line, during our January thaw, at 40-50º. More protection?

Belt and Suspenders ~ For plants in extremely windy spots or in danger of ice and snow damage, consider the added protection of burlap attached to wooden stakes, surrounding the plant like a snow fence. Alternatively, “A” frame structures, made of plywood, allow snow and ice to slide safely to the ground. (Word to the wise: foundation plantings should be positioned beyond the roof drip line.)

Salt Marsh Hay ~ A 3-4" layer of this excellent winter mulch is placed around any tender roses (right up over rose crowns), perennials and shrubs after the ground freezes. This keeps the soil stable and moderates the effects of the thaw/freeze cycle on sensitive roots and crowns. Availability fluctuates, so obtain salt marsh hay early and store in a dry area, until it's time to apply this mulch.

Trunk Guards ~ The trunks of young fruit, ornamental and shade trees have relatively thin bark and are quite susceptible to sunscald. Spiraling perforated, vinyl guards down the trunks of young trees, for the first 1-3 winters, will help them develop a thick, healthy bark. Remove in early March. While this will help prevent the girdling damage of rodents and deer, more secure rodent protection is afforded by a sleeve of hardware cloth, adjusted as the trunk expands. Fruit trees may always require this fine-gauge wire trunk protection. Remember that rodents like rabbits, standing atop snow, can reach higher up the trunk in winter.

Staking ~ Young fruit, ornamental or shade trees facing their first winter have started to root in, but many could use a little extra support to steady them against the strong winter winds. The most common is a three-point staking system that employs short stakes driven into the soil at an angle, just beyond the dripline. Cabled or single-strand guy wire, or heavy nylon twine, runs from the stakes through hose segments (prevents chaffing and girdling) placed around lower branches and back to the stakes. Allow a little play in the wire or rope, so the tree is able to move naturally without being uprooted. Guying it too tightly, prevents the natural sway and hinders the development of a strong root system, able to support itself properly when unstaked for successive seasons.

Bulbs ~ Tardy gardener? Though the Dutch bulb selection is growing limited, you may still find a few old favorites awaiting your selection. Oops! Forget to plant the bulbs you bought last month? No time like the present, before the ground freezes in December. Buy, or save aside, a few extra bulbs for forcing. Planted in shallow bulb pans, kept lightly moist, dark and cool (35-40º) for 10-12 weeks, they’ll provide an indoor flower show, in the middle of winter. Alternatively, the garden center will offer forced bulbs throughout the winter, as they start to bud.

Amaryllis, the queen of indoor bulbs, is available in a variety of species and colors, perfect for windowsill or thoughtful gift. Try a single, fragrant hyacinth, suspended over water in a special hyacinth glass. Easiest of all? Paperwhite narcissus bulbs, anchored in stone, with their roots in water. For a succession of blooms, store away 2-3 dozen (cool, dark spot) and start a few every couple of weeks.

Don’t forget those summer bulbs! Dahlias, cannas, gladioli and begonias (actually tubers and corms) are among the tender perennial bulbs that need to be lifted come fall, after frost has nipped the top growth. Bulbs are air-dried in a cool, frost-free area, brushed clean, coated with bulb dust and stored away in layers of sand... place the container in a consistently cool spot (about 40º), such as a basement floor, on an outside wall.

Compost bins ~ As you harvest that finished compost, recycling it as a mulch or soil amendment, continue adding fresh layers of leaves and garden refuse to your compost pile or bin. The combination of carbon-rich brown material (dried stalks/autumn leaves), alternated with with the green nitrogen-rich material (grass clippings/weeds, etc.) provides the necessary air to moisture ratio for beneficial micro-organisms to succeed. Enclosed bins are a tidy way to contain your composting materials, with an easy-harvest door to retrieve finished compost. However, they are more dependent on you, than are open piles, to provide additional aeration and moisture to keep the pile “cooking.” Compost turners, thermometers and activators help ensure the success of your backyard recycling.

Cleanliness ~ Pick up and discard (do not compost) any fallen, diseased materials. Many of the offending spores or organisms will drop from leaves and stems, into the soil, where they’ll overwinter until next spring.

Keep Raking ~ Keeping the lawn free of fallen leaves allows the sunlight and air circulation to assist you with lawn disease prevention. A final mower height of 1 1/2-2”, means that grass blades will not bend over, providing disease entry points. All in all, a great combination for the over-wintering lawn.

Dormant-Season Spraying ~ The dormant season is ideal for controlling many insect and disease problems. When temperatures are about 45º, in November and again in March, spray branches, trunks and surrounding soil with horticultural oil to smother insects and eggs. When controlling diseases, turn to lime sulfur, applying in the same manner during March at 45º. Combination products, combining both oil and lime sulfur, are largely unavailable at this point. Check all labels for any plant sensitivity and mix at the heavier, dormant-season rate. Fruit trees and roses, especially, respond well to this approach, beginning the growing season relatively free of problems. It’s all about preventing insects and disease from over-wintering. [Reminder: phytotoxicity occurs if you do not allow a minimum of 30 days between application of any sulfur fungicide and horticultural oil... during the growing or dormant season.]

Pruning ~ Prune away dead and diseased portions of any plants, right now. Prune off any dangling or broken limbs to avoid problems and hazards during winter storms. Prune summer-blooming clematis in fall, if wildly overgrown. Remove heavy hydrangea flower heads, to eliminate excess weight and potential winter injury. Pruning butterfly bush (Buddleia) and blue mist spirea (Caryopteris) back by half, eliminates most winter injury from ice and accumulated snow. Wait until late November/early December on these two, to eliminate the possibility of these temperature-sensitive plants breaking dormancy, reducing winter hardiness. Prune back further, to initiate new growth, in spring.

Winter pruning (usually late winter) of fruit trees to redefine shape and eliminate crossed-over limbs, allows natural healing of pruning wounds, without the spread of disease, or excessive sap flow. It is also easier to assess and make sound pruning decisions, without the foliage canopy. All of the above reasons make winter an ideal time to remove larger limbs from pines and other needled evergreens, as well as from shade and flowering trees. Do not prune roses. When tidying up straggly yews, junipers, holly and other evergreens with pruning shears (no hard cutting back at this point), use your clippings in swags, wreaths & roping or to dress up containers and window boxes. Winterberry, red twig dogwood, dried flower heads, and grass plumes will further enhance your winter displays.

Empty Beds? ~ Turn chopped leaves and seaweed into fallow flower or vegetable beds. These will break down, over winter, adding to soil fertility by next spring. Other organics like cow manure, peat humus and compost, will also add valuable microbes to the soil, when tilled in now. And remember to add in the rock phosphate, greensand, lime and garden gypsum.

Roses ~ The best way to get hybrid roses through the New England winter, is to plant them properly, with the bud union 1½ - 2” below the soil surface. Beyond this, after the ground freezes, a 3-4” layer of salt marsh hay will help to minimize the freeze/thaw cycle from effecting the crown. If not planted properly (graft is above the soil), place a 3-4” layer of bark mulch around the base and across the crown, followed by the hay mulch. Be sure to remove these layers in mid to late March, to eliminate excess moisture around that sensitive crown, as well as conditions conducive to stem canker. Leave all branches intact, tying them, if necessary, to prevent winter damage.

Do not prune roses after early September. This allows the canes to properly harden-off before winter. Prune as needed in spring. Other than lime, rock phosphate, kelp meal, greensand or gypsum, no feeding until early spring... plan on commencing your rose fertilization schedule when you perform the first spring pruning. And remember... climbing roses bloom heaviest on old wood, so leave their pruning until after the first bloom sequence. Certain old garden rose varieties bloom on old wood - delay spring pruning on these, as well, pruning only as blossoms fade. Look into the newer shrub, ground cover and landscape hybrids, for truly hardy, carefree roses.

Deterrents ~ You’ll find a wide range of products developed to discourage destructive animals, such as deer, from invading your gardens. Essential oils are one component of such deterrents, with many being all-organic and biodegradable. Deer netting and other physical barriers can offer additional control. Long-term planning, when selecting landscape specimens, will lead wise gardeners to choose deer-resistant plants.

Bird Feeders ~ Fall is an ideal time to establish feeding stations, so birds become familiar with new locations and new feeders, before winter. So many choices - feeders to exclude large, greedy birds, to foil squirrels or to accommodate all birds, including the ground-feeding species. And, looking ahead to the holidays, they make thoughtful gifts for backyard birders.

Birdhouses ~ Mounted now, they'll serve as winter shelter during inclement weather. Come spring, non-migratory backyard birds will stake their claim on such housing, long before returning birds make a decision. Got a backyard birder on that gift list?

Bird Roosts ~ Occasionally, friendly sparrow families will turn these roosting boxes into condominiums, but they're actually designed as shelter, from snow, rain and cold winds. Autumn is a fine time to mount these shelters, which are used year 'round... another great gift idea, as well!

Indoor Plants ~ Did they spend summer vacation outside? Check them over thoroughly for insects and disease and treat, if necessary. Ease their adjustment to indoor conditions... increase humidity, avoid over-watering, feed according to their life cycles, provide adequate light and eliminate standing water. Room temperature water is best for watering all indoor plants, including holiday specimens. Poinsettias need draught-free areas, bright daylight or filtered sun, with moderate moisture. Cyclamen and indoor azaleas perform best in a cool window, with early or late-day sun ~ a west window is ideal and be careful not to over-water. Indoor mums last longer in filtered sun, with moderate moisture, but cut them back hard, start feeding and expose to strong sun once flowers have faded.

Holiday notes ~ Mid-November, Christmas greens and fresh wreaths arrive. Thanksgiving week should see the arrival of both living and cut Christmas trees. The garden shop is being transformed into a charming Christmas and gift shop, with anything you might want for the gardeners on your list. Check out the faux spruce wreaths and other silk “impostors.” Berries, cones, swags, lights, candles, ribbon, bows... everything needed to deck the halls! But, rest assured, all your late-season gardening needs continue to be available.

May you all have a Happy Thanksgiving

and a thoroughly delightful holiday season!

From all of us at Corliss Bros. Garden center & Nursery

*Wood ash contains small amounts of potassium, phosphate, boron and other elements. While not as effective as limestone at raising pH, with repeated use, wood ash can cause a dramatic rise in soil pH, particularly in sandy soils, so err on the side of caution. One note of concern: Plant roots or germinating seedlings in direct contact with wood ash, may be damaged. Spreading a light layer in late fall/early winter and waiting until spring to turn it into the soil is the safest method of application. An annual soil test will help you avoid the overuse of wood ash. Naturally-occurring soil nutrients and those that you provide via fertilizer become locked up in an overly sweet or overly sour soil... all of this greatly depends on the plants you cultivate and their individual pH preferences.

©Deb Lambert/CBI 2011

'CORLISS CLIPS'/October 2011/Page 1

2011-09-29T12:00:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
October 2011..... Page 1

A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert

Before we address the serious business
of fall gardening chores, let's enjoy a
virtual harvest of ornamental delights...

Autumn is a place where raindrops
glide down outrageously orange petals

And glisten amidst the frilly edges of kale

Where even the gloomiest day is brightened
by Pyracantha berries

And fall Anemones toss their heads in the slightest breeze

Where an intricately ruffled Anemone
flutters in the rain-cleansed wind

Now, what would October be without pumpkins?
Of course, there are pumpkins...

... and then, there are pumpkins!

The ornamental grasses realize their full potential,
triumphantly waving graceful plumes
'neath a clear blue October sky

And the sheer size of a daisy-flowered mum is bound
to impress even the most blasé observer

Yes, October is a month of cherishing the sunny days, welcoming the needed rains, taking nature walks, seeking the best fall foliage, putting away the fall harvest and preparing to bid a fond farewell to another growing season. All things considered, it's been a good season. But before we settle down by the hearth, there are a few chores that require our attention. Come along to Page 2 and we'll get started...

(continued on Page 2...)

©DJL/CBI
Photo Credits: Grasses and Giant Pumpkin ~ ©CBI 2007
All other photos: ©Deb Lambert 2008

'CORLISS CLIPS'/October 2011/Page 2

2011-09-29T11:45:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
October 2011..... Page 2

NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED.....

Photo:©Post Woodworking~Shed styles on display
at Corliss Bros. ~ 31 Essex Rd. Ipswich, MA

☛Fall planting continues... Work with Mother Nature, who provides warm days, cool nights and increased moisture. As plants enter dormancy, roots are still active and will be stimulated by fall planting, resulting in well-rooted specimens. Although choice is a bit more limited at this time, well-maintained plants, fall-dug nursery stock and many seasonal specials make an excursion to the garden center well worthwhile.

☛Lawns: Check Page 2 of September's 'Corliss Clips' for tips that apply now, as well. Gradually lower that mower, until the final cut at 1½ - 1¾" high, so blades remain upright and not as prone to mildew, rust and other diseases. It's getting late to seed (certainly early October at the latest, and hope for a warm fall), but sod lawns will succeed in those sunny areas until late October/early November. Keep raking, once the leaves start to fall, to increase available sunlight and air circulation. A last feeding with a winter turf food or long-lasting organic fertilizer, will strengthen roots and thicken turf... fewer spaces for weeds to find a foothold and a better lawn next spring. Apply that last feeding between mid-October and late November.

☛Houseplants: Oops! Forget something? Those indoor plants should be inside, by now. Leave them outdoors, on an extended vacation, and the adjustment from out to in will result in more yellowing foliage and faltering new growth, than usual. Check them over for disease and/or insect problems and treat as necessary. Horticultural oil, neem oil, hot pepper wax, or insecticidal soap are some of the safer control alternatives available. Once inside, those tender specimens should be placed on humidity trays (stone-filled saucers with constant water level) and kept away from direct heat sources. Humidifiers are a great help with the dry air problem. Misting foliage with a sprayer is only a very temporary means of increasing humidity. Leave that Christmas cactus out, until just before frost, to force bud production.

☛Perennials: Continue digging, dividing and transplanting perennials until mid-October. Add a little compost and organic fertilizer, as you plant them in their new positions. After the ground freezes, apply a 3" layer of salt marsh hay for extra winter protection, this first year.

☛Pruning: Remove any diseased or dead wood before winter. Got a few shaggy evergreens, that could use a little tidying before winter? Consider delaying this until November, when you can harvest these greens for seasonal decorations. Do not prune roses, as canes have now reached maximum hardiness - especially those that have formed rose hips.

☛Feeding: Other than roses, perennials and vines, the landscape will benefit (just as the lawn does) from a fall feeding. Late October to late November is an ideal time to encourage increased root activity, by applying slow-release organic fertilizer. The resulting renewed vigor, next spring, will make your autumn efforts worth while. Work with the season, and if it stays quite warm, delay feeding until late November. Food will be assimilated and stored away for next spring's first growth flush.

☛Compost: Keep adding to that compost pile, as you rake and clean gardens. Keep harvesting summer's finished compost and enriching gardens and fallow beds. Look into one of the many compost activators, like Organica's Compost Accelerator to shorten the time between batches.

☛Cover Crops: Besides working compost, chopped seaweed and other organics into the soil of empty vegetable beds, consider sowing winter rye of buckwheat in these areas. They'll hold the soil from water and wind erosion this fall and winter. Turned into the soil next spring, as "green manure," they'll be an excellent source of nutrients for the new season's crops.

☛Fall Decorating: Corn stalks, scarecrows, pumpkins, gourds, ornamental grasses, garden mums, ornamental cabbage & kale, Montauk daisies, Icicle pansies... so many possibilities ~ time to have a little fun with your exterior decorating! And don't forget a few ghosts and ghoulies to amaze the "trick or treaters!"

☛Birds: Time to replace some of those tired old feeders, add a new squirrel-foiling model or establish a brand new feeding station? Corliss has about every type imaginable ~ likewise with housing ~ from bats and bluebirds to wrens and woodpeckers, houses and roosting boxes for your backyard visitors. Fall-mounted housing provides much needed shelter this winter.

☛Other: Edging beds now, saves time next spring. If bark mulch has composted down into the soil, add a fresh layer this fall. Plant garlic in fall, for a larger crop next year. Bring in mature herb plants to sunny windowsills for culinary use this winter. Start herb seeds for fresh, new indoor crops. For faster results, root herb cuttings.

Well, that's enough to keep us busy this fall, right? Let's see... are we forgetting anything? You're right ~ Dutch Bulbs! Actually, I didn't forget... just thought I'd give them their own page. So, come along to Page 3 for all the details.....

(continued on Page 3...)

©DJL/CBI 2008

'CORLISS CLIPS'/October 2011/Page 3

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Corliss Clips
October 2011..... Page 3

"PLANTING DUTCH MIRACLES"

Photo: ©CBI 2008
Here we see forced bulbs, making a very presentable indoor flower show. So, don't forget a few extra bulbs for forcing... ask for the most suitable varieties. Paperwhite Narcissi and Amaryllis bulbs are also "must-haves" for interior displays.

Hmm... 'Red Emperor' tulips? 'Mount Hood' daffodils? Snow crocus? You stand in front of rows and rows of Dutch bulbs, wondering which spring-flowering bulbs are just right for your garden. Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus and so many others - the choice is incredible. You want to try all of them, but the reality of budgets and limited space is usually the deciding factor.

You pick up a tulip bulb and turn it over, meditatively, in your hand, wondering how this new variety would look in your yard. There, contained in a compact package, is one of nature's miracles. Within that hard, relatively small bulb, you hold an entire flowering plant. Leaves, stem and flower bud are all tucked neatly inside, waiting for just the right conditions to commence its flowering cycle. Imagine the wonder of a child, as you explain these "magical" bulbs. They'll delight in the simple planting process and spend the winter anticipating a spring flower show.

Here in Zone 5, bulbs are available at garden centers right through the autumn, but selections are best in September and early October. To avoid premature sprouting of foliage during the fall, store bulbs in paper bags in a cool, dark, dry basement until mid to late October.

Is your garden formal, informal or somewhere in-between? Long rows of stately tulips, bordered by earlier blooming daffodils, hyacinths and minor bulbs will create the right look for formal beds. Incorporating bulbs into the informal landscape is a less exact science and a lot more fun. For naturalizing, toss a few handfuls of narcissus or crocus bulbs across the lawn and plant them where they land - children love this part. Cluster groups of daffodils and grape hyacinths (Muscari) under a birch clump.

Most Dutch bulbs lend themselves to group plantings, equally at home around the kitchen garden or planted in pockets throughout the foundation beds. For maximum display, plant minor bulbs (crocus, scilla, etc.) at 20-30 per square foot, tulips at 12 per square foot, hyacinths at 8-10 per square foot and daffodils at 6-8 per square foot.

While a bulb planter is fine for popping in a few minor bulbs, or naturalizing bulbs into a lawn area, I find a spade is generally the most practical tool for the job. This is especially true when planting bulbs in "pockets," in groups of 6-30 (depending on variety). In general, minor bulbs are planted 3-4" deep, while major bulbs (tulips, narcissus, hyacinth) are planted 6-8" deep. Drainage is critical for all bulbs and individual planting holes can be improved by incorporating sand and garden gypsum. If soil is too sandy, incorporate compost or peat humus. If major soil improvement is required, dig down to a depth of 12 inches to make a significant change.

Before planting bulbs at their proper depth, mix bulb food or rock phosphate into the soil, at a handful per square foot. Beware of bonemeal, since it attracts animals, which may destroy or dig up bulbs. After planting, fill the hole halfway with soil, tamp lightly and water thoroughly. Finish filling the hole, tamp down to eliminate air pockets and lightly rake in an 8-8-8 or organic, granular fertilizer, at the rate of 4# per 100 square feet. Water thoroughly, once more.

To prevent frost heave damage, mulch with 3" of salt marsh hay when the ground starts to freeze. Alternatively, a couple of inches of year 'round bark mulch will not hinder bulb growth in spring. Water until the ground freezes, should the fall prove to be dry. If rodents are a problem, bury some chicken wire as you backfill to discourage digging. Squirrels always seem to know where the bulbs are planted. Bulbs can be soaked or sprayed with a bitter-tasting solution. There are many organic compounds, in liquid or dust form, to discourage digging and chewing.

Established bulb beds benefit from a fall application of bulb food or rock phosphate. Apply at the rate of 5# per 100 square feet, cultivate lightly and water thoroughly. Feed new and established bulb beds in spring - this is actually the most important time to feed. Scratch in a little 8-8-8 or granular, organic fertilizer around bulb clusters, as soon as flowers fade. Always leave bulb foliage intact, allowing it to die back to the soil... the nutrients will be drawn back into the bulb, for the formation of the following season's blooms.

Want maximum impact from a small space? Plant combination pockets. Plant tulips or daffodils as usual (6-8" deep), backfill the holes halfway, tamp, water and then place a layer of minor bulbs atop these... finish backfilling and water. 'Red Emperor' tulips with blue chionodoxa and 'Dutch Master' daffodils with grape hyacinths are just two of the possible combinations.

Although bulbs are basically sun-loving, deciduous shade is not a problem for early bloomers, as they'll have time to bloom and die back before trees or shrubs are heavily foliated. That's why narcissus will thrive clustered at woodland edges and the intensely-blue Scilla sibirica performs well beneath golden forsythias.

Think small - don't overlook the virtues of "minor" bulbs. Most of them multiply fairly rapidly, carpeting the spring garden with blue, pink, white or yellow. Snow Crocus, Galanthus (snowdrop), Pushkinia, Scilla sibirica, Chionodoxa, Iris reticulata and Muscari are all ideal for combination plantings and spring ground covers.

So, get out there. Choose from the top-size bulbs that garden centers offer. Bring along a plan or sketch of proposed planting areas, to aid in bulb selection. Bring along the children. Consult with, and involve, the whole family this fall and prepare to be amazed next spring.

Now, back to a few more glimpses of fall. Follow me to Page 4 and let us partake of that autumnal harvest... aren't you glad you garden in New England? I am!

(continued on Page 4...)

©DJL/CBI 2008

'CORLISS CLIPS'/October 2011/Page 4

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Corliss Clips
October 2011..... Page 4

Need a little more inspiration? Take an autumnal scroll...

Find autumn in a stroll through the park

As you walk through suburbia, be on the lookout
for fall blossoms ~ like this Montauk daisy

Marvel at the Maiden Grass (Miscanthus), flinging
graceful plumes against an azure sky

Appreciate the Shademaster Locust,
resplendent in it's golden autumn attire

October visits the bay
and paints the shore in muted hues

And the voracious gulls
find sustenance in the chilly, fall waters

We eagerly plant 'Snow Angel' Pansies for color now...

and in earliest spring

Native American Bittersweet bears its fruit at the vine tips, while the invasive oriental bittersweet bears fruit all along the twining vines. As the foliage turns yellow, the orange berries are still restrained within their golden skins. Soon, they'll burst forth and present us with that wonderful orange and gold display. Relished by birds, as well as by backyard exterior decorators, these vines are a handsome reminder that autumn is upon us.

The handsome Amur Maple

Ornamental Cabbage ~ perfect complement to...

Garden mums, of every type, color and size

How about this for fall color?

Or this? Boston Ivy, in full fall regalia,
backlit by a Goldthread Cypress

And no grand finale would be complete
without the indispensable pumpkin!

Now, get out there and enjoy your October!

~ finis ~

©DJL/CBI 2008
Photo Credits: ©CBI 2007 (7) / ©DJL 2008 (7)

'CORLISS CLIPS'/September 2011/Page 1

2011-09-01T04:00:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
September 2011..... Page 1

A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert

FALL IS FOR...

Enjoying the journey, as we transition to the fall season ~
Relinquishing summer and embracing autumn,
as we continue the gardener's tradition of working
with nature... fine-tuning our plans, discovering
new specimens and planting, deep into the season.

Photo: ©CBI 2008

A bumblebee on 'Autumn Joy' Sedum reminds us how handsome is this versatile, reliable, fall-blooming perennial. The maturing blossoms transition from light to dark pink, deepen to near-red and attain a bronze cast that lasts into winter. Left standing, they lend texture and interest to the winter landscape. Availability of sizable specimens is best in fall.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

Sunflowers and butterfly bushes are a winning combination, if you wish to attract summer wildlife. Rich in pollen, nectar and seed, these species will overwhelm you with the spectacle of butterflies, hummingbird moths, bumblebees (and host of other pollinators), hummingbirds, goldfinches, chickadees, titmice (plus numerous other seed-eaters) who come to take advantage of your largess in the garden. Reminder: sunflowers are annuals, best sown in their final position, come spring. Choose fancy hybrids in seed packets, or sow a few handfuls from the birdseed cannister. In areas left relatively undisturbed, you seldom need to reseed each year, as the birds and wind will oblige! From summer into early fall, butterfly bushes or Buddleia davidii and other species, will provide lush color. Available right through the growing season, it's hugely popular when in bloom and availability is probably best, then.

Photo: ©CBI 2007

Newly-emerged from it's chrysalis (remnants, upper right corner) last September, this monarch butterfly was among the last of the season. Specimens in this late group are noticeably larger than the season's 2-3 previous generations. This is because they must fly thousands of miles to winter in southern California or Mexico. This same generation will return next spring and attach their eggs to milkweed plants, the larval food source, before expiring. And yes, that's a butterfly bush from which the chrysalis dangles.

Photo: ©CBI 2007

More proof that the clientele is not limited to butterflies. This bumblebee moth, like the hummingbird moth, is a member of the clearwing moth family. Searching for nectar, these moths are invaluable pollinators, as are hummingbird moths and the hummingbirds, for which you may momentarily mistake them. Just another reason to include Buddleia in the landscape.

Photo: ©CBI 2008

Linger by a coneflower (Echinacea) and look who visits... an Eastern Tiger Swallowtail. In fact, your well-planned perennial beds, along with many annuals and woody ornamentals, will provide sustenance for a wide array of creatures. Color and fragrance are key in attracting all these winged visitors and each species has definite preferences... as do the humans who plant and cultivate all this flora. Isn't it nice when those preferences run parallel and the resultant garden is attractive to both gardeners and flying jewels? With a minimum of research, you'll discover simple ways to encourage summer visitors.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

This long blooming Helinium (Helen's Flower) is a striking accent at about five feet tall, quite popular among the winged set. With dense foliage cover and substantial height, this perennial is part of a mixed seasonal screen, providing privacy for an outdoor "living room." Terrific late summer color!

Photo: ©DJL 2008

More impressive size (4-6') and great color from this perennial member of the ageratum genus, Eupatorium. 'Gateway' is fine hybrid of Joe Pye Weed... the native grows wild in this area. Blooms at the same time as Helenium... plant them together for an eye-catching display.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

Aronia melanocarpa 'Autumn Magic', or Black Chokeberry, stands 5-6' high by 4' wide. Thick, green foliage provides a nice screen and the berries, which color up in August, persist deep into fall, offering a food source to local songbirds. Autumn foliage varies from red to purple, adding another dimension. But, it's the glossy black berries that attract gardeners, right now... just the right contrast when interplanted with late flowering perennials.

Photo: ©CBI 2007

Sweet Autumn Clematis, Clematis paniculata, bears clouds of fragrant white blooms all September, and into October. An enthusiastic vine that can be trimmed in early spring, if needed, since it flowers on new wood. This vine is glorious ~ trained up a trellis, arbor or when providing shade, as it clambers across a pergola. And you will attract those pollinators.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

Brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba, is sometimes sold as a perennial, but is actually a biennial. Left relatively undisturbed, it seeds in nicely each year, so there are always plants blooming... like having a perennial, as well as leaving a few complimentary "volunteers." Full sun for best bloom and fullest growth, but will also tolerate half-shade. Like perennial black-eyed Susans, these provide valuable seeds in fall and winter for songbirds. The cones of all rudbeckias are attractive, left standing.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

About as close to "red" as a daylily, or Hemerocallis, gets. A delightful late summer surprise, blooming away unnoticed beneath an ancient apple tree. Of unknown parentage, this small orphan is obviously a rebloomer ~ like Stella d'Oro, which has repeat blooms all season ~ if this is a quality you seek in these hardy perennials, look for the term rebloomer in the description.

Photo: CBI 2007

Not only will you enjoy the late-season color of Caryopteris (Bluebeard, Blue Spirea or Blue Mist Shrub), but you'll revel in the increased amount of backyard wildlife that it attracts. Blossoms are nectar-rich, enticing bees, butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden in late summer, just as many other shrubs and perennials are completing their flowering cycles. Although Caryopteris doesn't bloom until mid to late July/early August - September, it's an attractive, mounded plant, of compact habit. Foliage varies from deep green and blue-green to silvery green or yellow. C. clandonensis hybrids range from 2-3' in height. Another must-have?

Photo: ©DJL 2008

Hibiscus syriacus, or Rose-of-Sharon (sometimes, Shrub Althea) is prized for its long blooming season, lasting from July into September. Flowers are single, double or semi-double and colors range from deep red, to pink, lavender, blue and white. Naturally growing about ten feet high, by eight feet wide, Rose-of-Sharon is ideal as a small, ornamental tree. It is also at home in the large, mixed shrub border. Easily pruned, it is commonly maintained at a smaller size, even lending itself to a hedge formation. The single-flowered variety above is 'Red Heart'.

Photo: CBI 2007

Bright color and lots of it! What's not to like about such a vigorous, hardy little shrub?
Spirea x bumalda 'Anthony Waterer' matures at 3' high by 5' wide and, with regular deadheading, will blossom from June to September. Like this variety, it's close relative, 'Neon Flash', also blooms long and late... in fact, most of the bumalda cultivars are quite generous with their flowers and backyard pollinators, including butterflies, will find them attractive.

Photo: DJL 2008

Informal gardens benefit from a certain amount of serendipity... like 'Grandpa Ott' roaming through my landscape, at will. Every growing season, for the past three years ~ these annual, hybrid morning glory vines have been rambling across fences, securing several tomato vines to their wooden stakes, tossing up a few trumpets in the cosmos patch and flinging themselves to the top of a dwarf Hinoki Cypress (about 12' high). Suffice it to say, I'll never need to plant 'Grandpa Ott' from seed again... which will delight my bumblebees!

Photo: ©DJL 2008

Viburnums offer a variety of fruit to satisfy the tastes of backyard fruit eaters and the eyes of backyard gardeners, bearing red, blue or black berries that sometimes last into winter. We're looking at the Wentworth Cranberry Bush, Viburnum trilobum 'Wentworthi'. The berries grow a deeper red daily, with local songbirds testing the ripeness for maximum sweetness. The late summer/autumn fruit display is rivaled only by the large, showy spring panicles of white flowers and the burgundy fall foliage. This specimen grows to 10-15' high by 8-10' wide. If this is a bit overwhelming, the Compact American Cranberry Bush may fit the bill, at 5-6' high.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

Hosta 'Aureo Marginata'

A rainy, late summer/early fall day is the perfect time to really appreciate all that substance, color and texture. Blooming mid to late summer, hosta flowers really vary widely... some are pale lavender and rather insignificant, others quite showy, white and fragrant. Green, blue, golden, variegated, lance-leaved, conspicuously quilted, giant or diminutive... it is the foliage that intrigues us, in gardens that range from dappled shade to partial sun. Try creating a garden, based solely on texture and leaf color ~ combine hosta hybrids with a mixture of ferns and sedges (Carex spp.) ~ these latter two offer some specimens with silver, white, reddish or golden variegation. There are many other suitable subjects for shade (a subject into which we'll delve at a later time), but these three genera offer a great diversity and "play well together."

Photo: CBI 2007

Is this hydrangea right for your fall garden? Let's see. Full sun to partial shade, Zone 4 hardiness, not many pests, requiring organically-enriched soil (use your compost) that is fairly moist, but well-drained, along with a little annual pruning in early spring. Not that demanding! Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva', left on its own, may reach 10-12' by about 8' wide. Like the other paniculata hybrids (think the venerable Pee Gee Hydrangea), the blend of sterile (most showy) and fertile flowers are borne in clusters, or panicles. Most are of a rounded, conical shape. 'Tardiva' bears just enough of the showy sterile flowers, starting in mid-August, to make the 8" upright conical heads really stand out in the fall garden. And like others of its species, it starts out a snowy white, gradually changing to pink, deep raspberry and finally to rust, with the onset of cooler weather. 'Bulk', 'Limelight', 'Little Lamb' and 'Pink Diamond' round out the panicle hydrangea selection, with some of these blooming earlier in the summer. Bees and various pollinators, including the occasional butterfly, will frequent these showy flower heads.

Photo: ©DJL 2008

I am an unabashed fan of the old-fashioned Cosmos bipinnatus, particularly that free-flowering, free-seeding old hybrid 'Sensation Mix' - a blend of reds, pinks and white. At 3-5 feet (it can range from 1-7'), with airy, delicate foliage, Cosmos is a plant of substance and grace. It has long been a favorite among backyard naturalists that wish to attract native wildlife to their own environs. It is also a favorite of the American Goldfinch and rivaled only by a nearby stand of sunflowers, in its powers of attraction. Butterflies, bees and other pollinators will find their way to your Cosmos, as well. Allowing Cosmos to self-seed will ensure new plants each season and is essential if you're encouraging goldfinch visits. Buy fresh seed next spring and sow outdoors, once soils have warmed. Easy, carefree color, on a budget!

Photo: ©DJL 2008

The lengthy bloom sequence and rosy color make this Rose-of Sharon a favorite in many gardens. Hibiscus syriacus 'Aphrodite' has the same growth characteristics and cultural requirements, as the 'Red Heart' specimen, listed earlier.

FALL IS FOR..... PLANTING!

There's no doubt about it - the combination of warm days, cool nights and increased moisture, make fall the ideal planting season for most plants. With proper installation techniques and maintenance, plants will thrive in their new location at any time during the growing season, but fall is most conducive to the rooting-in process. As plants slip toward dormancy, they are not actively producing new growth, flowers or fruit... all of their energies are directed into root production, spelling success when combined with the factors outlined above.

Photo: ©CBI 2008

Container-grown or balled and burlapped ~ ready to go!

While this is a spring photo,

many items listed in the catalog are still available.

Photo: ©CBI 2008

The Dwarf & Unusual Area... Striking plants for special gardens

The Clearance Area continues to offer great value, with savings of 50% or more..... and seasonal specials provide savings on specific varieties, elsewhere throughout the garden center.

So, whether you're interested in adding a splash of summer and fall color to attract winged visitors, or are seeking trees, evergreens and other woody ornamentals, this is the time to get motivated. Fall seems such a brief, glorious season, that we don't want to waste a moment. So much to plant... so little time. And don't forget those perennials, mums, pansies, ornamental cabbages, fall asters, fabulous grasses and so much more!

With autumn on the horizon, we find gardeners with renewed zeal and energies ~ ready to tackle all those new garden projects and decorate the home and gardens for fall. Let's make a plan...

(continued on Page 2.....)

©DJL/CBI 2011

'CORLISS CLIPS'/September 2011/Page 2

2011-09-01T03:45:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
September 2011.... Page 2

NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED.....

Photo:©Post Woodworking~Shed styles on display
at Corliss Bros. ~ 31 Essex Rd. Ipswich, MA

We've discussed the advantages of fall planting, viewed some of the season's last blooms and mentioned autumnal decorations. But now, let's take down the clipboard from the shed wall and organize a to-do list for late summer/early fall.

✓Lawns ~ Labor Day is for lawns, as moderating temperatures and increased rainfall present ideal conditions for refreshing tired turf. Thatching and aerating will improve drainage and provide roots with necessary oxygen. Reseeding can be accomplished at this time with great success, as can seeding of new lawns. Starter fertilizer, lime and gypsum can all be applied at seeding time. It's also an ideal time to start a sod lawn, employing the same preparation methods as for new seeding. [If you're using the Organica 4-Step Lawn Program, apply your Lawn Booster anytime now, to provide a last feeding and prevent weed seed germination..... but, if you're seeding now, apply the Kelp Booster instead. Lime and gypsum can also be spread at this time, if desired.]

✓Dutch Treat ~ Treat yourself to a spring flower, by selecting and planting Dutch bulbs this fall. September finds the garden center with it's best selection... tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, allium, crocus, grape hyacinth, chionodoxa (pictured below), among others... old favorites and new hybrids.

Photo: ©CBI 2007

Hold onto those newly purchased bulbs in a cool, dark spot until mid-October, or beyond, which is the ideal planting time. This lessens the chance of premature sprouting, this fall. Pick up a few extra bulbs for forcing ~ you'll enjoy an indoor flower show, come winter ~ and don't forget the bulb booster to get those bulbs off to a good start.

✓Pruning ~ Now that new growth has hardened-off, many needled evergreens can be sheared now (yew, arborvitae, hemlock, etc.)... anytime from late July through September is fine. Flowering shrubs are best pruned immediately after flowering - pruning spring bloomers now, would remove next season's flowering wood. Fruit, shade and flowering trees are best pruned in winter, when wounds heal quickly. Lighter pruning of flowering trees is done in spring, right after blossoms fade.

✓Feeding ~ Stop applying water soluble plant foods, except those, like Neptune's Harvest products, that are seaweed-based or combine seaweed with fish. The former push too much soft, lush growth at a time when plants won't be able to harden-off sufficiently, before winter. The latter, organic alternatives contain seaweed... both seaweed and kelp are valued for their ability to help plants withstand heat and drought, or to enhance cold tolerance. Much of your landscape would benefit from a fall application of granular fertilizer, anytime from mid-October to late November. The benefits are legion and you'll reap the rewards next spring. Choose an organic food, based on the requirements of your plant specimens... Plant-Tone, Holly-Tone, etc. We'll get more specific next time and include other supplements.

✓Perennials ~ Fall, right up until mid-October, is an excellent time to lift and divide perennials. Almost all perennials benefit from this process every couple of years, some even thriving with annual division. If this operation yields more plants than needed, share the bounty with gardening friends. Work compost and a little organic fertilizer into the planting hole, to encourage strong root systems before winter.

✓Indoor Plants ~ Vacation's about over! Houseplants and tropical specimens, like this Brugmansia, will need to come indoors, soon. Leaving them outside until we reach really cool night temperatures, will only make the adjustment to the warmer, dry indoor atmosphere all the more stressful. Always check those returning "vacationers" for insects and disease and apply the appropriate controls, before bringing them inside. Horticultural oil, neem oil and insecticidal soap are among some of the safer controls you might consider.

✓Christmas Cactus ~ The exception to the rule! Their outdoor vacation can continue, usually well into October, but watch the forecasts, closely. Bringing them in just before frost, pretty much assures you of great bud-set.

✓Compost ~ Use finished compost, as you plant and transplant this fall. Work it into fallow flower and vegetable plots. Top-dress ornamental beds... it's an attractive mulch that adds beneficial microbes to the soil and aids in moisture retention. As finished compost is withdrawn, resume your deposits of green material (grass clippings, etc) and brown (dried leaves, etc), in alternating layers. Do not compost any diseased plant refuse!

✓Summer Bulbs ~ Glads, dahlias and other summer-flowering bulbs are best left until the tops are nipped by the first frost. This sends the bulbs (actually corms, tubers, etc) into dormancy and makes the adjustment to winter storage much easier. Air-dried, with foliage trimmed, bulbs cleaned off and treated with bulb dust, they'll then be ready for storage in layers of sand, sawdust or vermiculite - in a cool, dark basement. More details, in November's issue.

✓Bird Houses ~ Fall-mounted bird houses are more quickly claimed by nesting couples, the following spring. They'll also provide much needed shelter during fall and winter storms.
Roosting boxes should go up now, as well, for year 'round shelter.

✓Bird Feeders ~ It's especially important when setting up new feeding stations, to do so early enough in the fall, that songbirds discover and become frequent visitors. If you wait until snow flies, you may be disappointed in the response. Reestablish former stations, especially if you're installing new feeder models. Birds may be reticent, initially, at the unfamiliar surroundings.

✓Vegetable Beds ~ Keep up with the harvesting. As beds are emptied of this season's harvest, remove the debris and do not compost any diseased material. This is a fine time to test the soil pH and add lime, if indicated, and to work compost and other organics into the soil. Consider sowing a cover crop of winter rye or buckwheat. The roots will hold the soil over winter, guarding against erosion, and the plants will be turned back into the soil next spring, as green manure, further enhancing the health and fertility of the soil base.

✓Landscape Sketches ~ Put pen to paper and rough out your landscape ideas, along with topography, available light and such pertinent factors. Since "fall is for planting," you want to be prepared to make wise decisions, next trip to the garden center.

✓Autumnal Decorations ~ Put on you exterior decorator's hat, go outside and cast a critical eye across the home front... "home front," as in what passersby and visitors see when viewing the facade. Wouldn't some cornstalks and scarecrows lend a country, harvest touch? Maybe line the front steps with decorative containers of mums, fall asters, cabbage and kale? How about incorporating these and the many other fall beauties available, into those tired front beds? And don't forget those gorgeous, perennial, ornamental grasses that will grace the landscape for years to come? Well, come along to Page 3, where we'll explore some of your best decorating options.....

(continued on Page 3.....)

©DJL/CBI 2011

'CORLISS CLIPS'/September 2011/Page 3

2011-09-01T03:30:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
September 2011..... Page 3

Photo: ©DJL

Garden mums, or chrysanthemums (Dendranthema x grandiflora), play a key role in exterior decorating each fall. Enjoy them on steps and porches or plant them immediately into garden beds. The earlier they are planted in the garden, the more likely they are to survive winter and live to bloom again. Be sure to loosen the root system, as you plant, and incorporate some compost into the planting hole. Full sun, moderate moisture and well-drained soil are required for success with mums. Leave stems standing, come winter, to protect the crown and trap falling leaves, as a mulch. In addition, after the ground freezes, apply 3-4" of salt marsh hay.

Ornamental kale... a striking, frilly form that complements mums, asters and all of our floral displays. The colors deepen, growing ever more vivid with the onset of colder weather.

Ornamental cabbage, with the same characteristics as kale, gives us a more simple, rounded form... substantial texture that contrasts nicely with autumn florals.

Fall asters, gaining annually in popularity, offer long-lasting from the "cool palette" of white, pink, blue and purple... and maybe just a few deeper hues. Exposure, planting, maintenance and winterizing are the same as for the garden mums, above. As with mums, after the first spring pruning, cutting them back to 2-4", cut stems back by one-half about every two weeks, until mid-July.

Montauk Daisies ~ Great early fall color, lasting well into the cooler weather of autumn. A hearty, strapping perennial, at least 3' x 3', so allow it the space of a shrub. Follow all the cultural requirements outlined for mums and asters, staking them for winter, if needed. Cut these plants back to 6" in the spring and pinch them back (see asters) until mid-July. Without that hard, spring pruning, the plants become leggy and floppy.

The "Snow" series of pansies thrive in the progressively colder weather of fall and will brighten your landscape with their lively, cheerful "faces." They'll produce a great root system and pop up early to cheer you, once more, with early spring color!

Miscanthus, or Maiden Grass... one of the many graceful, rustling grasses that provide 4-season interest in any landscape. From 6" blue fescues, to the 12' Erianthus, there are so many choices. Texture is a major consideration when contemplating this addition.

Ornamental Peppers are sometimes in evidence, come late summer/early fall, and they are certainly attractive in the ornamental displays. They are edible, but are hot, hot, hot!

A few more late summer visions...

Snapdragons still lure bumblebees
in the lingering warmth of early autumn.

This annual blue salvia is another bee magnet.

More free-flowering snapdragons,
which seem to flourish in the cool fall weather.

Silverlace Vine, Polygonum auberti. With a mature height of 30 feet, this vine will cover just about anything that needs covering... in a hurry, with sprays of fragrant white blooms that last from August to October.

Hybrid varieties of Yucca present us with amazing stalks of flowers, borne over attractive, swordlike foliage... great structure and dazzling texture... to be enjoyed year 'round!

Around a lamppost, framing a doorway or lashed to the porch supports, dried cornstalks are the quintessential autumnal decorating element, reminding us that the harvests are in and the growing season is winding to a halt. They form the perfect backdrop for mums, asters, ornamental cabbage and kale, hay bales and, of course, these.......

~ Finis ~

Unless otherwise attributed, all photos on this page ©CBI 2007

©Deb Lambert 2011

'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ July/August 2011 ~ Page 1

2011-07-30T05:00:00.001-04:00

Corliss Clips
July/August 2011..... Page 1

A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert

Small-Space Gardening and BIG Ideas!

Whether you're limited by space, or just intrigued with gardening in miniature, you'll find that variety abounds in both plant material and ornamentation. There are plants which thrive in confined spaces in sun, shade or anywhere in between. Espalier a dwarf fruit tree for a dramatic backdrop in a narrow area. Gently curving walkways of brick, or other small-scale paving material, add interest and create an illusion of greater distance. Mulching with buckwheat hulls, cocoa shells or pea stone adds a finishing touch, while conserving moisture.

Visitors, like this uninvited bullfrog, may drop by
to liven up that tiny garden and take full advantage
of your small-scale water feature.

In the proper scale, garden statuary, fountains and garden pools add interest and make wonderful focal points for a small garden. Tiny, hollowed-out granite birdbaths, that rest directly on the ground, are particularly attractive in a miniature garden. Intimate, conversational areas are easily created with stone, concrete or wooden seating.

A small garden pool complete with waterfall,
proves irresistible to the backyard bullfrog
~ left of the waterfall & contemplating a dive ~
who has decided to divide his days
between these two watery focal points.

Creating an illusion of space has become somewhat of an obsession with this backyard gardener. A yard intersected by house, fences and retaining walls is naturally comprised of small garden plots. Since part of this yard slopes down to a swamp, terracing has been a solution that has led to yet more small gardens. It's the connecting of such diverse spaces, while creating a smooth flow to the landscape, that can prove challenging.

The dogs' backyard includes a tiny brick courtyard surrounding the doghouse and leading to the back stairs. Clay pots of topiaried Ivy rest of the bricks, thriving in the cool shade of the doghouse. The functional part of this yard includes a long stretch of salt marsh hay (clean, sanitary and easily replaceable for exercising and the other things that dogs do), a tiny lawn under the clothesline, with privacy provided by a border planting of yews, a North Star cherry (self-pollinator/sour fruit for cooking), Kousa dogwood and a Zumi flowering crab.

Photo courtesy of flowerpictures.net

Buds of the Zumi crab are red, then open to lovely
white blooms. Red fall fruits are relished by the
cardinals and other fruit eating birds.

Bulbs bloom in the spring, and annuals all summer, to lend a colorful touch. A tiny herb garden borders the brick steps ~ handy to the kitchen ~ is mulched with sand (which has eliminated slug, snail and wire worm damage) and bordered by alpine strawberries.

This Japanese painted fern is but one of the semi-shade,
moisture-loving specimens that thrive with all the spilled water
(from bathing birds and gardeners who clean & refill on a daily basis)
that comes with such a water feature.

Another favorite garden is terraced with stone walls for an easy, informal atmosphere. A small flagstone walkway wends its way past Hetz juniper, azaleas, variegated pachysandra phlox and ferns. Hybrid clematis grace the fence and combine with Rudbeckia lacinata, tall red asters and goatsbeard, for a colorful backdrop. A marble slab, spanning two small boulders, serves as a seat, while a simple pedestal birdbath nestles in the corner, surrounded by ferns. A fall-blooming witch hazel, trained as a multi-stemmed tree, is a wondrous focal point (as golden foliage drops in the fall, bright yellow blooms are revealed and these persist, often into early December). This is underplanted with Ligularia and miniature blue hosta.

Hibiscus syriacus 'Aphrodite' ~ this Rose of Sharon
is lovely when trained as a small tree, or kept pruned
to the desired size, with annual trimming.

Other large shrubs to train as small trees (indeed, you may find many of these and similar specimens already trained to tree-form at local nurseries) include mist cherry, purpleleaf sand cherry, Rose of Sharon and hydrangea species (especially 'Pee Gee'). Dwarf fruit trees are effectively used as focal points, also.

'Miss Kim' a fragrant dwarf lilac maturing at 5' high by 5' wide,
providing color and a sweet scent, after the traditional lilacs
have finished blooming - perfect scale for the small garden
and a Cary Award Winner!

The list of smaller-scale flowering shrubs is vast and includes dwarf Korean lilac, Daphne, 'Shirobana' spirea, Potentilla, flowering quince, 'Crimson Pygmy' barberry, 'Blue Mist' Caryopteris, Hypericum, weigela species, 'Tom Thumb" cotoneaster, compact clethra varieties, deutzia, cutleaf stephanandra and many azalea species.

Photo courtesy flowerpictures. net

Some of the earliest color in any landscape ~ Flowering Quince
(Chaenomeles speciosa) is available in
white, red, pink and salmon on plants that mature from 4-6' high.

Available in various shades of blue, purple and pink,
"Bluebeard" or Caryopteris is a low, full shrub
bringing mounds of color to the mid and late summer garden...
another suitable specimen for the small spaces.

Photo courtesy flowerpictures.net

Weigela ~ the smallest varieties range from 18" to 4' in height ~
red or pink trumpet-shaped blooms are borne above
green, variegated, bronze or burgundy foliage.

Fir, Chamaecyparis, Juniper, Microbiota, Spruce, Pine, Arborvitae and Hemlock are all represented in the "dwarf and unusual" category of needle evergreens, with slow-growing, interesting specimens... great color, texture and outlines! Broadleaved evergreens include many rhododendron varieties, euonymus, boxwood, pieris, leucothoe and mountain laurel, in an ever-increasing array of small-scale specimens.

There are fall-planted bulbs, groundcovers, perennials and ornamental grasses suitable for small gardens. Containerized rosemary, thyme, 'Sugar Baby' geraniums, small-leaved ivies, scented geraniums and miniature roses will accent your garden during the growing season and brighten your winter windowsills. I hope you, too, discover the pleasure and challenge of small-space gardening!

(July/August continues on Page 2...)

©DJL/CBI 2011
Photos: Except where otherwise noted, photos ©CBI 2007-2008

'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ July/August 2011/Page 2

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Corliss Clips
July/August 2011..... Page 2

Let's indulge ourselves, as we peruse the sweet
blooms of summer!

Buddleia davidii

Buddleia davidii (Family: Loganiaceae) may be more familiar by its common name of Butterfly Bush (sometimes, Summer Lilac). If you want to attract butterflies, you must make room for at least one of these beauties. It is a monarch-magnet, attracting a horde of other butterflies, a variety of bees and hummingbird moths. These blossoms are so nectar-rich, that hummingbirds will dine, as well.

Hardy from Zones 5-9, we are about at the northern limit of hardiness for Buddleia. It really amounts to a woody perennial, rather than a shrub, since it usually dies back nearly to the ground. These plants fall in the 5-10' range, with the 'Nanho' series being more compact at 3-5 feet high. The newer 'English Butterfly' series is a good choice for smaller gardens.

Flowers are borne in upright or arching panicles, from 4-10" long, depending on variety. The foliage varies from dark green to grayish green, with a whitish cast (tomentose) on the undersides. I remain particularly fond of the taller specimens, which are perfect as a seasonal screen, especially nice in a tall, mixed shrub border. My old, mature 'Royal Red', sort of a deep burgundy, stands tall and proud (at 8-9' high), shouldering its way above a forest of 4-5' sunflowers. Eye-catching color contrast! Add to this, goldfinches feasting on the sunflowers, monarchs on the butterfly bush and you've got an instant wildlife sanctuary and a summer - early fall spectacular.

From these wonderful photos, you can see some of the amazing colors available. Add to the traditional blue, violet, burgundy, pink and white hybrids, several yellow or yellow/orange specimens, and you have quite a range from which to choose. Butterfly bush needs good drainage, moderate moisture, full sun and a protected location... in the lee of a fence or building or surrounded by other plant material. Mine is right alongside the road, but is protected by a fence to the north and adjacent evergreens. Every fall, it is cut back by about half its height. This eliminates winter damage, but protects the crown. In spring, it is pruned back to about 10-12" from the ground - in no time, it's 8-9' once again.

Oh, and did I mention that it has a light, sweet fragrance that even we humans can detect? In my humble opinion, no garden or backyard naturalist should be without at least one butterfly bush! As for the above visitor, it is a member of the clearwing hummingbird moth family. It more closely resembles the bumblebee moth. For a peek at these attractive moths, go to What's That Bug. You'll find a host of sphinx moth relatives on this particular page.

Clethra alnifolia

Summersweet and sweet pepperbush are common names for this uncommonly valuable landscape specimen. Clethra (Clethraceae/White Alder family) alnifolia (means alder-leaved) is native to the east coast of North America, from Maine to Florida. In the wild, C. alnifolia reaches 10 feet in height, by 8 feet wide/in cultivation, 6-8' high x 6-8' wide. A close relative, C. acuminata is also native, but is tall (to 18') and too rangy and open in habit, for most ornamental uses. In 1770, an improvement of alnifolia, by the name of 'Paniculata' was introduced - prized for vigorous habit and larger panicles of flowers.

As these top three photos indicate, blossoms are borne in terminal panicles. Sadly, what they cannot indicate, is the incredible fragrance cast upon the summer breezes, from mid/late July to mid/late August. I have a cluster of 'Paniculata' just below bedroom windows and for about one month, am lulled to sleep, as a window fan pulls in their perfume on the night air - it makes me glad I'm not all sealed in with air conditioning! (I have another month in early summer when my house is perfumed with the scent of tree lilacs - Syringa reticulata.) Anyway, since 'Paniculata' was introduced, much hybridization has resulted in a wider range of height, color and form.
In the 5-6' range, look for the pink-flowered 'Rosea' and 'Pink Spire'. Great for massing in borders, or for smaller landscapes, consider the compact, mounded growth habit of the white-flowered 'Hummingbird' and 'Sixteen Candles'.

As September nears, this is about the state of my Clethra plants, as well... a few lingering blooms, with fruits starting to form. These dry fruits may persist for 1-2 years, without pruning. I knew what I was getting into, before I decided on Clethra. It needs a fairly wet location, somewhat acidic soil and accepts full sun (fullest growth/best blooms) to partial shade.

I wanted to locate my group of three in partial sun, damp soil, next to a birdbath and in a space where it could stretch out. Perfect! Because when I consider its location and habits, along the banks of our local pond, our native specimens enjoy very similar conditions. They have plenty of room to stretch out, or colonize. In other words, these deciduous shrubs continue to spread and fill in an area, over time, in much the same way as red or yellow twig dogwoods... maybe a little better mannered/not quite as aggressive. This is a wonderful attribute to look for, where space permits and where erosion control is a concern. Clethra spreads fairly slowly, by rhizomes, and is easily contained in the shrub border.

The rest of the summersweet tale? The showy, fragrant flowers attract bees and butterflies; in fact, I've noticed the hummingbird moth frequenting my Clethras. Fall foliage is a strong yellow, remaining for an extended period. The persistent, dried fruits are attractive during winter. Clethra lends itself to hedging and mass plantings. Any pruning to maintain height and spread, can be done in early spring, since buds form on new, spring wood. Pests and problems are almost non-existent... in very dry seasons, spider mites may need controlling. With a USDA rating of Zone 3 to 9, hardiness is not an issue.

Conclusion: If space permits and you can easily meet the cultural requirements of Clethra alnifolia, or one of its hybrids, why don't you already have one (or more)? With space at a premium in today's suburban landscapes, we want multiple-use, extended-season, easy-care specimens. This one fills the bill!

(July/August continues on Page 3)

©DJL/CBI 2011

Photos ©CBI 2007

'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ July/August 2011 ~ Page 3

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Corliss Clips
July/August 2011..... Page 3

Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva'

This is an old-fashioned beauty that lost popularity for a while, but came back on the home landscape scene with a vengeance. Back in the mid 80's, conversing with an experienced plantsman about 'Tardiva', I remember his delight at seeing its reintroduction. More familiar with the ever-popular H. paniculata 'Grandiflora', I immediately went seeking more information on this plant. The more I learned, the more enthusiastic I became. Hardy to Zone 4, fairly free of insect and disease problems and a fine addition to the mixed shrub border. Finally, just 4 years ago, I added 'Tardiva' to my plant palette. While 'Tardiva' can be trained to tree form, it more effective as a multi-stemmed specimen.

We've been concentrating on late-season color, of late, and this hydrangea does not disappoint. Listed in most references as blooming in September, mine usually starts in mid to late August and continues through September. Like the other paniculata hybrids, the blend of sterile (most showy) and fertile flowers are borne in clusters, or panicles. Most are of a rounded, conical shape. 'Tardiva' bears just enough of the showy sterile flowers, to make the 8" upright conical heads really stand out in the fall garden. And like others of its species, it starts out a snowy white, gradually changing to pink, deep raspberry and finally to rust, with the onset of cooler weather.

Is this hydrangea right for your fall garden? Let's see. Full sun to partial shade, Zone 4 hardiness, not many pests, organically-enriched soil (use your compost) that is well-drained, moderate moisture and a little annual pruning. Not that demanding!

'Tardiva' blooms on new wood, which means it can be pruned in late winter or early spring, unlike the H. macrophylla (mop-head) species. It probably looks best maintained at 6-8 feet high by 6 feet wide. 'Tardiva', left on its own, may reach 10-12' (I've seen an old, neglected 15' specimen). Just before the snow flies, I trim back spindly outer growth and old flower heads. This gets the plant through winter with a minimum of breakage. In early spring, I prune more severely, above dormant buds, creating a pleasing, somewhat rounded outline. An early spring feeding of organic fertilizer helps to push out strong, new growth and flowering wood.

Like most late bloomers, 'Tardiva' attracts a few butterflies, along with lots of bees and other pollinators. Nectar sources dwindle with the approach of fall. On this, and my other late summer/fall beauties, I have every sort of pollinator you can imagine. Bumblebees and honey bees are my best "customers." I am delighted to see all this activity - it's the sign of a healthy, well-planned landscape. I am likewise delighted to observe a steadily increasing honey bee presence, over the course of this season. I see five clustered together on a sunflower head, and feel hopeful that predictions of their survival may not be quite as dire as anticipated.

My relatively young landscape was designed to attract wildlife... this was priority one. Priority two, which just naturally follows, was to include ornamental plants. Food, nesting sites, winter protection and the beauty derived from plants and wildlife - what could be better?

But, I digress. Get thee to Corliss Bros., or your local garden center, and discover the beauty of Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva' for yourself!

Caryopteris

Caryopteris, by any other name, would still be Caryopteris
(Verbenaceae family). Bluebeard, Blue-spirea and
Blue-mist shrub may be more familiar, as common names.

Most of the hybrids on today's market, Caryopteris x clandonensis, are the result of a cross between C. incana (a bit hardier, but of taller, more open habit) and C. mongolica. Listed as hardy in Zones 6-9, clandonensis clones are treated as herbaceous perennials, rather than woody shrubs. Most die back nearly to the ground, in colder climates. Prune them back by half in late fall, then prune back to 6-8" high in early spring. An early spring feeding will push out new growth.

Although Caryopteris doesn't bloom until mid to late July/early August - September, it's an attractive, mounded plant, of compact habit. Foliage varies from deep green and blue-green to silvery green or yellow. C. clandonensis hybrids range from 2-3' in height. Flowers are borne in small cymes, clustered around the uppermost leaf axils.

Flower color? Light to dark blue, deep purple to blue-violet and, in the case of the above variety 'Pink Chablis', a clear pink. For sunny borders, as single specimens, or massed for impact, Caryopteris will soon become a favorite. All bluebeards prefer full sun and moderately moist, well drained soil.

Not only will you enjoy the late-season color of Caryopteris, but you'll revel in the increased amount of backyard wildlife that it attracts. Blossoms are nectar-rich, enticing bees, butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden in late summer, just as many other shrubs and perennials are completing their flowering cycles. Here, in the Northeast, most nurseries are featuring these delightful shrubs, right now. They await your inspection at Corliss Bros., in full bloom. More importantly, they await transplanting to your own gardens. Enjoy the creatures that are sure to flock to that backyard sanctuary!

(July/August continues on Page 4)

©DJL/CBI 2011
Photos ©CBI 2007

'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ July/August 2011 ~ Page 4

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Corliss Clips
July/August 2011..... Page 4

The Genus Hibiscus

'Aphrodite' is a single, rosy-pink that graces my gardens, as well.
Naturally growing about ten feet high, by eight feet wide,
Rose-of-Sharon is ideal as a small, ornamental tree.
It is also at home in the large, mixed shrub border.
Easily pruned, it is commonly maintained at a smaller size,
even lending itself to a hedge formation.

There are several blue or lavender-blue varieties, including 'Bluebird',
'Blue Satin' and 'Coelestis'. I'm sure if this isn't 'Bluebird', I will hear
from those "in the know." In which case, I will print a correction -
fastidious garden journalist that I am.

If you guessed that this flashy member of the genus Hibiscus
is a tropical "cousin," you're right! Hibiscus rosa-sinensis,
known as Hawaiian or Chinese Hibiscus, is grown as a shrub
or small tree in tropical climes. Modern hybridizing explains
the improved color and smaller sizes currently available.
These are ideal for indoor/outdoor pot culture... often grown on
patios, porches and balconies during the summer and brought back
inside to greenhouses, plant rooms and bay windows for the winter season.
With proper care, these tender specimens will bloom year 'round.
Look for them in a rainbow of colors, from riotous to subdued.

Malvaceae is the family to which all Hibiscus belong and includes the mallows as well. From the light pink, 2" blooms of the Hollyhock Mallow (Malva alcea), to the dinner plate sized single flowers of Hibiscus moscheutos (sometimes H. palustris) or Hibiscus coccineus, there is much to celebrate with the hybridized versions of swamp rose mallow. Red, pink and white predominate, with many blooms sporting deeper throat coloration.

H. Moscheutos has large, toothed, heart-shaped foliage, while the leaves of H. coccinea sport narrow, pointed lobes. In both species, heights of 4-8 feet are common, making these outstanding, back-of-the-border perennials with a nice long summer blooming season. If space permits, locate several in the front yard, and reap the compliments!

Now, if Malva alcea (Hollyhock Mallow, above) seemed somehow familiar, you may have been thinking of the old-fashioned garden Hollyhock. While not in the Hibiscus genus, it is in the Malvaceae family and is properly referred to as Alcea rosea.

While Grandma's hollyhocks may have reached 12 feet tall, newer hybrids are usually from 3-8 feet high. You'll find single, double and frilled blossoms, available in colors ranging from almost black and deep red to pink, salmon, yellow and white. Leave these biennials (each plant lives for two years, flowering and producing seed the second year) undisturbed, for continuous blooming, year after year.

While you're hiking the New England fields and woodlands, you may come across other members of this Malvaceae family. One particular creeping specimen is known as one of the Cheeses, or common mallow. Malva neglecta has tiny rose-lavender or white flowers, with rounded leaves. At one point, I became so enamored of this little garden volunteer, I welcomed it in, transplanting one from a waste area - unfortunately, it proceeded to die. (What green thumb?) Why "cheeses?" They're named for the flat, round fruits they produce.

Today seemed a fine time to revisit the whole botanical Latin issue, especially with such a far-flung family as Malvaceae. As you may recall, I have often threatened to delve more deeply into the topic. Malva certainly highlights the necessity of our present system of plant classification.

~FINIS~

©DJL/CBI 2011
Photos ©CBI 2007

'Corliss Clips'... June 2011

2011-06-02T08:19:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips

June 2011

The Joys of June

The fact that we actually had a fleeting spring season (some might say non-existent), which seems to be leading directly into July-like weather, has been the cause for a certain amount of grousing throughout the gardening community. Most of us are just so grateful to see the return of sunny days, we dare not complain about heat, lest Mother Nature rescind this largess. After all, this is New England... so, we move on. I feel fairly safe in stating that the danger of frost has past, not to return until autumn. As garden compatriots all over the North Shore celebrate the waning days of "spring" and anticipate long summer days, their attention turns to the planting and cultivation of tender annuals, vegetables and herbs. Time to roll up our sleeves and get to work, in earnest!

"NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED"

• Flower seeds - Last chance to sow any of the fast-germinating annual flowers like cosmos, bachelor buttons and zinnias. This late sowing will produce strong mid to late-season color. Plant perennials and biennials from seed from mid-July to mid-August, and avoid the indoor starting task, as well as waiting the entire first season for blooms. Sown in the garden at that time, they’ll germinate, get established and winter over (don’t forget a little winter mulch or weed-free straw or salt march hay, after the ground freezes) and start to bloom their first full season. Unfortunately, most of our seeds will be gone by then, so stock up now while the selection is strong.

• Vegetable seeds - Sow a second crop of carrots, beets, radishes and lettuce. By reseeding short-season crops every few weeks, you’ll enjoy extended harvests. Even bush beans can be re-sown two or three times during the season. For fall crops of broccoli, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts, start seeds anytime now. You’ll be ready to transplant them, after harvesting the spring crops.

• Herb seeds - With these warm soil temperatures, you should have success with parsley and basil, but many herbs require an early start and should be readily available as potted specimens. Pick up a few packets of herb seeds now, for indoor culture this fall... start them on a sunny windowsill in September and harvest fresh herbs all winter! Right now, add your favorite potted, culinary herbs to that kitchen garden for great summer fare.

• Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants thrive in warm weather, so transplant these tender specimens now. No, it's not too late! Because of the warm soil temperatures, plants set out in June quickly catch up to their earlier planted counterparts... with only a minor delay in harvest. Prepare a deep hole for tomato plants, burying the stem up to the lowest set of leaves. This is about the only plant that will thrive when planted so deeply, developing an enhanced root system along the entire buried stalk. Avoid blossom end rot later in the season, by applying calcium-rich lime at planting time. While other factors (like inconsistent watering) may combine to accelerate this problem, the usual culprit, especially on tomatoes, is lack of calcium and magnesium - both of which are available in pelletized lime. If you do experience blossom end rot on the first fruits, apply Rot Stop by Bonide® (calcium in liquid concentrate form) or Nutri-Cal®, readily available liquid calcium in a convenient ready-to-use sprayer. Nutri-Cal® addresses a number of plant maladies, including blossom end rot on melons and squash, internal potato rot and tip burn. By allowing calcium to be absorbed directly through the cell walls of foliage, fruits and vegetables, results are immediate and lead to reliable fruit set, increased yield, better flavor and enhanced flowering on ornamental specimens.

• Feeding Edibles & Bedding Plants... vegetable crops should be side-dressed every 4-5 weeks, or each time successive crops are started, with Garden-tone or Plant-tone. You may also choose to apply Tomato-tone to increase tomato production. In addition, every 10-14 days, foliar feed or root feed with Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer... the difference in plant health, yield and flavor will amaze you! [Note: each spring, as you improve the soil, adding compost and other organics, add rock phosphate, as well... for increased production and more prolific root crops.] For annuals and perennials, give an initial spring feeding with Plant-tone and rock phosphate, then follow the above liquid fertilizer program.

• Feeding Trees ~ Flowering and shade trees benefit from a spring or fall fertilization, using Plant-tone, Tree-tone or Holly-tone, depending on variety. Consider supplementing with rock phosphate at the same time, for increased root structure and better blossom production. Established trees are fed using the bar-feeding method... with a crowbar, create a series of 4-5" deep holes around the dripline (draw an imaginary line from outer branch tips to the soil) and deliver the fertilizer into these holes. For the first two seasons, newly planted trees are fed by scattering the fertilizer just inside that dripline (roots are not extending to the dripline, yet). Lightly cultivate the plant food into the soil and water.

• Ornamental Shrubs ~ For deciduous, needled evergreens or broadleaf evergreens, a spring or fall feeding of complete, natural, granular plant food (Holly-tone or Plant-tone, depending on plant preference) is combined with rock phosphate. An optimum feeding program would be this combination (rock phosphate is only applied once per season) in spring, a light July 4th feeding (this bolsters blossom formation of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, etc.) and a late fall feeding.

• Roses ~ These heavy feeders should receive Rose-tone every 4 weeks from early April until early August. There are combination rose products, in granular or liquid form, that feed while providing insect and/or fungus control... follow recommended timing and application rates. Whichever your fertilizer choice, applying Neptune's Harvest every ten to 14 days will further enhance disease resistance. Consider preventative applications of fungicide to keep black spot and powdery mildew at bay. Serenade® is a bacterial fungicide, not a chemical. Rose Pharm® is a combination of canola oil, rosemary oil and peppermint oil. Alternatively, you might try the Cornell Mix to stop fungus spores from settling on leaf surfaces. One other familiar home treatment is the Cornell remedy. Mix one tablespoon each of baking soda, horticultural oil and liquid soap per gallon of water. Fungal spore germination is slowed down, since baking soda raises the leaf surface pH. The oil and soap suffocate any existing spores.

• Annuals - Potted specimens are still available, ready for planting in gardens and containers. If time is at a premium, you’ll find pre-planted pots and hanging baskets. Gaining in popularity, are containers or baskets sporting a mixture of well-coordinated flowers. These are especially handy for busy homeowners, or home sellers in need of some instant “curb appeal.” However, if time permits, it really is more rewarding and satisfying to create your own annual combinations. The array of new and unusual varieties, as well as recent hybrids of old favorites, increases every season... we’ve moved beyond the limited choices of yesteryear. Whether you plant in containers or garden beds, the sun or shade available will dictate plant choices. Provide adequate moisture, well drained soil, organic fertilizer and deadhead regularly for success wherever your annuals are planted. Enjoy these colorful accents for the rest of the summer!

• Pinching - Not the same as deadheading, this is the process of cutting back the main stems of certain notoriously leggy perennials, before bud-set. Fall-blooming chrysanthemums and asters are great candidates for this procedure. Cut top growth back by 4-6”, just above foliage, every two weeks until mid to late July. The resulting, stockier plants will yield a profusion of larger blooms and the need for support stakes is usually eliminated. Combine with an application of Neptune's Harvest each time, to enhance the affects of your pinching.

• Deadheading - This removal of spent flowers is as valuable for perennials, as it is for annuals. Preventing seed production leads to increased bud formation and healthier, more vigorous new growth. Regular feeding (every 10-14 days with liquid feed) will enhance this entire process.

• Flowering shrubs - You have 4-6 weeks between flower drop and bud-set for next season, to perform any needed pruning on flowering shrubs, be they evergreen or deciduous. So you don't interrupt the new growth cycle, it's really best to prune as soon as blossoms fade. Early bloomers like flowering quince, forsythia and many varieties of rhododendron and azalea, should be pruned quickly, before new growth is initiated. Granular, organic fertilizer applied now, along with rock phosphate, will further strengthen new growth and flower production.

• Vigilance - As you water, feed and otherwise maintain your entire landscape, keep a watchful eye on those plants for the first signs of insect or disease problems. If you have natural controls, like aphid-eating ladybugs or slug-devouring toads, let nature take its course. If human intervention is deemed necessary, then check with garden center staff for the most effective, safest controls. Need an ID? Bring along photos, effected plant portions, foliage or insect specimens for an in-store consultation.

• June drop - Apples and peaches are essentially self-thinning, dropping a significant quantity of fruit, which allows space for the growth and ripening of the remaining harvest. If too little fruit drops, further thinning may be required by the orchardist (you). Allowing enough space for developing fruit to mature and ripen, will lessen insect and disease problems... usually 4-6" between fruit spurs.

• Mulch - Make sure ornamental beds and vegetable gardens are mulched with 2-3” of organic matter to conserve moisture, retard weed growth and moderate the effects of hot summer sun. Choose from bark mulch, bagged compost, co-co shells, buckwheat hulls, peat, weed-free straw/hay mulch, weed-free salt marsh hay and your finished compost... each has its advantages, according to location and your individual preference. But never, ever have your mulch of choice in direct contact with the main stems or trunks of woody ornamentals... likewise with the stems of annuals and perennials, which require only about 1" of mulch. Over-mulching precludes needed oxygen from reaching surface roots; in fact, the oxygen is displaced by moisture, keeping the surface roots too wet and suffocating the plant.

• Water - Soaker hoses and drip systems are efficient delivery methods, eliminating wet foliage and subsequent sun scorch or disease problems. Be sure to water newly-planted nursery stock, according to nursery recommendations, throughout the season. Making a saucer-like "bowl" by creating a circular berm (with soil or mulch) atop the rootball area, allows your watering to penetrate to the deeper roots. In general, filling that "soup bowl" three times constitutes one deep watering... performing this deep watering once or twice a week is usually sufficient. Variables include soil type, sun and wind exposure, natural rainfall and the individual needs of your new plant.

• Lawns ~ In spring we raise mower height to 2”, 21/2” and gradually to 3” (where it should be now) for summer mowing. This discourages weeds, protects turf roots from the sun, encourages a deeper root system and conserves moisture. Lawn weeds are active and should be controlled now, before the onset of summer heat. Whether liquid or granular, such contact controls will clear the lawn of vining and broadleaf weeds; although, some of the more tenacious vining specimens (ground ivy, etc.) may need a second application. The selective, iron-based natural weed control that we've carried is becoming a scarcity... hopefully, another manufacturer will step in and start producing this natural product... for now, it's back to digging and pulling, if you have an organic lawn. A late summer application of corn gluten will keep weed seed from germinating (do not use this if you are overseeding with grass seed this fall).

GrubEx, and other long-term controls for beetle grubs, should be applied anytime from mid-June (ideal) to late July. This timing assures the best control of newly-hatched grubs. They will feed on surface grass roots from August, well into October. Consider Milky Spore Disease, a long-lasting organic alternative to chemical grub control. Beneficial nematodes are another safe option.

Lawn irrigation should occur in the early hours of morning, so the grass blades dry before the sun is strong, minimizing moisture loss through evaporation. Lawns watered in the evening are susceptible to invasion by pathogens, such as powdery mildew. One inch of water per week, a combination of rainfall and your irrigation, should be sufficient for an established lawn. Look into the advantages of the newest technologies in irrigation systems, which take all the mitigating factors into consideration for the most efficient use of water [Corliss Landscape & Irrigation installs the Et system and retrofits this into existing systems, as well.] Consider using Jonathan Green's Black Beauty Ultra® next time you reseed or start a new area.... the tall fescue hybrids will produce 2-3' deep roots, able to draw moisture from much deeper levels than traditional turf grasses, ideal during times of drought and on rough terrain.

• Pleasant Pursuits - Plant a shade tree, plant raspberries and strawberries, plant a backyard orchard with manageable dwarf and semi-dwarf trees, incorporate ornamental grasses for visual and audible interest and start an herb garden. Establish a backyard wildlife sanctuary, including water, nesting and natural food sources, and prepare to be amazed by nature. Plant sunflowers and cosmos for goldfinches, butterfly bushes for Monarchs, bee balm for honeybees, revel in the flavor of homegrown produce, show a child how to grow food, eat your sun-warmed strawberries in the garden, throw a garden party... in short, indulge in the many joys of June!

Text & Photos: ©Deb Lambert 2011

'Corliss Clips'... May 2011

2011-04-26T05:00:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
May 2011

A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert

Peach Flowering Quince 'Cameo'

Species tulip

Sweet violets

Purple Leaf Sand Cherry

Pink Hyacinth

Dicentra eximia

Kwanzan Flowering Cherry

Double Japanese Kerria

'Snow Fountains' Weeping Cherry

Take a drive in the country... enjoy the spring!

NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED

Sun, warm breezes and birdsong - I do believe that spring has finally arrived, in all her glory. All but forgotten is the cold, wet, gloomy start of spring in New England. With shirtsleeves rolled up, we are only too glad to devote the hours necessary, as we kick-start a brand new season of gardening. Although most of us were able to perform the most pressing cleanup and maintenance chores, between rain-showers, there remains much that requires almost immediate attention.

• Lawns can still be established, although delaying too long means ever-increasing competition, as weed seeds germinate. Select a high-phosphorus fertilizer, to stimulate strong root production, for seed or sod lawns.

• Because the cold, wet spring should delay crabgrass seed germination, you can apply crabgrass preventative until mid-May (at the latest) and still have a good result. Be sure to choose the product appropriate to your situation, be it a new or established lawn.

• Products containing corn gluten will halt seed germination organically, in lawn and garden areas. Just remember that this is a non-selective solution - not to be used when seeding (check labels for time delays... example - apply now, seed in the fall).

• Contact-kill broadleaf and vining weeds with liquid or granular controls. Many of the granular products include a high-nitrogen lawn food. If weeds are not too prolific, dig them out, before they produce more seed... maybe the family will help(?)!

• May is ideal for a second application of high-nitrogen lawn food. Explore all the options. Usually, longer-lasting organic foods are applied less often, negating concern over slightly higher price points. Feeding the lawn by nourishing the soil makes sense!

• As soils finally warm, apply Milky Spore Disease (Bacillus thuringiensis or “B.t.”) for long-term Japanese Beetle control, following reapplication schedules.

• Soil preparation for flower and vegetable gardens should include organic granular fertilizer, rock phosphate (or superphosphate, 0-20-0) and pelletized lime, worked into the soil at the rate of 5# of each per 100 square feet. Add dehydrated cow manure at 25# per 100 square feet and generous amounts of peat or compost, for moisture retention and improved soil structure. Add garden gypsum to improve heavy clay soils.

• Asparagus beds are established now, with organic granular fertilizer and plenty of organic material, employing the trench-method.

• Cool-weather crops, seed potatoes and onion sets are planted early in the month.

• Carrots, beets and other root crops are sown, early to mid-May. With a safe frost date of Memorial Day, May 15 is the earliest date for planting such tender crops as beans. Most flower and vegetable seedlings, once hardened-off, are set out closer to May 30. Look into such devices as spun row covers, to extend the growing season.

• Explore the incorporation of organics and safer control measures, into your home gardening program. Keep an open mind, when reviewing new research which indicates that we may be guilty of over-cultivation (especially rototilling), destroying naturally-occuring bacteria and mycorrhizal fungi, integral soil-building components. As we become wiser and better-informed about the health of this planet, we begin to alter the way we’ve always done things - it’s an exciting time to be a gardener!

• Small fruits, such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, grapes and rhubarb can be successfully established anytime now. Don’t skimp on organics, like compost!

• Add beauty and food to the home landscape with fruit trees. Dwarf and semi-dwarf specimens are perfectly scaled for backyard culture, making maintenance and harvesting much easier tasks. Many require another variety for cross-pollination.

• Pruning, not shearing, of needled evergreens can be done now, to take advantage of the spring growth flush. Otherwise, wait until new growth hardens-off, in late July.

• Rhododendrons, azaleas and other flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon as blossoms fade, since next year’s buds are set about six weeks after flowering. Fertilize at the same time, to encourage heavier flower set for next season.

• Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs should be fed as soon as flowers fade, while foliage is intact, to strengthen bulbs for next year.

• Feed your landscape with the appropriate fertilizers. Good organic or highly organic blends are offered by the Espoma Company... Plant-tone® (general-purpose) and Holly-tone® (for acid-tolerant species) are two popular choices. Supplement with superphosphate or rock phosphate, for all flowering and fruiting plants. Be sure the soil pH is optimum for the plants you cultivate and adjust with lime to raise the pH, or with an acidifier (aluminum sulfate, garden sulfur, cottonseed meal, etc.) to lower the pH, as needed.

• Keep young pines more compact by cutting “candles” halfway back.

• Winter moth, cankerworm, gypsy moth, birchleaf miner and Asiatic lily beetle are some of the early-season pests that need addressing... check with staff for safest control options.

• Freshen up planting beds with a top-dressing of new bark mulch or compost - not deeper than 2-3”, total. Keep mulch from contacting stems, trunks and branches.

• Resist the impulse to bring home lots of new plant specimens, unless, of course, you’re working from a practical plan. Such plans must take into consideration all the “givens” within your home landscape. Ask questions and do a little research, before finalizing your plant choices. You’ll save time, effort and money with proper planning.

• Consider adding a new focal point to an established garden. An arbor, with or without benches, is the perfect way to introduce a cozy, “garden room” feel, especially when covered with the abundant fragrant blossoms of a climbing rose.

MOTHER'S DAY...for gardening moms!

Mother’s Day is a great time for living gifts. Trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, annuals, herbs and hanging baskets are just some of the choices. Garden ornamentation, like statues, birdbaths and benches are ideal for gifting. Garden books, wildlife guides, garden tools, decorative pots, watering cans and wonderful gardener gifts await your selection... Corliss Bros. gift certificates can be ordered by phone (978-356-7284) and are a thoughtful option for experienced gardeners, who wish to make their own selection.

'Valley Valentine' Pieris

Handcrafted garden tools with great guarantees!

MUCK BOOT COMPANY... creators of

garden shoes and boots for every situation.

'Royal Star' Magnolia

Dicentra eximia

Dwarf, fringed bleeding heart... native species

'Blue Jay' Dwarf Pine

Garden hats of every description!

Azalea mucronulatum

Real specimen conifers

Weeping 'Snow Fountains' Cherry

Amazing, unique needled evergreens... so many fall into

the "dwarf and unusual" category ~ what Mom needs

for conifer beds and smaller landscapes.

We've got the "Ipswich Blues" for you!

'Leonard Messel' Magnolia

Give Mom a hand, or at least

a great pair of new garden gloves!

"Undivided attention," as this pup seems mesmerized

by the gently splashing fountain.

Books of interest to local gardeners and naturalists,

by local authors!

'Dorothy Wycoff' Pieris

"LAWNGRIPS" ~ another producer

of practical gardener's foot ware.

Keep a lid on it!

Contain and recycle yard waste and kitchen scraps

(vegetation, only) in one of our practical, easily managed

compost bins. Add in a compost turner and compost

thermometer, for the perfect Mother's Day gift!

Get the whole picture... practical tips and lots of good

info on the whole topic of backyard recycling.

Patio furniture, arbors, trellises and gorgeous

pottery for those patios and garden rooms.

We've got everything for your gardening mom,

including a way to keep track of time in the garden!

Take a trip to our garden center, like 'GardenPup',

and enjoy preparing for the 2011 season...

your favorite gardener will enjoy her special day,

when you make it a Corliss Mother's Day!

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!

From all of us at Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery

'CORLISS CLIPS'/April 2011/Page 1

2011-03-30T07:00:00.001-04:00

Corliss Clips

April 2011..... Page 1

A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening enthusiasts...

offered with the hope that our Zone 5 garden experiences

will prove useful, wherever on that USDA map you garden.

Presented by Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery
Authored by Deb Lambert

Robins and other migratory birds will view our backyards
as breeding and nesting territories. Make them feel welcome,
enjoy their companionship and learn from nature!
(Photo: ©CBI 2007)

Ah... April! Gentle breezes, warming soils and the return of our migratory songbirds entice winter-weary gardeners to commence the new season, in earnest. As you prune, plant and cultivate, keep an eye out for those delightful signs of spring... birds courting, building nests, laying eggs and caring for nestlings.

With the return of these sweet singing, finely feathered guests, comes the added benefit of insect control, as local and migratory birds turn to insects as a daily dietary staple, for themselves and their progeny. Insects account for up to 90% of the diet of some birds, well into summer. Obviously, it's to our advantage to encourage the presence of these birds.

Have you mounted robin shelves, nesting boxes and birdhouses? Fall, or earliest spring are the best times to provide housing, but some birds may be still seeking nesting spots and there are species that lay a second or third clutch of eggs, as the season progresses. If the first nest has been destroyed by a predator, many birds will go on to lay a second clutch and may be searching for a safer location. That birdhouse will be put to good use.

If you continue to offer seed, to further encourage the birds' presence, be very sure to clean and sterilize those feeders regularly, especially after a rainy spell. This is even more critical than during winter. As organic matter breaks down, in the feeder base, harmful bacteria builds up and is responsible for illnesses that range from a pneumonia-like disease, to blindness and subsequent starvation. If you wish to continue attracting woodpeckers, offer the no-melt suet cakes. And, for bathing and drinking, provide at least one source of clean water. Keep the vessel scrubbed and the water sparkling, for a constant flurry of activity. If possible, maintain two or three water sources, for a broader range of visitors.

Consider adding a roosting box to the mix, and your backyard birds will have shelter during those April showers. Look into hummingbird and oriole nectar feeders. Hang orange slices for the orioles. Combine all the preceding features, and you'll be enthralled by the quantity and quality of feathered guests. It's a great way to keep a tally of, and learn more about, the birds that frequent our home environs. And garden carefully and responsibly, so that none of your applications are counterproductive to the pest control services provided by those same guests.

An April Agenda

First, let me acknowledge that April is National Garden Month® and is a time when public and private educational programs abound at botanical gardens, arboretums, parks, libraries and garden centers. The National Garden Bureau is a non-profit organization founded in 1920 to disseminate accurate gardening information... visit their user-friendly website at www.ngb.org. The National Gardening Association, at www.garden.org, is a non-profit leader in plant-based education, promoting community gardening, to nurture essential connections between people, plants and the environment.

For many of us, especially here in New England, March was cold, rather wet and, at times, snowy. So, many of your early spring chores are unfinished and your March checklist is incomplete. If you missed last month's 'Corliss Clips,' just scroll down to March 2011... the March garden activities list starts under "Notes from the Garden Shed" and is broken down into manageable, bite-sized pieces.

This early in the season, there's bound to be some repetition of important early chores, so please excuse any redundancy, as we organize for April... (continued on Page 2)

©DJL/CBI 2011

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

'CORLISS CLIPS'/April 2011/Page 2

2011-03-30T06:45:00.001-04:00

Corliss Clips

April 2011..... Page 2

This April checklist, when combined with a few leftover tasks from our March agenda (scroll down to March, if you missed these) will serve as a reminder of what needs tending to, in this busy season. You may also find some exciting new projects along the way.

✓ As soils begin to warm and dry sufficiently, becoming friable, we begin to prepare flower and vegetable beds for planting. Turn all that "green manure," from last fall's winter cover crops, back into the soil. Adding organic matter, in the form of compost, peat humus, composted cow or chicken manure, is the first and most important step. These are tilled in, about the depth of a spading fork. The following items, as need indicates, are raked into the top 3-4" with a steel garden rake: Incorporate pelletized lime (to raise pH & provide calcium and magnesium), rock phosphate and gypsum (for poor drainage and a calcium boost) into the soil. If unsure about soil acidity or fertility, a soil test will guide you to the proper additives and quantities. Following manufacturer's directions, add an organic, granular plant food (Plant-Tone®, etc.) along with these. You're ready to sow seed or set out transplants, weather permitting. Here in Zone 5, May 30th is our frost-free date for tender plants, although we often set hardened-off transplants in the garden (fingers crossed), as early as mid-May.

'Delicious' Apple (Photo: flowerpictures.net)

✓ Add beauty, and food value, to the home landscape with fruit trees. The dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties make pruning and maintenance easier, and their smaller size make them ideal for the backyard orchard. Many need a cross-pollinator for a successful harvest. Consult a fruit tree book and/or purveyor of fruit trees, before making your final choices.

✓ Like fruit trees, the smaller fruits respond well to early spring planting, having the entire season to become established. Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, grapes and rhubarb will reward you for years to come, with relatively low maintenance and high yield.

✓ Asparagus beds are established now, with granular, organic fertilizer, rock phosphate and lots of compost and organic material, using the traditional trench method.

✓ Cool-weather crops, seed potatoes and onion sets are planted now. And don't forget those pea seeds it was too cold to sow, back in March.

✓ Carrots, beets and other root crops can be safely started. Chard, spinach, lettuce and many leafy greens thrive with a cool-weather start. Again, remember to check that frost-safe date for your area. Use common sense on all these early spring recommendations. There are so many variables, especially here in New England, where spring can be a fickle thing. Plant the beans and more tender crops after May 15th. Look into season-extenders, like cold frames, row covers and 'Wall-O-Water.' These make the optimum use of solar heat and allow us to fool Mother Nature... well, at least a little.

✓ Pruning - Shrubs and vines that bloom summer-fall, flower on new wood, so any renewal pruning can be done until foliage starts to unfurl. The 'Tardiva' Hydrangea above, Buddleia (butterfly bush), Caryopteris (Blue Mist Spirea), Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon), certain summer flowering Clematis vines and Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis paniculata) are among the specimens that respond well to spring pruning.

✓ Spring-flowering shrubs, including Rhododendrons and Azaleas, are best pruned right after blooms fade, since next season's buds are set about six weeks after flowering. Fertilize soon, to increase next year's bud-set.

✓ Pruning, but not shearing, of needled evergreens is done now, to take advantage of the spring growth flush. Otherwise, wait until the new growth hardens-off, in late July.

✓ A high quality broadcast spreader, like this 'Earth-Way,' is an efficient way to apply lawn products and grass seed. Properly cared for and maintained, such a spreader should last for years. Be sure your spreader is cleaned and oiled - ready for the new season.

✓ This is the month (usually up until may 10th) for preventing the germination of crabgrass. Typical 4-step programs include in step 1, a combination high-nitrogen fertilizer with a crabgrass preventative. Such a product also prevents grass seed germination, so if you're planning to over-seed, choose another product that selectively halts only the crabgrass.

✓ Going organic? Organica®, Espoma® and Jonathan Green® offer great products to launch your lawn into the safer, though sometimes puzzling, world of organics. Come in and let us custom-design an organic program for your lawn. Kelp Booster is incredibly well-suited for application when reseeding or starting a new lawn. We have balanced organic fertilizers for use when seeding, or when crabgrass prevention is not a concern. Corn gluten prevents crabgrass germination (this also breaks down and provides protein to nourish beneficial microorganisms). Corn gluten also prevents all weed seed from germinating, but is non-selective, so cannot be used when reseeding. (Technically, corn gluten allows seedlings to germinate, but quickly destroys the tiny roots.. so is considered a preventative measure.) Many of these organic programs include beneficial microbes, which add to a healthy soil base and strong turf.

✓ New lawns are established this month, from seed or sod.

✓ If you're using 'Merit' for Japanese beetle grub control, a June application will last through August to control newly-hatched grubs, as well. For an organic alternative, consider Milky Spore Disease, a totally natural control.

✓ Tired of waiting until warm weather for a bit of color? A hanging basket of pansies, violas edging a walkway or Johnny Jump-Ups in a window box, will bring a touch of spring and a cold-hardy spot of color, while we await weather suitable for tender annuals. Cold winds, cold weather and nights below freezing, have us waiting to bring in these harbingers of spring... with moderating temperatures, they'll be arriving soon!

✓ Honeybees are in trouble, their population dying off, perhaps from several causes. This is a serious situation, with a broad range of implications, including a huge economic impact. Other bees and pollinators, like the above bumblebee, have become even more valuable. Look into organic, earth-friendly alternatives as you feed and care for your landscape. Be aware that everything we use has some effect on the environment... the smaller the impact, the better.
(continued on Page 3..)

Photos, unless otherwise accredited, ©CBI 2007-2011
©DJL/CBI 2011

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

'CORLISS CLIPS'/April 2011/Page 3

2011-03-30T06:30:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
April 2011..... Page 3

✓ Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs should be fed as soon as flowers fade, to strengthen bulbs, as they commence the formation of next season's blooms. Several handfuls of Espoma's Plant-Tone, along with a little rock phosphate, are lightly scratched into the soil, then watered in. Leave the foliage intact, but feel free to snap off spent blooms. As leaves die back to the soil, nutrients, bolstered by those that you've applied, are taken into the bulb... ensuring a spectacular 2012 flower show.

Tulip & Daffodil Photos: Courtesy 'Flower Pictures'

✓ Time to feed the entire landscape. Help those weary older specimens to push out fresh, healthy new growth, as well as tending to the nutritional needs of new plantings. There are many choices, both liquid and granular. Whatever your needs, the organic offerings are the wisest choice... for your plants and the environment. Organic fertilizers last longer, offer a more accessible form of nutrients, have lower impact on the environment than chemical alternatives and help to build a healthy soil.

✓ An all-organic way to give new plants a "leg up."

• This water-soluble Plant Growth Activator is applied as a soil drench (or in a hose-end sprayer to foliage), for established beds or during the transplanting process. In addition to natural growth components, this product introduces beneficial soil bacteria and actinomyces (another form of beneficial bacterium/47 strains, in total) to accelerate growth and enhance plant functions.

✓ Our own Corliss Bros. Planting Mixture is compost-based and specially formulated to give plants a great start, as they root in. The addition of beneficial microbes in a real plus in maintaining a healthy environment for these roots, as they extend into your well-prepared planting hole.

• From Espoma® ~ All natural plant food with bacteria, humates

and mycorrhizae, for enhanced root development.

✓ Since 1929, the Espoma® Company has been producing a fine line of granular, organic fertilizers. Their basic Plant-Tone and Holly-Tone formulations provide a substantial feeding for most of the landscape, with Holly-Tone being reserved for acid-tolerant specimens. They also produce some very plant-specific foods, including Rose-Tone and Tree-Tone.

Whatever your choice, follow package application rates and timing (roses, perennials, annuals and vegetables need monthly feedings - woody ornamentals, spring and fall). For all established plants, concentrate applications at the dripline (located below branch tips), where feeder roots are located. Lightly till it into the soil and follow up with a thorough watering.
✓ Neptune's Harvest® Organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer... This locally-produced (Gloucester, MA), water-soluble fertilizer provides the benefits of fish hydrolysate and seaweed, in a combination that promotes increased blossom color and fragrance, higher yields and increased overall health. (In my own gardens, I stepped up my twice-monthly applications, to weekly, for 'Emerald Green' Arborvitaes under attack by spider mites. After 4 weekly applications, my hedge was insect-free and returned to full vigor. I can only assume that the high concentration of natural sugar, built up by the fish/seaweed blend, was more than the mites could digest and they moved on to my neighbor's undernourished landscape.) You can use this on absolutely anything, including as a compost activator...

Note: This compost bin from Achla® is being offered at the best price of the past year ~ call and ask for pricing and details...The Pyramid Composter is made from durable, recyclable plastic. Assembles easily with thumb screws. Dimensions: 38 IN H. 29 IN W. x 31 IN W. (at door).

✓ And speaking of compost, harvest that backyard black-gold. Spread it around as a mulch and work it into planting beds. As you incorporate this finished compost into your landscape, the beneficial microbes that helped create this marvelous stuff, drop down and continue improving your existing soil base. Haven't started a compost pile? Still perching those brown paper leaf bags curbside, each fall? The compost bin, pictured above, is fine for the small yard and is a handy way to dispose of all those fruit and vegetable scraps from the kitchen.

Larger bins or wire-encircled piles will be better suited for large landscapes, yielding lots of finished compost. Compost thermometers will help you regulate the interior temperature of the pile. The right balance of green and brown material, as well as a good balance of moisture and air, will ensure a good end product. A compost activator, such as mentioned above, or Compost Accelerator by Organica® will hasten the process. The latter actually introduces additional bacteria and fungi to the pile, for a host of benefits.

'Kwanzan' Flowering Cherry Photo: Courtesy 'Flower Pictures'
Look for this favorite late April bloomer... so versatile and hardy,
that it's often used as a street tree.

✓ Mulch borders, or freshen them up by adding a light layer of mulch across the surface. Shredded pine or a pine/hemlock mix (or the semi-composted 'dark bark') probably remain the most popular mulches, because of their neutral coloration. They don't distract from flower color and they do sort of "knit" together, making shredded bark ideal, even on slight inclines.
(continued on Page 4...)

©DJL/CBI 2011

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

'CORLISS CLIPS'/April 2011/Page 4

2011-03-30T06:15:00.000-04:00

Corliss Clips
April 2011..... Page 4

From the Garden Shed...
Let's go inside, for a quick inventory.
How does your tool collection measure up?
New to gardening? Let's look at some of the
most important garden tools and discuss
a few of the differences...

Photo: Courtesy of Post Woodworking
(Sheds on display at Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery)

Long-handled and D-handled Shovels -
Excellent for removing soil from planting holes.
(Some gardeners use these instead of spades, for planting.)
The smallest blade is a floral shovel,
suitable for working around annuals and perennials.

Planting Spades, long-handled and D-handled...
the preferred tool for planting shrubs and trees -
cuts a neat, precise hole. Follow up with a shovel,
as above, to clean out the planting hole.

Spading Forks- excellent for turning soil,
dividing large clumps of perennials, turning
compost and moving bark mulch.
(Sometimes called "pitchforks" - they are not.)

This, however, is a pitchfork, or hay fork.
Handy for moving hay and shredded bark mulch.

Garden Rakes: level-head rake (left) and bow rake (right).
Both are good at raking out tilled beds. The bow rake,
flipped over, is excellent for the final leveling
of a garden or new lawn area.

Metal spring rakes (heaviest duty of the lawn rakes) -
resilient and ideal for removing light lawn debris in spring,
or raking leaves, come fall.
Narrow version is handy for cleaning around shrubs.

A dethatching rake... gardener-powered!
If your lawn is small, this is a good way to remove
the dead grass plants and fallen clippings that form
a suffocating thatch layer on lawn surfaces.
For large lawns, consider renting a power dethatcher.

Lawn rakes... the old standby - bamboo is good
for raking leaves and grass clippings.
Not meant for digging into the turf. Plastic models
are tougher and stand up to heavier usage.

Long-handled and short-handled edgers.
Just the right tool for edging out new beds
or re-cutting existing edges. Be sure to keep
the edge sharpened, for best results.

Left to right: garden pick mattock, garden mattock, pick ax.
These are the tools, not shovels or rakes, that loosen and
dig up the rocks we encounter when planting or performing
DIY feats around the backyard.

An assortment of high quality tool heads,
each of which locks onto a universal fiberglass handle.
Space and money saver!

A drop spreader... lawn products drop directly onto the turf -
overlap a wheel's width, each trip across the lawn. Good for
small lawns and for materials (like weed controls) that would
otherwise blow around, causing damage to the landscape.

A broadcast spreader. Good for large areas,
spreading a 4-8' swath of lawn product
(beware of weed control application). Pelletized lime,
rather than finer forms, are best for this type of spreader.

Pruners - At the bottom, a pair of 'Snap-Cut' anvil pruners
(cutting blade drops down upon anvil), good for general pruning,
especially for heavier-barked stems. The other two are 'Felco'
bypass pruners (scissor-cut action) - ideal for general
purpose/especially for thin-barked specimens like roses.

Loppers... Never use hand pruners to cut overly-large limbs.
Loppers (bypass on left/anvil on right) take a "bigger bite"
and have long handles for better leverage. If your branch is
too big for loppers, switch to a pruning saw. If you force
pruners or loppers through a too-large limb, there's a good
chance they'll twist and become misaligned,
often never cutting properly, again.

Two pairs of bypass loppers. Below this, hedge shears...
non-electric/gardener-powered! These are nice for
topiary and smaller hedges, and shearing projects
requiring a finer touch.

A glimpse of the good things to come, this spring. Interest in Hydrangeas is at an all-time high. These old-fashioned favorites have undergone quite a change in recent years. Older varieties retain loyal fans, but glamorous new hybrids are stealing the show. Variegated foliage, improved flowering and specimens that bloom on new and old wood, mean that we Zone 5 gardeners can enjoy more reliable blooms, despite tough winters that sometimes damage over-wintering flower buds.

Above, we see Hydrangea macrophylla 'Nigra' which matures at 3-4' high and 3-4' wide. First, we have a striking contrast between the bright green foliage and black stems, then the pink or bluish (depends on soil acidity) blossoms add further drama.

"Persistence"

Persistence comes to mind, in observing the tenacity of this spurge, filling the cracks of this walkway. We persevered, in the face of March's uncertain weather, and we'll persist in spite of April's fickleness, looking forward to the promise of May.

Photos: ©CBI 2007-2011
©DJL/CBI 2011

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

'CORLISS CLIPS' ~ MARCH 2011

2011-02-28T07:00:00.000-05:00

Corliss Clips
March 2011

A monthly newsletter for fellow gardening
enthusiasts... offered with the hope that our Zone 5
garden experiences will prove useful, wherever on that
USDA map you garden. Presented by Corliss Bros.
Garden Center & Nursery / Authored by Deb Lambert

As we plan a successful new season of gardening, with winter lingering beyond the windowpane, let's ignore those "wintry mixes" and turn our attention to attractive new candidates for the home landscape. Here's a little something to cure those late winter blues, alleviate your spring fever and get you out of that recliner... maybe get you dancing?

Twist-n-Shout™

[Botanical Name: Hydrangea macrophylla 'PIIHM-I' (PPAF)
Common Name: Endless Summer® Twist-n-Shout™ Bigleaf Hydrangea]

Meet this recent addition to the Endless Summer® family. Like the two previous introductions, this reblooming lacecap hydrangea produces flowers on new and old wood... making it perfect for tough New England winters... no more non-blooming macrophylla hydrangeas for you, with loss of overwintering buds. For those of us who follow such things, the added excitement is that Twist-n-Shout was developed by Dr. Michael Dirr of the University of Georgia... a veritable rock star of the plant world, whose widely respected research and shared information form the basis of many a gardener's or plantsman's opinion ("Manual of Woody Landscape Plants," etc). Parentage is Hydrangea macrophylla 'Lady in Red' and Hydrangea m. 'Penny Mac'.

Here are the details ~ Prefers partial shade. Flowers all season long, with repeat blooms. As with other hydrangeas, blossom color varies... pink blooms in alkaline soil/blue blooms in acidic soil. Watering: keep soil moist. Feeding: slow release fertilizer in spring, no feeding after August 15th. Height & Spread: 3-5' / 3-5' Other: Attractive large green foliage, turning burgundy red in autumn. Has a rounded overall shape. Zone hardiness: Zones 4-9.

Hydrangea macrophylla Endless Summer® Twist-n-Shout™ ~ truly a new plant to get you dancing with anticipation... something about which we gardeners can all "twist and shout!"

A popular predecessor: Blushing Bride

[Botanical Name: Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blushing Bride' (PP17, 169)
Common Name: Endless Summer® Blushing Bride Hydrangea]

Endless Summer® The Original

[Hydrangea macrophylla 'Bailmer' (PP15, 298)]

(Thanks to Bailey Nurseries/Endless Summer™ Hydrangea
sites for photos and details.)

Hakonechloa macra ‘Nicolas’ PPAF

Hardy in Zones 5 – 9, growing 8-16" high. This grass thrives in full sun and well-drained, moderately moist soil. From breeder Bruno Carpentier comes this hybrid with solid green arching leaves that take on orange and red tones in the autumn adding even more interest. The colder it is, the more color you get!

Ornamental grasses bring amazing substance and texture, enhancing other plants and contributing a beauty all their own. Now that you're about to "twist and shout" this winter day away, at the thought of that new hydrangea, bask in the heat of this fiery new grass, sure to add spice and pizazz to any landscape.

NOTES FROM THE GARDEN SHED...

PHOTO: COURTESY POST WOODWORKING

(Sheds on display at Corliss Bros.... garden storage with style!)

Armchair gardening concludes!
Time to put the finishing touches on those
garden plans and landscape designs.
And time to start gardening, in earnest...

•Right plant/right place ~ Available light, soil type, drainage, exposure, topography... all must come under scrutiny, whether you're planning new gardens, major renovations or simply planting a single specimen. Do not set yourself up to fail. Be honest in assessing your proposed planting site. Example: Your new lilac will not thrive in the sour, low-phosphorus soil of that semi-shaded spot by the garage... choose another plant. That lilac you've been coveting, needs full sun and well-drained soil, with a higher pH than many of your landscape plants require... annual applications of balanced fertilizer, rock phosphate or superphosphate and pelletized lime (or wood ash) are usually indicated for that lilac to flourish.

•Soil Testing ~ Whether it's a lilac, rhododendron, shade tree, vegetable garden, lawn or flower border, soil fertility and pH (acidity/alkalinity) are determined by a soil test. Soil test kits for the home gardener will provide a good indication about such factors in your landscape and you can make necessary adjustments, according to the results, based on the requirements of the plants you plan to cultivate. Plants already under cultivation, not performing to their full potential, will benefit from adjustments made, based on such soil tests. For more complete, advanced testing, consider sending samples to your local County Extension agent. In this area of New England, our best resource is UMASS (University of Massachusetts, Amherst), Department of Plant and Soil Sciences ~ just click on that link for their website and complete list of services, fees and instructions.

•Planting procedures ~ Once you've determined that the site is appropriate for the proposed plant, garden, lawn, etc., and you're willing to provide whatever yearly maintenance is necessary for success, the next logical and most important step is planting procedure. For complete instructions, whether you're installing balled and burlapped plants, or container-grown specimens, click on the Corliss Bros. website ~ it's a new site, under construction, so come back often for new developments. Click on the Corliss catalog (available soon) cover in my sidebar (catalog pdf will download), then scroll down for the correct procedures. One of the most common reasons for plant failure is planting too deeply... closely followed by over-mulching (also, direct contact between mulch and trunk) and improper watering techniques. Always ask before installation, if you're at all unsure!

•Plant Selection ~ While planting of woody ornamentals occurs from early spring through November, and selection remains strong throughout the season, there are instances where the widest variety selection exists in the spring... fruit trees, small fruits (raspberries, grapes, etc.) and, to a lesser extent, dogwoods, birch, Japanese maples and dwarf and unusual conifers. The widest selection of roses occurs in mid-May, which is also when annuals and hanging baskets are widely available. Late March/early April finds the sales yard starting to fill up with woody ornamentals and perennials starting to populate the bedding department. As with all outdoor endeavors in New England, everything is weather-dependent, so a generous dash of patience goes a long way!

•Seed Starting ~ Most seed packets will list the number of weeks required, from sowing seed to transplanting outdoors. For instance, tomatoes need only about six weeks. Our "safe date" for transplanting is May 30th, though most years mid-May is OK... beyond danger of frost. Therefore, late March to mid-April (I prefer only a 4-6 week indoor start... much longer, and plants tend to be leggy and take longer to adjust outdoors) is actually ideal for starting tomatoes, marigolds and other fast-growers. Take advantage of light, seed starting blends, milled sphagnum, full-spectrum plant lights, heated seedling mats, peat pellets, trays fitted with inserts and clear domes for that greenhouse effect. Plan to harden-off your seedlings (allow about a week) before transplanting outdoors - gradually exposing them to stronger light and wind (beware those chilly nights, however!). Scroll down to "Vegetables" for more timing.

•Cuttings ~ Take cuttings from stock geraniums and pot them up, after sturdy roots develop. Rooting hormone and bottom heat (the same heating mat that encourages seed germination) will hasten the rooting procedure. Your stock plants will benefit from the pruning and reward you with fuller growth and more blooms. Your rooted cuttings, set out in late May or early June, will beautify beds and containers all summer, at considerable savings!

Trays and inserts, often with a shallow dome,
are commonly used for seed starting. Your seed
mix blend should be light and fast-draining...
usually a blend of milled peat, perlite and
vermiculite. I like to cover seeds with milled
sphagnum, to cut down on "damping-off."

This seed starting kit utilizes Jiffy 7® peat pellets
as the growing medium - convenient, space-saving
units. Like peat pots, they break down in the soil,
once transplantation is complete. Helpful hint: Slit
the surrounding mesh, as you transplant outdoors.

Finally! At long last! Manufacturers must have heard the pleas of gardeners, everywhere. While an unvented, shallow dome is satisfactory for only the briefest time, we now find a substantial dome that provides the necessary height for growing seedlings, or to accommodate cuttings that are slow to root-in. You can turn any 22" x 11" plastic tray into a miniature greenhouse. No more trying to prop open the base for ventilation, since two separate vents on top easily dial open to various settings.

Provide essential light - more reliable than sunny windows, with you turning the trays 180º everyday. Simply raise the light fixture on its own pulley system, as the seedlings grow, maintaining a distance of 3-4" between bulbs and seedling tops. Your seedlings will be stockier and healthier, eliminating stretching and one factor that contributes to the dreaded "damping off." (Temperature, overwatering, leaving water in the base of the tray, overly-heavy seed starting mix and improper feeding techniques are other contributing factors.) Note: Currently, our light units are hanging, not table top.
These are the full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs, available in 2' & 4' lengths, that approximate the natural daylight under which seedlings will thrive, once planted outdoors. Your light fixture (a shop light, with reflector sides works well... or the unit above) should be run for 12-14 hours per day, during daylight hours. Those seedlings and/or cuttings still need a dark, rest period at night, since we're trying to replicate nature's normal cycles.

Seedling heat mats are available in various lengths that accommodate from 1-4 (22" x 11") seedling trays. This bottom heat hastens germination and rooting, whether you're starting seeds, rooting cuttings or starting begonia tubers. Note: once seed germination is complete, remove that tray and replace with newly-sown units... your mat pays for itself, in no time! If you've never employed such aids as those above, you'll be amazed at the difference, as you give 2011 a head start.

•Starting Begonias ~ These tubers need a generous head start. March is ideal. Planted shallowly, in peat pots filled with a light potting mix, kept lightly moist and fed (only after roots start to develop) in morning sun (or filtered PM sun, or under grow lights), Begonias will be ready to set out in filtered shade, come late May.

•Bulb selection ~ In addition to Begonia tubers, you'll find other summer bulbs offered during March and April... canna, calla lily, anemone, gladiolus, dahlia, lily, among others. These are bulbs (actually tubers, corms, rhizomes or true bulbs) that are not winter or frost-hardy, are planted after danger of frost and lifted for winter storage in the fall.

•Check stored summer bulbs ~ Be sure they are still disease and insect-free... use bulb dust, if necessary - discard any rotted bulbs. Continue to keep them cool and dark until planting time. Most can be planted directly into the garden by mid-May. If dahlias are sprouting too quickly, you may need to pot them and grow them along in a sunny window, pinching back periodically for increased fullness. Transplant outside in late May and enjoy earlier blooms than ever!

•Indoor plants ~ Are breaking dormancy. It's time to resume a feeding schedule and an ideal chance to repot, if needed... perhaps readying them for a summer vacation, come late May. Check for any evidence of insect activity and control, if indicated. Often, spider mite becomes very problematic at this time and needs to be addressed, before it spreads or worsens.

•Pansies ~ Pansies, Violas, Johhny-Jump-Ups... hardy little relatives of the genus Viola that thrive in cool, and even quite cold, weather. The first spring color encountered at garden centers and a reliable signal that spring has almost sprung! They may weary during the heat of summer, but usually catch their "second wind," during the cool days of fall.

•Dormant Oil/Lime Sulfur ~ Currently unavailable, this combination product is sprayed in November, and again in March, when temps are around 40-45º for the control of insects, eggs and many diseases... probably the most important application, serving to smother these over-wintering problems, allowing us to start the season relatively free from last season's troubles. Fruit, shade and flowering trees will benefit from such precautionary applications, as will small fruits, flowering shrubs and roses. Presently, we suggest applying "All Seasons Oil", at the winter rate, for the control of such pests as scale insects, mites and aphid eggs. To control such diseases as peach leaf curl, black spot and powdery mildew, Lime Sulphur is the ideal choice. In addition to a thorough application on trunks, branches and stems, spray the surrounding soil... especially important around roses. It is not recommended to mix these two products, as plant injury will result... ask us for help with your particular dormant season control needs.

•The Big Cleanup ~ Rake and sweep away road salt and sand from roadside lawn and garden areas. Follow with your second application (the first is in late fall, as a preventative) of gypsum (this is the curative app.), at 10-15# per 100 sq.ft., to neutralize the affects of that salt. Remove winter mulch from perennials and roses. Pick up winter debris - leaves, twigs, branches - from garden and lawn areas.

•Last-chance winter pruning ~ Before fruit trees break dormancy, and while you can see the overall outline, make those important pruning decisions... shaping, thinning, removing water sprouts and suckers... if the job is too large, contact a Massachusetts certified arborist (or, the equivalent in your state). Prune grapes, as needed, before the sap starts to rise. Cut July-bearing raspberry canes to the ground (only those that bore last season... you'll see the little calyxes remaining). Prune any large limbs from pine or spruce, so wounds heal quickly, without insect or disease invasion. Likewise, the removal of large wood from shade or flowering trees (avoid tip pruning that would remove existing flower buds). Prune away any, and all, dead wood from trees and shrubs.

•Feeding ~ As soils start to warm and dry, probably late March, begin fertilization of trees, shrubs, hedges, fruits and perennials. Weather-dependent, first feeding of roses is late March/early April, as many receive their spring pruning, to remove winter-killed canes and overly-long stems. Organic, granular fertilizers, such as Plant-Tone and Holly-Tone (in combination with rock phosphate for flowering and fruiting specimens) are lightly tilled into the soil at the dripline, preferably just before a soaking rain. For established, deep-rooted trees, use the bar-feeding method - 1# of organic fertilizer & 1# of rock phosphate per inch of trunk caliper (trunk diameter, at waist-height). Deliver into a series of 4-6" deep holes, punched into the soil, around the dripline. What's a dripline? Feeder roots are located right beneath branch tips... the area from whence rain drips from the shrub or tree. We'll talk more about subsequent feedings, next month. If needed, lime to sweeten soil and gypsum to improve drainage, are applied at this time, as well.

•Lime ~ Lilacs, roses and other sweet-soil candidates are limed in spring, to raise pH to preferred levels. Wood ash is also used as a soil sweetener, with a 5-gallon bucket being equivalent to a 50# bag of lime. Lawns are limed now, as well (50# per 1,000 or 2,000 sq.ft.). In doubt? Perform a simple soil test to determine quantities. Lawns with poor drainage will also benefit from a first application of gypsum.

•Vegetables ~ Plan to incorporate large quantities of compost and/or other organic materials. You may need to wait until soils dry sufficiently, before adding these materials. Soil worked too soon, while still wet, is harmed by too-early cultivation and the texture is adversely affected. Soil should be friable. Friable? Squeeze a handful of soil, run your thumb across it and watch it crumble apart. If it stays in a wet clump, it's too soon to work in those soil amendments. This is true for any soil you propose to cultivate. Same test before planting pea seeds! If soil remains wet and cold, the traditional mid-March planting date for peas must be delayed. Onion sets, shallot sets and spinach are also planted, as soils dry and start to warm.

During March, we give an indoor start to broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, lettuce and peas. This is the month, also, for transplanting broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery and lettuce. Things to consider? Raised beds warm up sooner in spring, their height making planting and maintenance easier on the gardener. When space is limited, trellis vining veggies and/or grow them in containers.

•Compost ~ Reactivate those bins and piles! Harvest finished compost and till it into fallow beds, as soils become friable. As you gather winter debris, cut down perennial stems and gather stray autumn leaves, begin building new reserves, adding compost activator to hasten the process. As the days get longer and the sun stronger, the cycle begins anew! As always, alternate layers of wet, green material (nitrogen-rich) and dry, brown material (carbon-rich). The correct amount of moisture, aeration and heat (135º-160º, though many piles run from 105º-145º) leads to fast turn-around time for finished compost. Useful tools for compost management (OK, they're fun, as well, and a great gift for the gardener who has everything!)? A compost aerator tool, along with a compost thermometer, are great aids in maintaining a well-regulated, efficient compost pile.

•Birds ~ Mount birdhouses for spring broods. Returning migratory birds, as well as local songbirds who've not yet selected nesting sites, will soon take advantage of spring-mounted housing. The variety is amazing... houses and nesting shelves, especially designed for wrens, chickadees, bluebirds, robins, owls, wood ducks and so many local backyard favorites. It's still important to offer supplemental food sources, until natural food sources and insects are widely available, once again. During the nesting season, up to 90% of their diet consists of insects. Offer a little seed during the warm weather, if you wish... just enough to keep them in the area, for your enjoyment. They'll eat your garden insects, raise their young and provide hours of entertainment. Don't forget that clean source of water, for bathing and drinking!

•Water Conservation ~ Harness the rain! Install a rain barrel beneath your downspout and use this water in the landscape... recycling at its best.

•Last call for tool maintenance ~ Are your hand tools, long-handled tools and cutting tools all cleaned, sharpened and oiled? Including the wooden handles? Power equipment, like mowers and rototillers, should be serviced and may need a tune-up... are yours all set? Last call, before the season is upon us and technicians are too busy to take care of yours, upon short
notice!

•Edging Beds ~ A time-consuming, but necessary, chore. Be sure your bed edger is sharpened and ready to go, as soon as lawn and garden soils have dried sufficiently to accept foot traffic, without damage to soil structure.

•Spreading Bark Mulch ~ Chips, shredded, hemlock, mountain blend, valley dark... the choice is yours. Spread about 3" deep around trees and shrubs, or 1-2" deep around annuals and perennials, mulch will retain moisture, gradually break down into the soil (adding valuable organic matter) and retard weed growth. Cocoa hulls, buckwheat hulls, river stone and bark nuggets are among the bagged materials that will perform the same landscape functions. Never allow your preferred mulch to come in contact with the trunk, stems or crowns of trees, shrubs or bedding plants... always maintain a margin of bare soil around the base of each plant. Consider applying a product containing Treflan® or corn gluten, before topdressing with fresh mulch, around established plants or new plantings, but not in areas where you plan to sow seed, as these products will halt germination of all seed, not only weed seed.

•Lawns ~ As mentioned in earlier segments, once spring cleanup to remove leaves, debris and any road salt/sand accumulation is complete, lime and gypsum can be applied, if indicated. Looking ahead, April is a good month to apply your first feeding of the season.

Don't be too hasty if that first application includes a crabgrass preventative, as soils must warm sufficiently, first. If you abide by the calendar, rather than by specific spring weather conditions (each year varies, of course, and we New Englanders remember many a year where spring is almost nonexistent), your pre-emergence crabgrass control will have leached away, no longer providing much of a barrier, if any, to halt crabgrass seed germination. Remember, there are pre-emergence controls that halt all seed germination and some that allow you sow grass seed (at a higher price point). Look into corn gluten (does not differentiate between crabgrass and your grass seed), a nice safe choice around pets and children.

Take advantage of spring savings on 4-step lawn programs. Going organic? More and more folks are, these days... kinder to the family and gentler on the environment. The Espoma Company produces some fine lawn products, as does Organica®, with their 4-step all organic lawn program that can be tailored to fit your specific requirements... let us help you design your own organic program.

If power dethatching, and/or aeration, are indicated, allow soil to dry sufficiently before attempting this chore. There are some spring seasons that just remain so wet, that it's better to wait until fall, to avoid damaging the lawn. Also, turf should be established for about three years, to be tough enough to withstand these vigorous procedures. To maintain soil integrity, and lessen the chance of damaging soil texture, avoid even foot traffic if soils remain excessively wet.

Oh, yes... moles. What to do? It's too early to apply grub control, including milky spore disease (which takes a while to become established, anyway). Meanwhile, you may be finding mole or even vole (they eat roots and plants, and are primarily vegetarians, unlike moles who are insectivorous) tunnels, throughout lawn areas. Skunks, possums, raccoons and other hungry critters may show up at nocturnal lawn parties - true, they rid your lawn of the beetle grubs, but what messy, destructive guests they are! The granular Mole Max® or liquid Mole Max® are simply two forms of castor oil that drive away such critters, leaving you to deal with any grub problems on your own time table.

•A Plan of Attack ~ At the risk of sounding almost hyperbolic about pest and disease control, it is in your best interest, and that of your entire landscape, to develop a plan... to become proactive, before the growing season is upon you. Based on problems encountered over the past several seasons, as well as commonly-occurring nuisances, develop a preventative plan of pest management ~ Dormant-season applications to start the season clean... naturally-derived Serenade® or Natria® to halt the spread of many diseases, in an environmentally-sensitive manner... keeping plants healthy and well-fed, better able to stave off insect and disease assault... always turning, first, to the most effective/least aggressive solution to any problem... turning to nature for answers and solutions, wherever possible - products derived from beneficial bacteria, natural fermentation processes, soap (potassium salts of fatty acids) and food-grade oils, to name a few. For slugs and snails, turn to products containing iron phosphate, rather than metaldehyde (poisonous granules, particularly attractive to dogs, often with deadly results ~ we have chosen not to carry such products). And lastly, taking direct advantage of nature and target specific pests, by releasing natural predators such as beneficial nematodes and wasps, lacewings and ladybugs.

Got a Big To-Do List? If you're a gardener, especially in New England, you're in good company! Just take it one step at a time... it's all in the breathing! Don't get overwhelmed, this early in the season. Set up a sensible, time-squenced plan and stick to it... at least until nature sends you a curve ball, in the form of uncooperative weather, new diseases or unfamiliar insects. Delight in chores completed - rejoice in communing with nature and the peace you find in the garden - the sun on your back and the March wind in your face. There's not much room for pessimism in the garden... reality, yes - pessimism, no.

A little optimism will stand all of us in good stead, as we commence the brand new growing season. Find a spot for that 'Twist-n-Shout' Hydrangea, plant a 'Green Jewel' Echinacea, Gaillardia Commotion 'Tizzy' or get fired up over that new fiery-hued grass, Hakonechloa 'Nicholas'. Now, get out there and enjoy 2011 in the garden! [Maybe after any surprise snowstorms?]

~ finis ~

Deb Lambert ©2011
PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM CORLISS BROS. GARDEN CENTER & NURSERY!

2010-12-02T04:55:00.001-05:00

FROM "OUR HOUSE" TO YOURS...

THE STAFF OF
CORLISS BROS. GARDEN CENTER & NURSERY
EXTENDS ALL THE JOYS OF THIS HOLIDAY SEASON
TO YOU AND YOURS!

This is a season of contrasts...
From the cold frosty air of New England,
to the warmth and glow of homes decorated
with poinsettias and other tender, seasonal plants.

Let us share with you
the true beauty of the holiday season...

(This photo ©S.R. Calef 2009)

Wait ~ a truck, not a sleigh?
Did you miss Santa's big visit?
Do you enjoy vintage vehicles?
If you like Christmas poetry, with a twist,
just click here to view all the merriment!

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

May 2011 bring everyone health, happiness
and a bountiful growing season!